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Replace the AC tensioner Pulley Bearing

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So if you are like me, you are tired of your AC pulley squeaking and squealing when it rains and that slight squeak while the engine is idling. I checked with the stealership and they want almost $200 for the pulley and bracket replacement. I of course refused to pay this. I had a second set from another car and decided to play with the pulley to seek an answer.

My first answer was to pull apart the bearing and see if I could repack it. It is a sealed bearing. In the end, it was a cheap mistake. So I decided to start seeing if I could find a replacement bearing for the pulley. First stop, Google. It turns out that there is no such thing as a 6301DUX bearing but lots of results from 6301.

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Starting there I was able to identify a possible replacement for the beaing. A 6301 2RS bearing meets the same size requirements as ours does. But being unsure, I also noticed that the bearing was an NSK bearing. I called them and got the replacement model… 6301DDU. I called around to some shops in my area until I found one for about $11.50. When I checked the model number of the NSK replacement, it was 63012RSLC3.

Here is some good info on the bearing if you are interested.
http://www.smbbearings.com/popular_metric_bearings.htm

As well as check out NSK for information:
Ball Bearings and Roller Bearings l NSK Americas | NSK



This thread is to show you how to replace the AC tensioner pulley bearing. To start out you will need the following tools:

• ¼ ratchet with 12 mm socket
• ¼ long extension with 14mm socket *
• 14mm wrench
• Snap-ring pliers **
• 13mm socket or similar
• Hammer
• Steel brush and cleaning supplies ***
• Piece of string

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(*) I used a screwdriver with a ¼ bit and a short extension
(**) I used small stub nosed pliers. More difficult and not recommended if possible
(***) I used brakleen and q-tips to get all the old grease and grim off, polished up by the steel brush


Parts you will need:
• 6301 2RSLC3 bearing (NSK 6301DDU)

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The first step is to remove the pulley bracket from the engine bay. Use the 14mm wrench to loosen the bolt holding the pulley in place (red). Once broken loose, use the 14mm socket on the extension and loose the tension bolt (green). Once sufficiently loose, we need to remove the 3 bracket bolts (blue) with the 12mm socket on the ¼ ratchet. You may need to move some of the hoses around but it will remove all 3. Once 2 of the 3 have been removed, either use a piece of string to hold the bracket when the last piece is removed or the whole assembly will fall to the ground usually.

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Once the bracket has been removed, you must remove the nut holding the pulley to the bracket as well as completely unthread the tension bolt from the assembly.

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Remove the shield and adjustment arm from the bolt and slide the bolt out from the opposite direction

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Now take your snap-ring pliers to remove the snap-ring from its groove.

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Take the 13mm socket and place it in the small opening of the pulley and place the pulley on a hard surface and take the hammer and begin to push the pulley out. Once it goes down as far as it can, take your hand and cradle the edges on your fingers and tap the bearing you the rest of the way. It will fall into your palm.

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Now clean all the pulley pieces and the bracket to whatever you desire before assembly. I cleaned everything with brakleen and q-tips to get all the old build up off everything and used a steal brush to polish stuff up as well as clean out the bolt threads.

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Once clean, take the new bearing and place in the pulley. I put the pulley face down and hit the backside of the pulley evenly until the bearing was flush with the pulley, I then took the 13mm socket to push it down the rest of the way until seated against the backside of the pulley.

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Replace the snap-ring

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Place the bolt through the bearing, replace the shield and adjuster arm then place back onto the bracket and replace the nut to lightly tightened.

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Replace the tension bolt and screw the pulley up maybe a quarter of the way. Place a piece of string through the center near the tension bolt to lower into the engine bay. Use the pulley to hook the belt before attempting to bolt the bracket back up. Once “hooked”, replace the bolts and tighten them down. (I do not know the torque specs but firmly so they do not come loose. Then tighten the tension bolt until the belt is at proper tension. Lastly, tighten up the nut to keep the pulley firmly in place.

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Job complete!

**I do not take any responsibility for damages done to yourself or to your vehicle as the procedures listed above are from my own experience. If you decide to follow these steps, do so at your own risk.**
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Updated URLs/Info for 2014:

Here is some good info on the bearing if you are interested.
Old: http://www.smbbearings.com/popular_metric_bearings.htm
New: http://www.smbbearings.com/smbnew/popular-metric-bearings.html
Attached PDF Specs for 6301-2RS Bearing

As well as check out NSK for information:
Old: Ball Bearings and Roller Bearings l NSK Americas | NSK
New: http://www.nskamericas.com/cps/rde/xchg/na_en/hs.xsl/deep-groove-ball-bearings.html
Attached PDF for replacement information (Page 13 of 35 for 6301 bearing info)
 

Attachments

  • SMBBearing_6301-2RS.pdf
    106.1 KB · Views: 448
  • NSKBallBearingsWeb.pdf
    1.6 MB · Views: 256
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