Replace or Rebuild Engine?

[Sterkcid]

I am about to buy a 1998 eclipse gsx. So far this is what he has done to it
- Greddy front mount Intercooler, mhi evo3 16g turbo in good condition, hallman pro boost controller, fic 650cc injectors and aem uego wideband. Has a basically new act 2100 clutch and pressure plate, all new coolant lines and new clutch master cylinder. -
Now here is my problem. I am wanting to learn more about the DSM motors, and modify this car. I dont know if I should either rebuild or replace the engine. It seems to be running fine, but it does have 180k on it. I dont want to modify my car then the engine messes up. I want my internals to be completely sound. Should I order a kit and have it rebuilt or just buy a used engine?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[finesse49ers]

If there's nothing wrong with the engine then leave it alone. Do compression tests, leak down tests and boost leak tests. If the compression tests show numbers within spec then you're fine. No need to mess with and remove a good running engine unless you're ready to build an engine to make some real power.

 

[Sterkcid]

No need to mess with and remove a good running engine unless you're ready to build an engine to make some real power.

That's what I am planning to do, but learn in the process. Current daily is a lexus rx330 (debated on making it a sleeper since it already has 240hp stock) I do not have a list of mods quite yet, but I dont know if I should install them on internals that have 180k on them.

 

[BogusSVO]

If it looks good from a leak down test and/or compression test, Even with 180k on it. Run it.

Depending what mods you have to install, you may be just fine. As long it is with in reason.

The stock bottom end has gone to 400 HP +

So as long as the boost level is kept in check, say around 20-25psi, run the engine until you have a failure, then build it.

But if you have a few grand burning a hole in your pocket for a rebuild, and you want H beams and forged pistons, then pull it and build.

But if all you want to do is hone the block and install rings and bearings and gaskets for a few hundred, test it first.

 

[Sterkcid]

If it looks good from a leak down test and/or compression test, Even with 180k on it. Run it.

Depending what mods you have to install, you may be just fine. As long it is with in reason.

The stock bottom end has gone to 400 HP +

So as long as the boost level is kept in check, say around 20-25psi, run the engine until you have a failure, then build it.

But if you have a few grand burning a hole in your pocket for a rebuild, and you want H beams and forged pistons, then pull it and build.

But if all you want to do is hone the block and install rings and bearings and gaskets for a few hundred, test it first.

Thank you! That really helped I think for the time being, my goal is 350hp. I figured I will put a couple extra grand into it, and I will reach that goal. With what it has now; what do you think would be best to install to get the best results?

 

[Cdc1221]

Since i dont see anything on that list for tuning, ecmlink wins the oscar...

 

[BogusSVO]

A good supported tuning solution, Link seems to be the common choice.

First is all the preventive maintenance, Timing belt, fluids, filters.

Not as sexy as go fast parts, but still needed.

 

[BowDownRacing]

If you have a reliable daily already it doesnt hurt to build this up little by little. I have found this forum to be key to me learning what I need to build my DSM. I gurantee you will ove you car a million times more once you do some upgrades. I have noticed a simple cam and breathing system can change your car dramatically without breaking the bank or risking the chance of hurting your motor. For daily put some 272s with a decent intake manifold and tb get an engine management with some injectors and see what it can do. I would suggest head studs but if you arent as mechanically inclined to do it yourself search here maybe someone in your area would be willing to show you a thing or two.

 

[GSXftw]

Just like to point out the stock longblock record of 500 whp and 10.30 1/4 mile was with 200k+. I have 210 on mine. Thats 6 bolt though I dunno about 7, but point is miles isnt everything

 

[Sterkcid]

If it looks good from a leak down test and/or compression test, Even with 180k on it. Run it.

Depending what mods you have to install, you may be just fine. As long it is with in reason.

The stock bottom end has gone to 400 HP +

So as long as the boost level is kept in check, say around 20-25psi, run the engine until you have a failure, then build it.

But if you have a few grand burning a hole in your pocket for a rebuild, and you want H beams and forged pistons, then pull it and build.

But if all you want to do is hone the block and install rings and bearings and gaskets for a few hundred, test it first.

I havent run the "Leak down test" But on the compression test my result were :
Cyl 1 and 3 - 170
Cyl 4 - 175
Cyl 2 - 150
He said that I shouldnt notice a huge difference until I hit about 120. I dont think I am going to mod this engine. I am going to wait and rebuild it. He also said that besides the oil leaks through out, the car was in great shape for it age and yeat. I have a feeling he may have missed some stuff because he didnt mention anything about the CEL light coming on.
Also I am running 18 psi

 

[T is for TURBO]

How are you tuning those 650s?

 

[Sterkcid]

How are you tuning those 650s?

I havent tuned anything yet. I just bought the car Sunday, and I have been slammed at work.

