recipe for 110-120 traps

[14.5 drift]

I have an eclipse gsx automatic, but because it's an auto I dont get the 60 times that the manuels do. I decided to focus on the top end. I will get some thing like a 3.0 60', so i will need to make it up in the long end of the track. Now I dont want to be digging into the block just yet, so I guess i am lookin for 400-450 at the crank/300-350 at the wheels. I know some people are getting this much power out of the 16g, but Ive noticed there dyno charts look like shit. Just a big lump in the middle, so i think i want a bigger turbo that flows a bit better in the upper rpm. From the turbo to injectors feel free to give your recipe to high traps.

 

[1fast97gsx]

a 3.0 60foot?!?! You should still be able to build some boost off the line and have a nice take off. Shit my friends automatic wrx with only basic mods is nailing consistant 2.0 - 2.1. I'd look into an internally gated 20g with a front mount, 720cc injectors, 255 pump, safc2, and maybe an ecu reflash with a shutterbox. 12s won't be a problem then.

 

[14.5 drift]

Assuming you meant the td06 20g, might as well spend 200 more for some thing ball bearing no? 20g 1000.00, fp3052 1250.00, lr2 1300.00, 50 trim 1200.00.

 

[bigjangin]

um autos can get off the line just fine, hell when you are making big power some people prefer autos for drag racing(brake boosting ). Im sure there are aftermarket upgrades for the auto tranny to handle the stresses of a lot of power and let you get off not much different than a manual.

 

[boostedinaz]

and maybe an ecu reflash with a shutterbox. 12s won't be a problem then.

UUMMMM thats called a stutterbox or two step and could you explain how it would work on an auto car cause I cant.

I would concentrate on the tranny first cause it will be the first to shit once yo make big power and it will get your times down even stock. Get a converter with a higher stall speed and a shift kit and you 60ft's will improve alot. I dont see why on a 50 trim you could cut 1.8's in an auto. If you are cutting 3.0's now I would say learn to drive better at the track and again you times will improve.

Michael

 

[DSMeclipse4G63]

damn Im fwd and I have gotten a 2.2 60 ft . Auto awd is the easiest dsm to launch brake boost(converter stall test) and nail the gas when the light goes green. so you should at least get looow 2 sec 60s. Watch out when you "brake boost" cause you REALLY heat up the converter and the fluid can break down after doing it for 30seconds or more. Oh and about top end youll need a BIG turbo like a green or something to get decent top end, being as though you have an auto awd...the worst drivetrain loss and weight. But its very possible.
Andrew

 

[14.5 drift]

weight, drivetrain loss, trans loss, I'm definatly fighting the odds I know, . Thing is I dont really care about e.t.'s. I have accepted that my car won't launch good so I figure I would work with what i got. I know your saying it's possible to do with a high stall (I am back and forth on this one) but as it is I already dont like the way the stock one feels, and if I got a higher stall one it would be even worse. That and brake boosting is terrible for cars, I have done it several times and I hate the strain it puts on every thing, fact I think my factory stall is almost toast. Just wanna build a 20-160 all out monster, respectively without ripping into the block just yet

 

[boostedinaz]

weight, drivetrain loss, trans loss, I'm definatly fighting the odds I know, . Thing is I dont really care about e.t.'s. I have accepted that my car won't launch good so I figure I would work with what i got. I know your saying it's possible to do with a high stall (I am back and forth on this one) but as it is I already dont like the way the stock one feels, and if I got a higher stall one it would be even worse. That and brake boosting is terrible for cars, I have done it several times and I hate the strain it puts on every thing, fact I think my factory stall is almost toast. Just wanna build a 20-160 all out monster, respectively without ripping into the block just yet

This thread makes me upset. Your car is not that bad if you know how to drive and it is in good mechanical shape. Just becasue you cant seem to get what you want out of a car you shouldnt have bought doesnt meen it sucks. You car will launch if you do it right and loading the converter is alot less stressful than a hard slip of the clutch. If you want a topend monster then get a FWD and put a 60-1 on it. If you want a good 1/4 mile time then get an AWD. Either way a five speed is going to have a better gear spread so you will be in the power band alot more than if you had a 4 speed auto. Get a car for you specific purpose or quit complaining.

MIchael

 

[14.5 drift]

no complaints. Just makin the best of a situation. I do have and love owning an auto but it has it's limitations. I 'm just tryen to make it work the best it can for me. I want a highway king.



Being a gsx, it will still rip in 1rst and 2ond more so then a high hp fwd, so I'm happy


Just give me the recipes/pros cons.

 

[boostedinaz]

Well a FWD would be the best, but you will need to make a good amount of power so I would go with a 50 trim from almost any company. I really like AGP becasue they have alot of options. You could go with just a bolt on RS49, full Garrett, or full Garrett ball bearing, it just depends on your wallet. The Green from FP is very proven but a bit expensive for a botl on 50 trim. The you will just need the supporting mods and those you can search for. If you want to run race gas then I would go with a 60-1 and you will have plenty of topend. on either setup you will again need to make sure the tranny is up to the power. I would get a good shift kit for tight precise shifts and get a converter with a low stall speed.

