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Replacing rod bearings

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krazydbiker

Probationary Member
18
0
Apr 11, 2007
Torrington, Connecticut
Well, my rear balance shaft bearing blew, and the rod bearings ate a majority of the metal shavings so I want to replace them The crank is fine, no scratches, and the endcaps and rods arent beat up, just the bearings have copper colored metal burned into the back of them. Anything special I should know about replacing them? Just pop them out and put the new ones in? And I bought a balance shaft eliminator kit to go along with it.:thumb:
 
I vote extensive oil flush first.
Then flush again.
Then change the bearings.
Then flush again.
I would also install an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge.Just incase and keep an eye on it.
You could the rite piece of metal in the rite spot in your oil pump.
Just a precaution tho I guess
 
If the motors out I would do a fresh rebuild.
*oil pump
*water pump
*new bearings
*new seals and gaskets
*check engine bore and all internals
-Donny
 
Yes. Don't take any chances on haveing metal shavings in the motor still. If you have the funds, try to replace as much as you can to be safe in the future. (nessecary things)
 
Let me tell you a story about a customer and his Miata, One day the phone rings and Mr. Miata ask if I will work on his turbo miata "it has no oil pressure" ofcourse is the reply. Long story short the instructions had him drill his aluminum oil pan on the car then flush the shavings out with kerosene. Um we replaced 2 oil pumps (supplied by turbo company) and spent 20 plus hours saving Mr. Miata's Miata :). My point is why inflict such hardship on yourself? Pull the motor and do a very basic rebuild just so you know its OK.

DJ
89 Mirage turbo 333,000 miles stock original motor 330whp
 
How do you suppose the balance shaft bearing shrapnel got to "just" the rod bearings?

Chunks fall and are flushed from the bearing journal by oil pressure. They're washed to the sump, mostly to fall to the bottom of the pan, but some may be small and light enough to make it to the pickup screen, and might get sucked into the oil pump. From there, they go to the filter. End of their story. The steel bits will damage the oil pump, causing scoring on the housing where they're scraped by on the edge of the impeller, and if a particle happens to get trapped between the pump teeth, it could conceivably try to damage their faces, but it hydrodynamics at hand would mostly prevent that.
I can't envision how you'd get copper embedded on the backs of your bearing inserts.

It more sounds like the wear surfaces in that engine are beyond their service limits, and a complete rebuild is in order.
 
Woah this post came out of no where, yeah picked up another engine to throw in for now, 7 bolt with 80k on it for close to nothing, good compression, 169-171 across all 4, pulled out of a running car. I know I should have gotten a 6 bolt but i just want the car back on the road, im planning on buying 6 in the mean time and putting some money into it. Thanks for all the input though.
 
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