Repalcing head gasket. What else should I do?

[Kinetik_tsi]

I am replacing the headgasket in my car because it went (water in oil). I was wondering, what other things should I replace while the head is off? Do I have to replace the intake manifold gasket, the exhaust manifold gasket, and valve cover gasket? or are they reusable? I have previously replaced the water pump so there is no need to replace it. I have $1000 for a budget so I don't have much room for upgrades. Advice?

P.S. I have never disassebled the engine myself, so keep that in mind. (I have a hayne's manual )

 

[BUCK]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99037&highlight=head+remove

Helluva Thread.

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

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Dang, all that for under a grand? I dunno, too much. Maybe just gaskets but not rods and pistons. I just want to replace the gasket, I guess I am too scared because I am noob. But if I do, I'll make sure to refer to that thread *adds to favorites*.

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[awd4g63]

Have the head inspected. I took mine and got it inspected, decked, had the valve stem seals replaced, and got a 3-angle valve job.

Also, you should replace your timing belt, timing belt tensioner, & water pump. You should also look into removing your balance shafts.

 

[UNDR PSI]

Definely have the head and blocked decked in order for the headgasket to fully seal.

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

Can I do this myself?

 

[bigjangin]

the block will probably be fine unless you REALLY overheated, the head has a good chance of being warped. You can check for warpage with a straightedge and feeler gauges, the spec I believe is no more than .004" You can take it to a good machine shop and they will tell you if it needs to be milled. You cant straighten the head yourself.

With the head off and doing all that work anyways, I would check a lot of things. Look at your cylinder walls for signs of damage, new timing belt, bs belt, water pump, crank pulley etc... Also some arp head studs would be a good idea. Im sure I left some things out and someone will chime in. Good luck

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

The temperature needle never hit red line, so it can't be that bad. I plan on getting the ard head studs, upper engine gasket kit, belts, maybe crank pulley, and if I have money left a 2g exhaust manifold. About the balance shaft, where do I buy the removal kit. I am trying to keep my spenditures under a grand.

P.S. Thanks for thwe advice everyone.

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[Scrymerr]

I would get the head hot tanked, valve stem seals replaced, pressure checked etc, and put the head back on with ARP head studs and a metal head gasket. After my head gasket blew, I took precautions to make sure I never had to replace it again.

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

I heard you had to get the block and the head to a machinist to be able to put a metal gasket, not quite sure what it consists of, but I don't want to do it. I think I'll stick with the gasket kit form buschur.

 

[awd4g63]

Timing belt kit:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/Engine/timing belt/timing_belt.html

Balance shaft removal kit:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/Engine/balance shaft eliminator kit/Eliminator.html

Cometic head gasket:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/Engine/cometic/cometic.html

This is the page I got them from:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/Engine.html

There's also some other parts on there I'd recommend, such as the ARP head studs, valve guides, etc). Plus, there's some pulleys on there you might be interested in if you're looking for some like you said.

Water pump:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/Engine rebuild/Water pump/Water_pump.html

Hope those help a little

 

[awd4g63]

I heard you had to get the block and the head to a machinist to be able to put a metal gasket, not quite sure what it consists of, but I don't want to do it. I think I'll stick with the gasket kit form buschur.

The block should be fine. It's a cast iron block, so it'll take quite a bit more heat to warp it than your head. If your head isn't warped, then your block will be fine. Just get the basic head work done (valve stem seals/guides, valve job, & get it milled) and call it a day. The Cometic head gasket is a good metal head gasket. Everyone seems to be loving it and having no problems with it sealing. I put one on mine when I replaced my timing belt & head gasket, and it was wonderful. I've ran 22-23psi at the track with no problems (other than fuel ) at all.

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

Sounds good. Thanks for all the info.

 

[ITSME4G63]

does your head make a ticking noise? Cause if it does you would need to replace the lifters
http://slowboyracing.com/Engine rebuild/Lifters/lifters.html

 

[philipkrotch]

replace the cam seals, valve cover gasket, get the valve seals replaced, deck the head, get revised lifters, replace intake manifold gasket with OEM metal one. if u still got money buy some go fast parts.

 

[Larry L]

We'll since you are there and the timing belt is off. Replace the timing belt, watrer pump and intake, and exaust manifold gaskets. And I would definately resurface the head before putting it back on.

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

All sounds good, except getting the head worked on. I have to go 50 miles to get to a machine shop. :thumbdown

Here is my list so far.

ARP head studs $90.00 USD
Mitsubishi Metal HG $90.00 USD
manifold gasket $18.00 USD
Power kevlar timing belt $159.00 USD
NGK spark plugs BPR7ES $10.00 USD
valve cover gasket $40.00 USD
2g exhaust manifolds $180.00 USD

All prices from slowboy website.

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

P.S. Is the gasket for the intake and exhaust the same? The website didn't specify which manifold the gasket is for.

 

[awd4g63]

No, the gasket for the exhaust manifold is a metal material and more of a cork/rubber material for the intake manifold.

btw - you may want to think about taking the head 50 miles to get it worked on. It's definitely worth it, especially getting it decked to get that new HG to seal properly.

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

Ah sounds good. Well, I took the spark plugs out and one of them is melted.

 

[awd4g63]

Melted? Sure it's not just banged up from detonation or pre-ignition?

 

[nineD5_GS-T]

Possibly burned a valve. Was there a large backfire at all before working on the car?

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

Possibly burned a valve. Was there a large backfire at all before working on the car?

No.

 

[Kinetik_tsi]

Melted? Sure it's not just banged up from detonation or pre-ignition?

Not banged up. It's meleted. I was boosting 20+psi (boost creep due to new mbc) when the radiator blew, drove car home, seemed to run fine, and temp. gauge never hit redline.

 

[TSIfreek]

Lets hope you didnt torch the head or put a hole in one of the pistons. Sounds to me like you were running lean causing the spark plug to get so hot and melt (not good)
You will be able to see if there is any damage once the head is off. Let us know when you get the head off. Dont buy any parts yet!!!!!!