Removed Emissions Vaccuum Lines Now Problems

[tight_tsi]

So I removed all of the emissions vaccuum lines tonight after work per following the directions from the Taboo diagrams. I capped all 4 ports on the throttle body. Completely removed the charcoal canister and left the line to the fuel tank vented/open. Removed all the vaccuum lines associated with emissions. My wastegate is getting supplied from the J pipe, I have no mbc as of yet. The car is otherwise stock except for a 16g turbo. I also installed a new battery and new fuel filter while I had things apart. The egr is also blocked off.

I drove the car to work today, drove it around on my lunch break, and drove it home with no issues. After the above work was completed and all put back together, I went to drive it and I'm now getting a bunch of white smoke out the exhaust even while just idling. It might have a slight blue tint to it but it is mostly all white. Revving up the engine in neutral makes it a lot worse. I've double checked everything - even pulled off the intake pipe to check the turbo for shaft play, etc. It has a slight amount but the fins don't touch the sides or anything. I have the feeling it has something to do with the modifications I performed as it drove perfectly fine right before I did them.

Any suggestions/advice?? Thanks in advance -

 

[Dsmj89]

Throttle body not thermostat. On 91-97 there should be three vacuum ports an 98-99 there are only two.

No you must've misunderstood, maybe i'm not explaining it right.
On a 1g, there are 2 little nipples, they are hidden bellow the water neck, vacuum lines used to go there, i will see if i can get a pic of what i'm talking about either tonight or tomorrow.
Not saying it is the culprit of his problems but it might help.

 

[wkmitsu]

Simply put, on a 1G, you CAN remove all of the emissions vacuum lines AND the solenoids with little consequence. The only issue that could occur is harder warm start-ups due to the fuel pressure solenoid being gone. The EGR is the only CEL that could potentially pop up due to it "not working correctly" according to the ECU. DSMLink or a DSMChip, etc., could help resolve the EGR CEL by disabling that CEL altogether.

2Gs, on the other hand, WILL throw CELs if you remove the solenoids, but the emissions can be removed with no other issues. Same EGR CEL as well. DSMLink, etc., will help with ALL of the CELs in question on 2Gs.

In the 10 years I've been working on these cars, not once have I ever had an issue removing the emissions from any of my cars, stock or highly modified, including removing the EGR and FPS. I feel that this situation was just an unlucky coincidence having the turbo blow.

Thank you.

 

[Brentenorris]

no probs with emissions here all is removed and unpluged no cel's or performance issues

 

[tight_tsi]

Could this bad turbo been a possible reason why it would smoke after boosting when shifting? For the past 2 weeks it would puff out smoke after boosting but not during a white/bluish smoke.

 

[EclipticalGS]

NOT false. You can not just disconnect evap lines, The ecu purges the evap system and if it is disconnected it will not allow that vapor to get to your engine. Meaning your car's A/F will be LEAN.I don't know what happens to your engine when you run it lean, but on any other engine it can be catostrophic. With that being said, Seeing as he was showing signs of blue smoke as well as white, that COULD have been the issue. But in his case, thank goodness, it was only the turbo.

Your terribly mistaken...If anything our cars run better without having to track down leaks somewhere throughout the emissions vac line mess...As long as you leave the FPS and the other 2 solenoids plugged in, you will not throw any codes..(some 95-99's will it all depends if your ecu's picky) Also when your done removing the emissions you are left with a little hose that runs from your gas tank..

Before ripping out my emessions (including EGR blockoff and catchcan setup), my AFR's sat at 14.8 idle/10.4 WOT, after my AFR sat at 14.8 idle/10.4 WOT...Theres no "lean" condition your talking about here.

He has oil in his intake pipe and says his turbo was puffing on let-off, classic case of mhi failure is leaky seals/ compressor wheel scuffing the compressor housing.

To the OP if you can see scratches on your compressor housing from the wheel meeting the housing it is possible you will need a whole new centerhousing/shaft/wheel, etc...

 

[tight_tsi]

Thanks again for everyone that replied- I'm going to look at a 16g tomorrow for possible immediate replacement and get this back on the road. Diesel is too expensive for a daily driver anymore! Lol

 

[LiquidX]

OP, if the fins touch the walls in either direction it's time form a rebuild. You won't be getting oil out of the compressor wheel into your intake as it seems you've been lead to believe. The oil is coming from your valve cover breather tube and is accumulating oil in your intake and spreading it through out your IC pipes via the turbo.

Your oil shaft seals are on the turbine side and you would see the fins being dark and wet looking if it was burning oil that was seeping past.

