Removing timing belt, can't align marks

[ErikTande]

I can get the bottom marks lined up (oil and crank) but the cam marks aren't very close. I'm turning the crank clockwise, I've gone around about 12 times now and it's not even close.


Any ideas? I need all 4 lined up before I pull the belt off, right?

 

[luv2rallye]

Also read the Note in step 22: http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

 

[Dsmkauai]

All I will say is buy this and never second guess yourself again! Jay racing tools rock! Trust me totally worth every penny http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_31_138&products_id=3040

 

[DSM1G90]

Nice kit if you're doing T-belt changeouts on DSM's as a career, but I went to a hardware store, bought a length of 8mm rod and two, 13mm nuts.

Cut down the rod to the needed length and took the two nuts, threaded them on the rod, then jammed them together so they won't turn. Now, I can put a 13mm socket on the end.

As for the pulley tensioner, any small allen wrench and using a socket that fits the pulley bolt works wonders when you know how to do the fulcrum trick - being the socket acts like the center point for the allen with the short end of the allen into one of the pulley holes and the long end is something you can hold on to.

Finally, the right size drill bit to set the correct distance between tension pin and tension arm.

Get them all set, walk back into the house to grab a "brown fizzy drink on the rocks", go back outside and turn the crank the six rotations and walk back inside to read your mail. After a half hour after the initial check, do the rotations again to be sure, then put it all back together....and happy driving !

-DSM

 

[Dsmkauai]

I bought it for myself bro. Racing a dsm for me involves new timing componenets just about every session or every other depending on how much I'm out. I also daily drive my cars so that's more abuse. So ya it gets plenty of use considering I have 3 cars, and work on the islands mitsu's when I can !

 

[DSM1G90]

Real good!

For when I did mine, I didn't know of any such parts, but just took tips from VFAQ and ran with it along with going cheap and what tools I had, (even used a beam torque wrench and a chain wrench to get the center bolt tighten to specs - had a center of an old harmonic pulley that I bolted on front of the crank sprocket so I can wrap that chain wrench around..then did the grunt of "tug-of-war" with the two wrenches to get the bolt to torque specs.

Figured I did good, for the motor took off the first time and that's been six years ago.

Congrats then and don't get hurt on the track! - DSM

 

[oren hughbanks]

Also don't forget to make sure you have the lower balance shaft rotated correctly. The mark may line up but the balance shaft can be 180 degrees out of phase. There is a bolt in the middle of the block on the back side of the engine that's sitting on a machined surface all by itself... Looks out of place and like something should b there. Undo that bolt and u can insert a screw driver to see if the b.shaft is rotated correctly. U should be able to insert the screw driver at least 2.4 inches. If u can't that shaft is 180 degrees off. And DONT FIRGET TO TAKE OUT THE SCREW DRIVER! U can find the full article on VFAQ. I only tell you this from learning the hard way

 

[DSM1G90]

I did the VFAQ cheat in getting the rear BS in phase - tons easier than doing the screwdriver trick.

 

[pauleyman]

That cheat doesnt work well if the seals are new.

 

[thirsty]

I know with EVO 3 cams in my VR4 head I need to load the exhaust cam a little to get the marks to line up. I hold the cams in place with two plugs I made from a self cure acrylic.
Cheers
Ross

I edited my post as the first sentence was, I discovered complete B/S.