[RESOLVED] Drive Shaft U-Joint

[knochgoon24]

So, my car just go inspected and it apparently needs a new second U-joint for the front drive shaft? Any idea where to get one? What's the part number? CAPS and my computer don't get along.

 

[LTUDSM]

call JNZ Tuning, they help ya out 215-997-6850

 

[daren_p]

OEM is the best way to go, then you don't have to worry about breaking them like some of the cheap aftermarket ones. The OEM ones run around $60 a piece from the online dealers, that you get the best rates from. Though I think I know of a better deal, try part # MR470072 this should be for the transfer case recall kit so its should include a new U joint installed in a new yoke. You can just remove the ujoint from the yoke, if thats not the location you need it for. Normally a yoke is around the $40 mark I believe, & this whole kit comes in ~$30.

 

[knochgoon24]

Ok, so after much research (+4 hours on Google) I've managed to track down this info.

Mistu #: MB154554

Through Jnztuning

• Just that part: $70.86
• The "Transfer Case Recall Kit MR470072 " : $31.62

Through Rockville Mitsubishi

• Just that part: $73.14
• Recall Kit: $32.64

Through Mistubish Parts

• Just that part: $68.58
• Recall Kit: $30.60

NAPA#: PUJ398 $24.49
Rockauto: Click part # search, "PRECISION" for manufacturer, drivetrain as part group, part# 398. $14.47

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Autozone #: 1-1557 $9.99

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

MitsubishiGraveyard.com : $55 for a U-joint and yoke kit shipped

And here's the info listed on the NAPA site:

• Bearing Type & Size : 4 Grooved, 0.985 "
• Fit / ID Dimensions : 2.53 " Over Bearings
• Kit Contents : 1 U-Joint, 4 Lock Rings

Oh, and Mitsu refers to the U-joint as a "Spider Kit".
The Recall Kit includes a u-joint and a yoke. If you need the u-joint for another location, just press out the joint and put it in the correct spot.

For further info (Pic out of Haynes):

• The u-joint can be used in any spot marked with the #3.
• The yoke included with the recall kit is #5.
• A u-joint will include parts #1 and #2 with it.

EDIT AGAIN:
Also, I found (off Rockauto.com) that this joint should work on...
CHEVROLET TRACKER (1998 - 2004)
DODGE CHALLENGER (1981 - 1983)
DODGE COLT (1971 - 1979)
DODGE COLT CAROUSEL (1975 - 1977)
DODGE COLT CUSTOM (1977 - 1979)
DODGE COLT GT (1973 - 1977)
DODGE D50 PICKUP (1979 - 1982)
DODGE RAIDER (1987 - 1989)
DODGE RAM 50 (1985 - 1993)
DODGE RAM 50 CUSTOM (1983 - 1989)
DODGE RAM 50 ROYAL (1983 - 1985)
DODGE RAM 50 SE (1990 - 1993)
DODGE RAM 50 SPORT (1983 - 1989)
GEO TRACKER (1989 - 1997)
MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX (1983 - 1994)
MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX LWB (1989 - 1992)
MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX S (1983 - 1984)
MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX SPX (1986 - 1989)
MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX SWB (1989 - 1996)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO (1983 - 2004)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO LIMITED (2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO LS (1989 - 1996)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO RS (1991 - 1993)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO SPORT (1987 - 2004)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO SPORT ES (1997 - 1998)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO SPORT LS (1997 - 1998)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO SPORT XLS (1997 - 1998)
MITSUBISHI MONTERO SR (1992 - 1993)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 2004
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER LIMITED (2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER LS (2005 - 2006)
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SE 2006
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER XLS 2005
MITSUBISHI VAN 1987
PLYMOUTH ARROW (1976 - 1980)
PLYMOUTH ARROW GS (1976 - 1979)
PLYMOUTH ARROW GT (1976 - 1979)
PLYMOUTH ARROW PICKUP (1979 - 1982)
PLYMOUTH COLT DL (1989 - 1990)
PLYMOUTH COLT VISTA (1985 - 1991)
PLYMOUTH COLT VISTA CUSTOM 1986
PLYMOUTH SAPPORO (1981 - 1983)
SUZUKI GRAND VITARA (1999 - 2004)
SUZUKI GRAND VITARA EX 2005
SUZUKI GRAND VITARA LX 2005
SUZUKI GRAND VITARA XL-7 (2001 - 2004)
SUZUKI SAMURAI (1986 - 1990)
SUZUKI SAMURAI JA (1991 - 1993)
SUZUKI SAMURAI JL (1991 - 1995)
SUZUKI SAMURAI JS 1991
SUZUKI SIDEKICK (1989 - 1993)
SUZUKI SIDEKICK JA (1996 - 1997)
SUZUKI SIDEKICK JL 1991
SUZUKI SIDEKICK JLX (1990 - 1995)
SUZUKI SIDEKICK JS (1990 - 1998)
SUZUKI SIDEKICK JX (1990 - 1998)
SUZUKI SIDEKICK SPORT (1996 - 1998)
SUZUKI VITARA (1999 - 2004)
SUZUKI VITARA JA 2002
SUZUKI XL-7 2006
SUZUKI XL-7 EX 2005
SUZUKI XL-7 LX 2005
SUZUKI XL-7 PREMIUM 2006

 

[Dallas J]

Thanks for doing that work for me , my car is about in desperate need of some new joints.

