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Removing rear rotors

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SC_GSX

Probationary Member
2
0
May 8, 2004
Seneca, South Carolina
1995 GSX

My car began shuddering under moderate breaking about 10,000 miles ago (@ 100k now). At first I ignored it, then I changed the front rotors, which seemed to help a little. My car still shudders, but only under moderate breaking, if I break hard, or lightly, I've got no problems.

(I think I scare the other drivers by approaching stoplights too quickly just so I can break hard LOL)

So, a mechanic buddy of mine suggested that if it shuddres and the steering wheel doesn't vibrate, it's probably the rear rotors. So I bought two rear rotors and am in the process of trying to replace them.

The problem I'm having is that I can't get the darn things off. I moved the caliper and the two bolts that hold the bracket in place, but it doesn't budge. Am I missing something? I'm afraid to take a hammer to it until I'm sure I'm not missing a bolt. The rotor around the studs is pretty rusty, so I sprayed some wd40 on it hoping it would break loose... no luck. Suggestions? I'm currently working on the rear driver's side.

Thanks all.
 
There are 2 holes that you can thread a bolt into in between the wheel studs and it will push the rotor off. They may be full of rust, so you may have to poke around to find them, i know i had to. Just take your time. There is a write up somewhere on here on what bolt fits that, sorry i do not know. On my Passangers side, they were stripped out, so i had to use this method, which worked wonderfully. http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html
 
Great idea man, thanks for the info. Wanted to be sure I wasn't missing a bolt :)
 
Very good point AWDpetmitsu. One of my rotors was rusted so bad, it formed a rust ring around the inside of the EBrake drum, and i had to really pull to get the rotors off, So, be patient, and just slowly work at it, Try to walk it off do a little bit on the left, right, top, bottom, then go back to the left and start over again.
 
I had the same problem a few months ago when i needed enitrely new brakes. I sprayed liquid wrench all over the bolts and even used an impact wrench and still found it impossible to get the calipers off in order to get to the rotors. I ended up having to put my car on a life while using a ratchet and a lead pipe for leverage OMG. I was literally hanging from the things. So, just be patient and in the end just try not to break any of the bolts that go onj the calipers cuz then youre fuc#$%.
 
first off im pretty sure the Ebrake uses the regular caliper its just on a cable not the fluid lines and second once you have the caliper off nothing else holds the rotor there I just gave it a moderate swing with the ole hammer and it poped right loose (mine were really rusterd too) I just changed mine on Sat morning.
 
on some cars with rear discs the cable uses the pads to set the ebrake. nissans are infamous for using a drum set up on the rear discs for the ebrake. i'm haven't taken a good look at dsm's rear brakes yet, will be sure to do that tonight on my buddies. basically the way it works is you pull the cable and just like drum brakes, the shoes on the inside of the rotor press out into the rotor ceasing it to move. not sure if that offers any help.
good luck and be patient with it.
 
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