You need to take out your IC and pipes to fully clean the oil left in there, check your PCV to make sure it's working properly by blowing into it. If air leaks by then it's bad and it's allowing boost pressure to pressurize the crank case causing blow by. Also goto napa,Autozone etc. And get a plastic in line fuel filter and place that in the breather line as a sort of catch can. You can hook it back up to the intake pipe as well. This will help prevent any oil from making it back to the intake pipe.

If the PCV is bad you need to get an OEM unit (test it first) and you can goto 3/8" Kynar® Standard Check Valves | U.S. Plastic Corp. and get the check valve to place in between the PCV and the IM.

 

[tight_tsi]

liquidx - As I previously mentioned, I have 2 catch cans on order that should be here any day now. I've also ordered that check-valve. Going to run a dual catch can setup with the in-line valve on the pcv setup. The pcv valve itself was replaced with an oem unit a few weeks ago, but I will double check it anyways when I get the catch cans set up. Sounds like I'm on the right track though - thanks for the recommendations!

 

[98DiamondStar]

Oh wow, yeah i'm totally sorry for those posts. I had a massive brain fart aparently. Thanks for correcting me twice, ugh. *Slams head into desk*

 

[tight_tsi]

Went to look at a used 16g turbo locally from craigslist this afternoon. It was worse than mine was! Shaft play like no other and a ton of marks on the housing where the fins had been previously digging in. I was like you've got to be kidding me!! You want me to believe this is a good turbo?!?!?!?

 

[LKWTSI]

No you must've misunderstood, maybe i'm not explaining it right.
On a 1g, there are 2 little nipples, they are hidden bellow the water neck, vacuum lines used to go there, i will see if i can get a pic of what i'm talking about either tonight or tomorrow.
Not saying it is the culprit of his problems but it might help.

Tight Tsi.... your completely right!!
The part you're talking about is the Thermovalve, that's on the T/Stat housing. As I said in my earlier reply, if you're going to do the emission removal, just take the valve out go to Lowes and find a NPT plug the same thread and plug the T/Stat and don't worry about capping the nipples.

 

[tight_tsi]

Tight Tsi.... your completely right!!
The part you're talking about is the Thermovalve, that's on the T/Stat housing. As I said in my earlier reply, if you're going to do the emission removal, just take the valve out go to Lowes and find a NPT plug the same thread and plug the T/Stat and don't worry about capping the nipples.

Perfect! I drained the cooling system yesterday so would be a good time to pull that thermal valve out and install a plug!! Anyone know the thread size off the top of their head??

 

[LKWTSI]

Perfect! I drained the cooling system yesterday so would be a good time to pull that thermal valve out and install a plug!! Anyone know the thread size off the top of their head??

99% sure it's 3/8"NPT but take the valve once it's out just to be sure. Here's a pic of mine after I did the mods to the T/Stat. ALSO, I moved my sensors around for convenience of my new mods, so there not all in the original place, but you can see the plugs I used.

 

[tight_tsi]

^^^^that looks real nice! Very clean - What mods to the t-stat are we talking about here? Something that I should know about??

 

[TalonTsi_291]

Removing emissions has no negative effects. I don't even have the solenoids in the car, no cel either. For well over a year. In your pic its difficult to see if the fins have hit. It takes a large amount of shaft play (up and down) which is bad shaft play, to hit the walls of the inlet. But there is oil. There are a few things people haven't said to check though. Pop your radiator cap while the engine is cold. Start it and watch for a steady constant flow of bubbles in the coolant. No bubbles=good headgasket. While the engine is still running remove the oil fill cap. Watch, listen, and feel for air coming out. No air=good rings. If both of those check out you've most likely ruled it as the turbo.

 

[LKWTSI]

^^^^that looks real nice! Very clean - What mods to the t-stat are we talking about here? Something that I should know about??

The water feed for the heating was removed and welded closed, you can see that on the water pipe running along the block next to the turbo. then I removed all the heater core and associated pipes and hoses that run to the throttlebody for the FIAV and welded that shut. Also removed the thermovalve and temperature sender as I have an aftermarket temp gauge. I moved the ECU sender to the place of the thermovalve and the feed for the turbo coolant was welded shut and converted the feed to -AN and moved that to the position the A/C temp sender was at and plugged the rest as you can see.

My mod's are pretty drastic as this car is getting a total makeover and will only ever see the track/strip. apart from the -AN conversion, I wouldn't go to this extreme for your DD car, but it was fun to do.