On a side note, this whole kit is cheaper than the u-joint seems to be a huge indicator that manufaturers just roll the dice when pricing stuff.

 

[knochgoon24]

Actually, the kit is from a recall. I've heard that they can't make as much profit on it because of that.

 

[Whophlungpoo]

If it helps, I believe the Precision number is #398. I know O'Reilly's uses Precision U-joints.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Also, make sure you pick up the carrier bearings while you're at it. While you have the u-joints off and the driveshaft disassembled you can replace the carrier bearings really easily. Nothing sucks more than to do work twice when one of those suckers go bad.

 

[eclipsh]

Just found this thread. Thanks for all the hard work! Thought I'd update. The O'Reilly's Precision #398 Costs about $18 and my local middle-of-nowhere Colorado shop had one in stock.

 

[99vipereater]

So I replaced my u-joints with a precision 398 from rockauto for about $15 a peice. When I drove the car I got a vibration at 50+ So I took the driveline off and I believe the culprit is the snap rings that come with the precision joint. So I picked up the duralast joint from Autozone and did some measuring. What I found out is as fallows.
OEM
Joint from cap to cap 2.530
Snap rings:
Silver .050
Bronze .051
Black .052
Darker bronze .053

Precision #398
Joint cap to cap 2.530
Snap rings .047

Duralast 1-1227
Joint cap to cap 2.350
Snap rings .050

Conclusion I'm using the precision bearing with the duralast snap rings to match oem hopping it will fix the vibration.

 

[knochgoon24]

Interesting. I've don't have any issues with vibration. That joint is still holding strong.

 

[johnovision27]

So I replaced my u-joints with a precision 398 from rockauto for about $15 a peice. When I drove the car I got a vibration at 50+

Now, when you say vibrations, did you car feel like it was in a paint shaker when driving at higher speeds and while accelerating?
My car vibrates VERY BADLY at speeds over 40mph, and even more so while accelerating, but not at all while braking against the engine. The tires seem to be in balance (at least the front 2) because there is no shimmy or vibration coming from the steering wheel, just from the whole car.

Just wondering if it is possibly my u-joint.
Thanks in advance.

 

[eclipsh]

Now, when you say vibrations, did you car feel like it was in a paint shaker when driving at higher speeds and while accelerating?
My car vibrates VERY BADLY at speeds over 40mph, and even more so while accelerating, but not at all while braking against the engine. The tires seem to be in balance (at least the front 2) because there is no shimmy or vibration coming from the steering wheel, just from the whole car.

Just wondering if it is possibly my u-joint.
Thanks in advance.

That could be any number of things. I'd suggest starting a help thread elsewhere or digging for other threads on it.

I've been using the 398 bearings on my daily driver with no issues for the past six months. I don't do a lot of drag launches on dry pavement but I just had the drive shaft back out to replace the carrier bearings and all three joints were still in great shape. I've probably put less than 3k miles on them though.

 

[talondave]

Don't ever go with Napa U-joints!!! This is what happens when you do!
Watch half of my driveshaft fly out from under my car.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/l29S4f0keC4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[99vipereater]

Now, when you say vibrations, did you car feel like it was in a paint shaker when driving at higher speeds and while accelerating?
My car vibrates VERY BADLY at speeds over 40mph, and even more so while accelerating, but not at all while braking against the engine. The tires seem to be in balance (at least the front 2) because there is no shimmy or vibration coming from the steering wheel, just from the whole car.

Just wondering if it is possibly my u-joint.
Thanks in advance.

My vibration was related to speed didn't go away when I was breaking and wasn't supper bad could still drive the car. The snap rings were far to thin allowing some play at high speeds.

 

[johnovision27]

Thanks for the reply. I'll be starting a new thread, but my suspicions were with the ujoints, so I figured I'd ask.

Thanks.

 

[knochgoon24]

After using it for almost 3 years (and 40k miles) the joint started to develop some play.

I'm not so sure I'd suggest going with that u-joint after such a short lifespan. OEM is probably the way to go.

 

[HIGHPSI4]

Yea, I have some after market ones that I am thinking of replacing to OEM. Any thing better than OEM?