Michael

 

[14.5 drift]

any suggestions for a ball bearing turbo?

 

[kpt4321]

An auto will do 2.0 60' times or less. Not 3.0.

110-120 mph is a HUGE freaking range. You can do 110 on a 14b, but it will take a 20g or larger to go 120 mph. That's a range of like, 300 to over 400 horsepower.

 

[DSMSPOON]

i would go with a precision turbo scm 32 or 50 since stock auto trans with out mods besides shift kit can only last to about 400 without major trouble...these turbos are good up to 400-450 hp

 

[14.5 drift]

I'm not tryen to be too specific here, being open to any thing in that range. I also have my doubts that a 14b would trap that high in an auto.

Basically all I want to do is hang/destroy a vette from a roll. I want 400hp at the crank, but this is where I am specific. I want 400 crank hp at 7000rpm. I really dont like it when the power turns on then dwindles out in the rpm range. What I want is when the power turns on for it to pull all the way through to the top like the n/a motors do. Hence looking for a bigger turbo.

 

[midnght]

Most of all of the turbo kits out there that I have seen "dwendle" off at around the 6.5k range. Sort of a peak and flatline.

Look in my gallery and you will see what it takes to "hang" with a vette. This graph is a completely stock 2G engine that has NEVER been opened for ANYTHING.

 

[14.5 drift]

i like your first graph better than the second but still good numbers. With some headers and cams you could probly extract another 25-30hp

 

[14.5 drift]

BTW how many lbs min does a 20g td06 flow?

 

[kpt4321]

Basically all I want to do is hang/destroy a vette from a roll.

There you go again.

"Hang with" a Vette is like 300 whp.

"Destroy" a Vette is about 450 whp.

Once again, huge range.

 

[kpt4321]

I want 400hp at the crank, but this is where I am specific. I want 400 crank hp at 7000rpm. I really dont like it when the power turns on then dwindles out in the rpm range. What I want is when the power turns on for it to pull all the way through to the top like the n/a motors do. Hence looking for a bigger turbo.

Not all N/A cars do that, just like some turbo cars do and some turbo cars do not. In fact, most N/A cars that are not designed to make a lot of power at high engine speeds will fall off just like a 4G63 with stock cams.

Your power curve is not really related to the turbo size, as much as it is related to the cams and intake and exhaust setup.

400 horsepower at the crank requires about 40 lb/min of peak flow, which an EvoIII 16g can do, and a TDO6H or TDO5H 20g will have no problem with.

If you want a good powerband up top, but things like 272's and a sheet metal intake manifold.

 

[kpt4321]

BTW how many lbs min does a 20g td06 flow?

45-50 lb/min maximum.

 

[14.5 drift]

Why you so informative and so cranky. Like it is too much bother to post but your obligated to flex you vast pool of information.

Either way, thanks. Your reponse has assured me of my setup. I have decided on a fp2544, hks 264's, a venom intake manifold and a full 3 inch turbo back exhaust. Dsm link for fuel control, 705's, walbro, fpr, and the ussual guages. After reading some stuff and comparing flow charts of intake manifolds it seems the manifold is largely responsible for top end drop off, not just the turbo. i hadn't really considered that before.

what do ya think of my plans?

 

[midnght]

Kyle is a great help. He is very informative. The cranky posts come from repetative questions within the same posts. The answers are there.

Thanks for the comp. about my graph. The first dyno is my tuned 89oct pull, it got me the most HP so far so more is there. The 2nd is a pic for all of the guys that think slapping on a bunch of shit and thnking they can make 300whp with NO tuning. That 286whp was made buy just slapping in my whole setup and tuning it enough to get me to the dyno to do a baseline pull with the new setup. I put it in my gallery after everyone kept coming up with the "How much HP am I making" posts.

Proof is in the tuning. Go with what you posted, just get yourself a set of 264/272 combos instead. You will like that better in the topend range for your 7k hp.

Good luck and have fun!

 

[NewB2dsm]

Man, this can be done on a 16g. And i dont know what graphs your looking at that look like shit with big lumps in the middle. Mine are very nice graphs. Ill post a picture later.

My 16g on pump gas trapped 107.29mph on pump gas, with race gas i hope to hit 110. A 20g should do what your asking pretty easy. Also a 50trim could do it as well. Biggest thing is tuneing. Tuneing makes all the difference in the world.

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to get a corrected HP you have to multiply by 1.17 Yea more torque than HP.. neat huh.

 

[14.5 drift]

That is nice, but mild. How much psi/lbs min was that at?

 

[NewB2dsm]

I think that was my race gas one.. 24psi and fading down to 19psi by redline. And i think you didnt read that you have to multipy that by 1.17 to get the true whp. that comes to 302.6awhp on that dyno. My pump gas one is 290awhp corrected.