engine Recipe

[1999DSM]

Hi all,

been looking for this info around but i wasn't good enough to get it.

So about 5 months ago i bought a 95 talon tsi shell... lucky enough i found a 4g63 na engine in a graveyard....

its a 7 bolts so heres the questions:

1. i bought 4 oil squirters from a member here (couldnt leave feedback but a perfect seller). is there anywhere a diagram of where they are installed?

2. ive read that the connection rods form the engine are the same for all 1g engines (will this apply to my rods? should i look for them part number?)

3. if i would rather buy a set of manley connecting rods and manley pistons should i ask for 2g rods? as an example in extremepsi.com if i list 1g dsm ill see 6 bolt connection rods and pistons... but if i list 2g dsm ill see 7 bolt connection rods for engines from 93 to 99... any input on this?

Thanks all in advance

 

[bryanwheat]

If you bought a non turbo 7 bolt block than there aren't any holes in it for the oil squirters. To run them you would have to have the block drilled and tapped. I would just not run them. You will have better oil supply to the rest of the engine. For the rods, your engine uses 7 bolt rods because it is a 7 bolt. 1g and 2g 7 bolt rods are exactly the same, just make sure to get 7 bolt rods.

 

[1999DSM]

If you bought a non turbo 7 bolt block than there aren't any holes in it for the oil squirters. To run them you would have to have the block drilled and tapped. I would just not run them. You will have better oil supply to the rest of the engine. For the rods, your engine uses 7 bolt rods because it is a 7 bolt. 1g and 2g 7 bolt rods are exactly the same, just make sure to get 7 bolt rods.

thakns for the reply...

so for a daily driver (hopefully weekend warrior) i would be better of without squirters and with "forged" pistons?

Im aiming for this:

Manley Performance H-Beam Steel Connecting Rods: Mitsubishi Eclipse 92-99 7-Bolt #22130

Manley Performance Pistons w/ Rings (8.5:1 C.R.): Mitsubishi Eclipse 7-Bolt #22672

i wont go over an E316G as its the turbo i wanted for my build... i guess this piston rod setup will handle it right? i do know it all depends on tunning (im not trying any bench racing here)

Also will the acl trimetal main and rod bearings work? i had the block checked and they told me its within factory spec.

Thanks

 

[T is for TURBO]

A build bottom end will (like what you have listed) handle more than any E16g will ever be able to throw at it (so long as the tune is good) A stock bottem end will be more than enought for an E16g.

I'm not tring to make you change your mind, but if you TRUELY are not going to go bigger than a 16g, a built bottom end is not needed. But if your like most everyone else here, the 16g will get boring real quick. At which point haveing the bottom end built will save you in the long run if you decide to move to a bigger turbo.

ACL or Clevite should be fine.

 

[1999DSM]

A build bottom end will (like what you have listed) handle more than any E16g will ever be able to throw at it (so long as the tune is good) A stock bottem end will be more than enought for an E16g.

I'm not tring to make you change your mind, but if you TRUELY are not going to go bigger than a 16g, a built bottom end is not needed. But if your like most everyone else here, the 16g will get boring real quick. At which point haveing the bottom end built will save you in the long run if you decide to move to a bigger turbo.

about the fact of not installing the squirters... i would be safe with this manley setup?

i know i can get a set of evo pistons and will be more than fine but i would need to put the squirters then, or am i wrong?

and surely i guess if i decide to go bigger i would have already built the bottom end...

im just concerned about the squirters... the engine shop recomends no to put them and i really wont like to get my block to an "under the tree" shop to get them machined :/ (this engine shop is the best rated in my country)

 

[T is for TURBO]

I can't say yes or no to the oil squirters for cast (stock) pistons, though I personaly would have them there if I went with a stock piston. However, if you go forged, you won't need the squirters at all. Is there a reason why the shop doesn't want to add the squirters?

 

[1999DSM]

they dont want to drill and tap the block so they dont mess it... but well i guess forged is the road.

also i read somewhere else that i need to check for a sensor plug (knock sensor?) in the block that some na engine didn't brought...

 

[T is for TURBO]

Correct. Search on here for the proper location. Just drill and tap for the knock sensor. I know its been discussed on here before, you'll just have to do a little digging.

Forged internals is always a good investment if you want a stout engine. Just remember that they need to be warmed up fully before boosting them (I don't even move my car until its at full operating temp). Also, they burn oil faster than a cast piston, so be sure to keep an eye on your oil level.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

 

[1999DSM]

Correct. Search on here for the proper location. Just drill and tap for the knock sensor. I know its been discussed on here before, you'll just have to do a little digging.

Forged internals is always a good investment if you want a stout engine. Just remember that they need to be warmed up fully before boosting them (I don't even move my car until its at full operating temp). Also, they burn oil faster than a cast piston, so be sure to keep an eye on your oil level.

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk

They burn oil faster?

even without the squirters?

 

[T is for TURBO]

They burn oil faster?

even without the squirters?

Yeah, since forged pistons have a greater sidewall clearance, they burn more oil. Shouldn't be much, but keep an eye on it.

 

[duecevr4]

I've seen the oil squirter debate go on for ions. To my understanding the squirters are for COOLING, not lubrication. If your air/fuel is correct, and you're cooling the air, in my climate, it's not an issue to run turbo cast pistons going bigger than a 16g. I'm bettin' where you are in Central America, it may be a wee bit hotter. I'd say go forged. For the couple hundred dollars extra you'll spend, it's ease of mind. And for drilling the block, it's should be simple for a machine shop to do. Doesn't have to be precise like crank or cylinder wall clearences. But I like the higher oil pressure personally.

 

[herms99gst]

If you bought a non turbo 7 bolt block than there aren't any holes in it for the oil squirters. To run them you would have to have the block drilled and tapped. I would just not run them. You will have better oil supply to the rest of the engine. For the rods, your engine uses 7 bolt rods because it is a 7 bolt. 1g and 2g 7 bolt rods are exactly the same, just make sure to get 7 bolt rods.

Are go with 6 bolt rods and the manley pistons. Ther are plenty of 20g and bigger turbo cars running stock 6 bolt rods with some arps on here. This will save you 300 dollars that can go to a 68hta :thumbup:And as for the oil squirters use them if you want to drill and tap the block, if not dont use them.

 

[1999DSM]

ok so my rods are from a 7 bolt... i can get a set of evo 8 pistons here in my country for $100 (ive seen piston rods combos for $150 in ebay </3 but there are none by this time)...

so now i got to get the car running, im not planning on racing it as its my daily driver (and i just want to restore it, not modify it by now)

was thinking of:

evo pistons, my rods and acl clevite main and rod bearings (will acl clevite bearings work with my rods? ) oh also a new set of oem rings for the pistons. Will i need to get a new set of wrist pins? or will the ones i got with the pistons work?

so far the recipe is:

stock crank

stock rods + evo 8 pistons with acl clevite main and rod bearings.

cometic head gasket + cometic complete gasket set for a 1g 7 bolt engine.

ARP Headtuds, (rod studs also?)

new oem water pump, i had the oil pump that came with the engine checked they told me its ok but i know i gotta start the engine and check the oil pressure to ensure it works fine.

as for the head, i need to change the exhaust valve guides (will change for ferrea)

i can get a set of evo 1 camshafts with cam gears for $100 in my country... or will my stock cams work just fine?

yesterday i just realized that the intake manifold that came with the engine is the same as the 2g turbo eclipse... i don't really know the year for my engine but do you guys think its a 95 + 4g63?

engine number is 4g63 SD7894...

Im about to order the bearings and the gasket set and cant really afford to get this wrong