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Removed performance parts, now car wont idle...

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NordicSaab

10+ Year Contributor
198
26
Oct 6, 2011
Tampa, Florida
Hey Guys, So I bought a 1991 Eagle Talon with the intent of parting it out, but it turned out to be nicer than I expected. So, rather I have been going through and removing all the hacked up performance parts and returning it to stock, but Im having real trouble getting the thing to idle now. To start let me list what I have removed:

Removed:
Data Logger
Apexi SAFC
Performance Socketed Ecu with burned chip
Performance intake
800cc injectors
AEM Uego
Greddy Turbo timer
MBC
AEM boost solenoid
Methanol Kit
Large gauge fuel pump wiring

All of the parts were replaced with OEM used stock parts from my collection.

Current Parts:
TD05 Turbo - Not sure what it is 14b?
Oil feed from plate
2g intercooler
EVO charge piping
450cc injectors
rebuilt OEM computer

What the car is doing now:
The car will start and run for a few seconds and then fall on its face to 500rpm and stumble along. It will eventually stall out. If you modulate with the throttle you can keep it running but the engine will miss and fart until it gets revved up (open loop?) then it begins to hit properly.

I removed the connection to the MAF (2G MAF wired in without a translator) to force the car into open loop operation and it idles strong at 1200rpm and revved better than with the MAF connected.

Potential causes:
1) MAF - I've tried x2 different 2g MAF with the same result. Would not using a MAF translator cause this problem?
2) TPS - Swapped out with x2 other sensors all with the same result
3) Vacuum leak - checked by pressurizing system and cant find any
4) o2 sensor - I think this is a long shot...

Anyone else have any thoughts?
 
Reset everything on the throttle body. Reset the SAS, TPS, BISS, and throttle cable. I had this exact same issue. The other ECU may have been masking the issue of the poorly set throttle body.

Mine ran for 20 seconds then would die. Everytime. Then I did all adjustments to TB and it would stay on.
 
You can't run a 2G MAF on a 1G without some way to manipulate the airflow signal. Hence the AFC on the car. Get a factory 1G MAF and put that in.
 
You can't run a 2G MAF on a 1G without some way to manipulate the airflow signal. Hence the AFC on the car. Get a factory 1G MAF and put that in.

I suspected this was a possibility. In the past I have hard wired in 2g MAF with up-rated (550cc and 680cc) injectors, but 450cc will not work?

From what I have read the 2g MAF flows 30% more air per signal so the solution should be putting in larger injectors (550cc?) or by getting a MAF translator?

Can anyone confirm this?
 
I suspected this was a possibility. In the past I have hard wired in 2g MAF with up-rated (550cc and 680cc) injectors, but 450cc will not work?

From what I have read the 2g MAF flows 30% more air per signal so the solution should be putting in larger injectors (550cc?) or by getting a MAF translator?

Can anyone confirm this?

That is correct for a very rough estimate. Most cars will usually need some type of fine tuning to get AFRs in line. I'd recommend getting a 1G MAF if you want it to run the best with no AFC.
 
Hey all, just wanted to thank everyone for their feedback.

Problem was solved by swapping out to 550cc injectors. Not perfect, but will run and drive fine for now.

Thanks again!
 
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