1G Refreshing the throttle body?

[93AWDDSM]

Hey, so I’m pulling apart my throttle body to do shaft seals and gonna refresh the lower FIAV area. I’m just doing it stock but I have a question about a clip with a bolt, does it need to be in there or can I remove it?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Do you want it "stock"??? Rebuild it correctly and you should be happy.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Lol, does it serve any purpose though?

 

[Bo0sTeD 4G63]

It's there for a reason but if you want to find out you could always remove it and let us know your findings.

 

[93AWDDSM]

well.... very displeased with the rebuild . The new shaft seals seemed to "slip" right into their spots with ease, which also meant they "slipped" out of their spot with ease. Why is this happenimg? Anyways, there's a major leak now there. Should I pull the TB off and put a slight RTV around the seal case to help keep it tight? like I literally just put them in with my fingers no tapping in or anything..

 

[Vegas Smith]

Wrong seals?

 

[93AWDDSM]

I really hope not as they were extremepsi seals and I don’t have a 90s TB. Extremely confused. The areas where they seat weren’t gouged up either which is really strange.

 

[Cox Abele]

That tang is part of the FIAV. If I'm not mistaken, that is the part that closes off the coolant passage when up to operating temperature.

If you are using either an FIAV block off plate, or a full block off plate that also eliminates the ISC passages, this tang will be removed.

If you have a 90 TB, you can also do a "free" FIAV delete pretty easily. It is the only year with a unique FIAV, but both the 90 and later years of FIAV can be blocked following readily available how-to guides. Any time the FIAV has been made non-operational regardless of method, the coolant hoses should be removed from the throttle body.

This is a really long conversation, but please please please do yourself a favor! Now that you've removed the lower half of the throttle body, do one of two things- Either plan to block off the FIAV in whichever manner you choose (plate, or screw it in) and disconnect the coolant lines from the throttle body, OR buy a new FIAV gasket/o-ring and install it with new hardware that you have locktited the hell out of.

I had pulled my 1g throttle body apart to clean everything out and rebuild. I failed to install a new gasket because I figured it was good enough to re-use. I did install new hardware, but I didn't locktite it in place. Eventually I developed a coolant leak at the throttle body as the screws had backed out just enough. Rather then leaking out of the throttle body, the engine ingested the coolant slowly over time and gave no real signs until it was far too late. Quite literally, the engine hydrolocked at 6K on the dyno when the leak finally became large enough that the engine couldn't account for the non-compressable liquid. This sent #2 connecting rod out of the block both front and rear, shoved the piston into the head (damaging the head of course) and destroyed the crank as metal flung around inside and outside of the short block. The main girdle shattered, the windage tray was no longer salvageable. The short block was an absolute total loss because I didn't use a little locktite and a new gasket.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Lol sorry. The pictures in the thread are a spare. I pulled off my TB that was on the car and only did the shaft seals. Which is why I’m confused as to why it’s leaking worse.... the area where the sit in on the TB should have been snugged or needed to be tapped in. This is not the case with mine, so maybe pull off the TB and rtv them in place?

 

[Cox Abele]

RTV should not be required. I know you spent good money on seals, but it seems as if though one of a few things has happened. Can you provide a link to the seal kit you purchased and verify that is the kit that you received? I may be able to help you, but need a little more info.

 

[Cox Abele]

I guess you bought these; correct? And you have a turbo 1g throttle body from 91-94?

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=22407

Can you post a picture of your old shaft seals? I hope that you still have them.

I've rebuild a few throttle bodies now and have used all sorts of different methods. My last rebuild was for a 90 TB IIRC and I don't recall anything being massively different. Here is my advice to you provided you still have your old shaft seals....

If they have a metal surround, you will want to re-use that piece. Using mechanic/dental picks, dig out as much of the old rubber seal that you can. Some times a lighter helps in order to burn and make brittle the old rubber. Once you have the old stuff out, take your TB and those metal rings with you to the hardware store and find some o-rings that both fit snug around the throttle body shaft but also can be cupped by the metal rings you have salvaged.

This link provides an o-ring number, but I didn't fully trust it, so I usually take my parts in with me to find what I need. Obviously you are aware of how to disassemble the TB, but this link will help you out tremendously. Provided you still have the original metal rings from the old seals, accept that you may not have received the correct kit or something is askew, cut your losses and use o-rings purchased locally. http://www.plymouthlaser.com/tbor.htm

Bradco o-rings commonly found at Home Depot and Lowes are manufactured from Buna-n, also knows as Nitrile. I had to do a bit of research to figure out a.) what they were made of and b.) if the material was fuel safe as I was rebuilding my fuel rail. I extensively looked into the capabilities and application of different o-ring materials and according to Federal Mogul (National Oil Seal), Nitrile is the optimal material to use in petroleum based sealing (gasoline, petroleum based oils)... Basically, Bradco seals which are readily available are perfectly safe to use and will be considerably cheaper if you opt to rebuild the seals versus using the factory (so far incorrect) seals.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Yeah I used the extremepsi for 91-94 and the seals that came out are the same as the ones that went in. Not oem metal encased type. I cleaned up the area where the seals sit and that was it. The spending part isn’t the problem, the problem is how long it takes to get and the fact that my brand new seals area leaking .