 

[Firsts tuner]

Someone chime in and correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the max allowable difference in cyl pressure 15 psi. Like mentioned before get a tuning solution if you don't have one already. Since you say you're running 18 psi I assume you have a good quality boost gauge already. That's a step in the right direction.
After a quick search I realize its 15% not 15 psi. So you're right on the verge I think with 26.25 allowable from highest to lowest compression reading. Assuming it was done correctly.( that was a disclaimer for me not a jab for you)

 

[erkitner]

As stated before, I wouldn't do anything until you have a failure. My suggestions is that when you do run into one, do a 6 Bolt block/2G Head build. Just to eliminate the walking issue the 7-Bolts are plagued with.

Keeping the boost in check was a good call as well.

I did a 6 Bolt/2G head in my car and it only has 421 miles on the build running 8 psi until break-in is complete. Then back up to 18-20 psi. Got some HARD pulling power without the worry of overboosting and seriously messing something up. 18-20, in my opinion is plenty for your setup, which is nearly identical to mine. I think the only difference is my BC272s.

Cheers.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I havent tuned anything yet. I just bought the car Sunday, and I have been slammed at work.

Well, if you don't have a tuning solution for those injectors, you can kiss your compression goodbye, as all you're doing is running pig rich and washing the cylinders and fouling plugs. Throw some 450cc injectors back in, and turn the boost down. You should never run bigger injectors unless you have some way of controlling then.

Unless you have an AFC or somthing that the previous owner installed that you're not telling us about.

 

[Sterkcid]

Well, if you don't have a tuning solution for those injectors, you can kiss your compression goodbye, as all you're doing is running pig rich and washing the cylinders and fouling plugs. Throw some 450cc injectors back in, and turn the boost down. You should never run bigger injectors unless you have some way of controlling then.

Unless you have an AFC or somthing that the previous owner installed that you're not telling us about.

Im not saying it hasnt been tuned. Im 99% positive he tuned it before he sold it to me. I was saying "I" havent tuned it yet. Im not running rich. Ive had multiple people check, look over the engine, and take it out on the road. Everything has checked out. Now what I am doing is research on the engine, and learning about the car before I do any modifications. I bought this car to basicly be a project car and learn about dsm engines. Mainly because here in greenville everying drives ####ing hondas.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Well, if you don't have a tuning solution for those injectors, you can kiss your compression goodbye, as all you're doing is running pig rich and washing the cylinders and fouling plugs. Throw some 450cc injectors back in, and turn the boost down. You should never run bigger injectors unless you have some way of controlling then.

Unless you have an AFC or somthing that the previous owner installed that you're not telling us about.

The car has been tuned at some point, I didn't get a chance to look at the computer but I couldn't connect my laptop with ecmlink but my BT adapter connected no problem. So I'm guesting its chipped. Its a very poor tune though.
It has a 16g but is as slow as a t25. No power. and it knocks very easy. Its not heat soaking, it has a decent fmic. I don't know who tuned it but the tune def sucks. Wb works fine.
Definitely need to open ecu and,see whats in it. Cel and boost gauge show knock.

 

[LarryJoe]

Why would you all steer him towards link? He has a 98. He should get a tactrix cable and tune with ecuflash. Much cheaper than link and has great features.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Why would you all steer him towards link? He has a 98. He should get a tactrix cable and tune with ecuflash. Much cheaper than link and has great features.

This is something that didn't cross my mind when I was looking at it. and I wasn't steering him towards link. But I agree that he needs to get a, tactrix cable to able to check out whats going because whatever tune us on it sucks. And I don't think he is boosting 18. His gauge is a diesal gauge and rests on five and goes to around 23_25. I don't think its accurate.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Why would you all steer him towards link? He has a 98. He should get a tactrix cable and tune with ecuflash. Much cheaper than link and has great features.

Link is the common grounds. While I am a huge fan of it, I currently run ECUflash with my 98. It has a less user-friendly interface, however, and Evoscan isn't exactly the most reliable piece of software to log with. A quick google search can net you a decades worth of material to read about the various versions and their inability to maintain connection, choppy logs, etc. When it works, it works amazingly. When it doesn't you're left stumped.

Link is easier to use in my opinion and is well worth the money. Ecuflash/Evoscan is also a great combination and easily available at a fraction of the cost of Link. It's really up to the user and what they feel like dealing with. However, most people to stick to what's easier to use and Link is byfar an easier and more complete all-in-one package.

 

[LarryJoe]

I've stuck to the early version of Evoscan and it's always worked perfect for me. Ecuflash is really easy to tune with as well. It just takes getting use to.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I've stuck to the early version of Evoscan and it's always worked perfect for me. Ecuflash is really easy to tune with as well. It just takes getting use to.

Which version? I'm actually quite curious about that. 2.7 is the only one that will ever pick up for me, but it's very poor.