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What should I do...Head and HG???

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vlaar

20+ Year Contributor
216
0
Oct 9, 2002
I will be doing a new headgasket on my car in a couple of weeks with my mechanic. I wanted your input. Money is pretty tight (credit card bills, etc) so I want to go the cheapest route without half-assing stuff. It's possible if you have faith :D Anyway, here is the route that I ultimately would like to take (if money wasn't an issue). Buy a new refurbished head for $340 from Clearwater Cylinder Head down south in Clearwater, FL. $125 for powdercoated 4G63 valve cover, $130 for ARP studs and OEM headgasket (ARP's at www.horsepowerfreaks.com), $50 for Valve cover gasket set. My mechanic only charges me 20 bux an hr which is nice! Or I was also thinking to just keep my stock head, deck it myself (suggestions on how to do this), and pray that I don't push any more coolant! My mechanic has like every tool in the book, so should he have a problem installing new valve seals?? I know I can get my head decked, hot tanked, pressure tested for like 200 bux, but I don't really have any downtime to work with :cry: Thoughts? Opinions on my plan, etc? Thanks.

Kevin

Also, my cylinder head was off the car at 107,000 miles (now have 130,100) to get "repaired". That's what is said according to the paperwork I have here at the house.
 
You're going about this the wrong way if you want to save money.

Instead of buying another head, just have your head rebuilt by a good local machine shop. It's usually around 150 dollars to have the head/block surface decked, all the valve seals replaced, valves and seats ground, and everything cleaned up.

Then just use the valve cover you have, or buy another stock one for like 40 bucks.

You probably want to do the timing belt and tensioner while you are in there.

OEM head gasket is the way to go, ARP's are the way to go.

Tap or chase your head stud holes before installation, and only use the ARP moly lube.
 
The reason I will need a new valve cover is because my current one is going to crack even more when I take it off. I put JB weld on one of the bolts so it looks like crap and will crack when taken off. Also, I really only have a MAX of two days for the machine shop to work on the head. That's the reason I was considering doing the refurb head.
 
I just got doing this recently; Get the arp's, should be alot cheaper than $130, but instead of buying all the gaskets seperate just get the upper engine gasket kit. I got the oem one and it came with every gasket needed for the job. Also if its been awhile might as well do the timing belt at the same time. If getting the head rebuild is too expensive you can just get it decked, cost me around $37 if I remember correctly and only took one day, could have been same day if I got it there in the morning, rebuild is the better option though.
 
Where did you get your upper complete gasket kit? Timing belt was done 23,000 ago so I'm not worrying about it. I want to get the head decked, pressure treated, and have new valve seals installed. Thanks.
 
Since we'll have the head off as well as the timing belt, would you recommend I install a new front cover gasket?? I was looking at this one: http://www.machv.com/frcoga.html Better ones out there? Also, a friend recommended I cut the balance belt off.... Maybe I heard him wrong. I don't have tons of money to hand my mechanic but about how much longer or harder would it be to remove the balance shafts?? I have 130K on the odometer now. Timing belt, balance belt, other timing stuff was replaced at 108K. Thanks.

Kevin
 
I just got a few estimates for the decking of the head and the installation of new valve seals. 50 bux from one shop to just deck the head and 85 bux for the installation of new valve seals. I would provide the valve seals, 85 bux just for labor. Does this sound reasonable??

Kevin
 
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