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[RESOLVED] Oil Light on...still have pressure?

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95strandedDSmR

10+ Year Contributor
40
0
Sep 12, 2009
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Check oil light has came on, and will not turn off. It was not on while I was driving, I turned the car off and about 30 minutes later I start it back up and the light was on.

Oil pressure normally rests at the L, when rpms rise, pressure rises to just above the first normal line. The pressure is still doing exactly that with the light on.

Check oil light use to flicker every once in a while at idle "very rough idle thanks to TB seals and Air Leaks"

Wire under the vehicle that clips onto the sending unit is still attached and seems to be attached well.

Car does have some misc oil leaks which I plan on trying to track down this saturday hopefully.

Would this be telling me the Oil pump is bad?
 
Checked the oil. The oil is full. When the rpms go up the light is now staying on no matter what. As soon as i start the car the light is now on full time. I just dont understand why the light would be on, if the oil is full and I still have oil pressure.
 
I guess to simplify my overly annoying detailed question. Does the sending unit control the oil pressure guage and the light? or just the light only? If only the light..i'll swap the units tomarrow from my extra motor.
 
There are two senders. One is for the idiot light and the other is for the gauge. The one for the light has a flimsy connection on the sender (just a spade connection) and it often falls off, triggering the idiot light. Look under the car on the driver's side under the filter housing and see if there is a black wire hanging down and a sending unit that has a connection on the end but no wire connected.

That's what I'd check. I may be remembering incorrectly, but the idiot light sender points down at the road and a bit toward the rear of the car. The wire just pops on (and off...by itself sometimes).

EDIT: Found a picture:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/att...-pressure-sensor-wiring-oilpressuresender.jpg

Which means I was wrong. The angled sending unit is for the gauge. The other one (right side of picture) is for the idiot light and it scews on. Might be the wire broke or the sender's bad.
 
Wonderfull thank you very much, I'll swap it out tomarrow. I was gonna change the other one thinking that was it. I would have been quite frustrated LOL. Hopefully it fixes my problem so I can return to my damn boost leaks with my new seals an gaskets for the TB.
 
Probably a faulty oil pressure switch or the wire came off. Just a tip for you, and please read this before attempting to put a new switch in:
Get some thread sealant paste (available at auto zone).
Put some on the threads of the new switch.
When threading the new switch into the oil filter housing, whatever you do: DO NOT over torque it! I learned this the hard way. The threads in the housing are slightly tapered farther in, and if over tightened, you will crack the housing and have a hell of an oil leak. I believe the torque spec is around 7 ft. lbs.
 
I have something else to ad. If you have a 2g and you removed the t25 and decided to feed from the head whenever you block off the feed from the OFH sometimes it will block the flow to the sendor. This happened in my case so I just removed it. As long as you have a good functioning gauge there is no need for the "dummy" light.
 
Great, thanks guys! Swapped the sender unit out and now the light is out an all is good! Time to start fixing the TB leaks and small oil leaks!

Glad it worked out. If you could help out the moderators of the forum, edit the title of the thread and add "RESOLVED: " in front of the existing title (then folks know that a solution of some sort is described in the thread).
 
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