The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Replaced Block After Spun Bearing...Not Starting?!?!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

b4christ15

15+ Year Contributor
212
0
Oct 21, 2004
Randolph, New Jersey
I sent my car to a mechanic to replace my short block after I spun a rod bearing. I picked up a used short block in good condition from a local DSMer, ordered a BSEK from Slowboy, and let the shop do the work. Now, my car has had a 6 bolt swap since June 2005 and has ran fine up until it spinning the bearing. The mechanic got the block installed, but could not get the car to start. My understanding is something wasn't hooked back up right in the CAS of ignition system. I gave him the wiring diagrams for wiring up a 6 bolt CAS in a 2g, but that didnt help. He said the block is bad and that I would have to fix it. So I said forget it and took the car back. Now I'm stuck and don't know where to start to begin the diagnosing process. Does anyone have any clue where to start to try and see whats causing the car not to run? I was told it was getting injector pulse, but I'm not sure if it's getting spark. Any ideas are greatly appreciated as Im getting desperate. Thanks :thumb:
 
Take a look at the middle timing cover towards the FPR where the cam sensor plug is. It's entirely possible that the mechanic installed the A/C connector on the cam sensor by mistake and mixed up the plugs since they're the same color and shape. The correct plug for the cam sensor is the shorter of the two. Please don't ask me how I know this or I'll have to humiliate myself further.

Give it a shot and see if that works. I know on mine, I would get fuel to the rail, but no spark and no fuel past the injectors. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

Andy

P.S. If this doesn't apply to a 6 bolt swap on a 2G then I apologize.
 
andymoraitis said:
Take a look at the middle timing cover towards the FPR where the cam sensor plug is. It's entirely possible that the mechanic installed the A/C connector on the cam sensor by mistake and mixed up the plugs since they're the same color and shape. The correct plug for the cam sensor is the shorter of the two. Please don't ask me how I know this or I'll have to humiliate myself further.

Give it a shot and see if that works. I know on mine, I would get fuel to the rail, but no spark and no fuel past the injectors. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.

Andy

P.S. If this doesn't apply to a 6 bolt swap on a 2G then I apologize.

Thanks for the help, but the shorter one is plugged into the CAS. Any other ideas?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top