 

[tight_tsi]

Ok so after searching for turbo's in my price range and only finding cheap/junk ebay turbos I have decided I'd like to try to rebuild this one. But first, I would like to ask if this turbo is worth rebuilding. I took apart the housings tonight - see pictures below. On the compressor housing you can see where the fins breifly started touching the housing. I can't even catch a fingernail on it though - it actually looks worse in the pictures than it does in real life. Also, on the compressor wheel, you can see slightly where there is minor marks as well but I think it's minimum damage???

Is this turbo rebuildable??? I found the kit through search on this site here that was highly recommended. I found the vfaq instructions and have full confidence that I can do this. Just not sure if there is anything about this turbo failure that would make it non-rebuildable???

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After washing it up in a parts washer:

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[LKWTSI]

In my opinion, the turbo is done. I had similar results from mine (actually a lot worse), but needless to say, you're on a budget and I understand

I'd be inclined to save the $50+tax/shipping and either keep looking for a replacement on the classifieds here, or shell out and upgrade to a E16G. Which usually run around $550 +tax. Good upgrade and everything I've read and I'm sure you'll hear again, stay away from the Ebay knockoffs.

I remember when my turbo went and did exactly as you are doing, but ended up choosing the upgrade, rather than the repair.

Good luck and keep looking through the classifieds, pretty much asured one will show up within a few days, they always do.

 

[TalonTsi_291]

I'm fixing mine. I've got a 16g getting a rebuild right now. Its not difficult. The rebuild kit off ebay is $70.

 

[tight_tsi]

Well....might get flamed for this but I'm going to rebuild it. Ordered the rebuild kit today - contacted the seller of that kit and got a reply within an hour this morning. He said he'd get it shipped out asap so I can get this up and running again soon. I'll keep this thread updated as I make progress.
I will also be installing my dual catch can setup (with us plastics valve) and boost gauge soon too, probably over the weekend.

 

[tight_tsi]

Well, got the turbo rebuilt over this past weekend and re-installed. Finally got a boost gauge installed also. After rebuilding the turbo and taking it out to drive it I'm getting a max 6psi under WOT. Built a intake-leak tester and found out I have a massive air leak from the drivers side rear intake area. Pretty sure it is the intake manifold gasket - sounds like it is coming from down low. So guess this is next on my list.

Also did a compression test - results from passenger side to drivers side cylinders: 162 122 80 142.

Then did a wet test on the middle 2 cylinders and the left one stayed at 122, the one that previously measured 80 went up to 122 when wet. So I'm guessing that means a ring problem since it increased with a capfull of oil in the cylinder?? Or could it somehow be related to the good sized boost leak??

 

[tEi Vp DsM]

check all your vacuum lines,something is open and leaking..did you check the throttle body and intake manifold?check to make sure you didnt cut,tear or accidentally leave a hose unplugged....good luck

 

[AllWheelRS]

Also did a compression test - results from passenger side to drivers side cylinders: 162 122 80 142.

Then did a wet test on the middle 2 cylinders and the left one stayed at 122, the one that previously measured 80 went up to 122 when wet. So I'm guessing that means a ring problem since it increased with a capfull of oil in the cylinder?? Or could it somehow be related to the good sized boost leak??

Time for a rebuild.

 

[jbl_5star]

Oo Im going to use this post so I dont start a new thread and get in trouble to start off.
I just picked up a 97 gst and I was looking and it has a lot more vacuum line then my 1g. To explain on my '93 the vacuum line runs from my waste gate actuator on my 16g up to a split between the bov and intake manifold. There is no line connecting to the jpipe and boosts completely fine and in the manual it shows exactly that. Now on the '97 it comes from the waste gate actuator and from the jpipe to a split to a sensor the split and runs to the intake and on a different line runs from the stock bov to the intake manifold kinda hard to get a picture of from words and thats the best way i can explain it but it doesnt seem right.. I dont feel any boost and around 4k rpms seems to like just seems to stay at the same speed
(ps there is low compression in cylinder 3 and I havent checked to see if there are any boost leaks)

so i guess the question is, is the vacuum lines right on the 97? also its a 6bolt swap so could i run the vacuum lines like on my 93?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_VacumnHosesTurbo97EclipseFig01_1.jpg

this is a vacuum schematic i found and looks how its ran, but in my chilton it shows how my 1g is set up????

theses cars are sometimes a f*$&^$ headache

 

[19Eclipse90]

You want to set it up originally from the factory? If so, do as the the link you provided says. Here's a little larger version, just in case: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/426259-correct.html#post152865794.

If you are trying to do a reduction, follow these diagrams for your application -- though if you study them, you'll soon realize there isn't much difference between a 1G and 2G: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/198327-taboo-speed-shop-vacuum-diagram-removal-1g-2g.html#post152901120

In any case, do not "T" into the BOV line.