removing the head to change my valves and valve springs

[dsmking101]

hey guys i want to change my valves & valve springs and retainers///but want to remove the head so i can do it properly ive seen it done by someone on youtube but thay dident show when thay removed the head dose any dsmer out there know how to remove the head to get to the valves //springs and retainers

 

[Dark DSM]

hey guys i want to change my valves & valve springs and retainers///but want to remove the head so i can do it properly ive seen it done by someone on youtube but thay dident show when thay removed the head dose any dsmer out there know how to remove the head to get to the valves //springs and retainers

Well start by getting a chiltons manual or something and read, or start taking it apart your self. Ive done it so many times i can have the head off in less than an hour, and the entire engine and trans out in less than 2 hours. Baiscly you have to learn by starting to do it.....

 

[dsmking101]

thanks ill deff do that as soon as i can get the book (any tips befor i start)

 

[southrneclipser]

remove timing belt
remove all wires and connections.
take off power steering pump and bracket.
unbolt exhaust manifold.
in the back of the engine there are 2 supports that are connected to the bottom of the intake mani. You must remove these. ( i would just leave them off)
take off valve cover
remove cams. ( its possible to get the head off without taking out cams but it makes it lighter when you lift it off)
Remove head bolts and just lift it straight up.
I recommend leaving the intake manifold on becuase it gives you something to hold on to.
If you don't have an engine jack like me, i stood over the engine bay(hood off) with one foot on the rad core support and one foot where the windsheild wipers are. (not on windshield) that way you can bend down and just pick it up. However im 17 and i was by myself so im not heavy enough to do any damage. I reccommend getting a buddy.

BTW while its off it would be a good time to change all your gaskets. Remember to get new head bolts and don't over torque them so they break off in the block like mine. And if your getting a new valve train look into getting your head shaved to make sure its not warped and you might as well port it out while its out of the car. Just remember to save all bolts and maybe take pictures along the way if its your first time. Good luck my friend

 

[Dark DSM]

remove timing belt
remove all wires and connections.
take off power steering pump and bracket.
unbolt exhaust manifold.
in the back of the engine there are 2 supports that are connected to the bottom of the intake mani. You must remove these. ( i would just leave them off)
take off valve cover
remove cams. ( its possible to get the head off without taking out cams but it makes it lighter when you lift it off)
Remove head bolts and just lift it straight up.
I recommend leaving the intake manifold on becuase it gives you something to hold on to.
If you don't have an engine jack like me, i stood over the engine bay(hood off) with one foot on the rad core support and one foot where the windsheild wipers are. (not on windshield) that way you can bend down and just pick it up. However im 17 and i was by myself so im not heavy enough to do any damage. I reccommend getting a buddy.

BTW while its off it would be a good time to change all your gaskets. Remember to get new head bolts and don't over torque them so they break off in the block like mine. And if your getting a new valve train look into getting your head shaved to make sure its not warped and you might as well port it out while its out of the car. Just remember to save all bolts and maybe take pictures along the way if its your first time. Good luck my friend

well generally speaking, if your getting head work done, a good machine shop with automatically put that in the quote, bc its just smart to do that. At this point its pretty much considered a full on head job. Most definatly follow the correct torque sequence when putting the head back on or else bad stuff will happen.

 

[dsmking101]

nice good info thanks alot guys i apriciate it this help alot... just to make sure the torque sequences are thay located in the chiltons manual...

 

[tec_41]

I sure hope so! If they're in my Haynes, they should be in a Chilton's

 

[dsmking101]

k thanks bro

 

[mhDSM09]

Yes, a Chiltons or Haynes will become your new best friend when doing this job. They're chock-full of useful info and pics to help you along the way. Also, I love that they list all the torque specs as well. I just got done doing this project for the first time myself.

Just make sure if you decide on an MLS head gasket to follow the revised head bolt torque specs. The one in the Chiltons is for the composite gasket. I believe the revised for MLS is: 25ftlb inner-20ftlb outer, then 50ftlb inner-35ftlb outer, back bolts off then retorque 50ftlb inner-35ftlb outer. After that turn each bolt an additional 1/4 turn. Just going by memory here but I believe that's what it is. Anyways good luck and make sure to mark/replace bolts as you go!

 

[Natedsmeclipse]

just get some ARP head studs and crank them down to 65ftlb.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

just get some ARP head studs and crank them down to 65ftlb.

Even using ARP studs you should follow a proper torquing sequence.

 

[dsmking101]

thanks guys i appreciate it

 

[davidaham]

don't forget to take the bolts out of the back of the timing cover there are two 8 mm bolts that bolt the timing cover to the head. you will brake the cover if you pull on the head with out removing the bolts also you will have to remove your upper timing pulley. and you will need a crank puller to pull your crank off when you get ready to put it back together. so you can reset the timing. and if i was you go ahead and change your timing belt and water pump.

 

[xceler8]

Oh snap, drain your coolant first bro, i didn't see that above, your gonna have a mess if you don't.
Use ARP studs and torue to spec as paul mentioned. Be sure to use the moly lube they provide for you. I ran a cometic head gasket and haven't had any problems up to 16psi so far. Have your machine shop port and polish your head while their at it. you might also look into your build and decide what your doing with the car. You may consider bigger valves while you have the head off. I'm wishing I had 1mm oversized myself.
Overall it's pretty easy to do, just takes some time.
Your going to have to purge your fuel system by unplugging the fuel pump under your back seat inside the panel on the middle section I beleive. Then start the car and get all the fuel out of the system. you have to unplug the fuel lines from the rail to take the head off with rail attached. Quick way as I usually do it is pull the lines and let my fuel spill out, not usually too much just becarefull not to blow yourself up!
I cold pry have my head off in under two hours if I needed to.
PM me if you ave any q's while doing it. or email me [email protected]

last tip from me...
if your just doing valvesprings, you can do it without taking the head off. i did my evo this way and will be doing my eclipse this way when my cams and springs come in next week.
valves and head work is obviusly another story!

 

[dsmking101]

xceler8 ----thanks for the info bro i will deff email you if i run into any problems i appreicate the help thanks

 

[mosul210]

Sorry to bring this back up, but Im about to attempt to pull the head on a 420A. I have the valve cover and timing cover off. What tools / socket do I need to unscrew the head bolts? I thought I read there was a special socket for it. Thanks in advance for your response!

BTW removing head from a long block with a snapped timing belt.

 

[herms99gst]

i was gonna attempt to rebuild the head myself but i was talked out of it by a lot of people on here due to the fact that their is a lot involed...like making sure the installed valve spring height is correct, and if not shimming. If its as easy as sending the head for machine work and than just installing the valvetrain than hell ill do it and save some time and money, i just dont have the meassuring tools for checking heights. But i will say that curt brown quoted me 3-400 for all of the above including machine work and a debur as well as polishing the cc's...and thats going 1mm over int. and exh.