rebuild questions

[more1Gpleez]

i've been doin alot of reading and searching and my eyes hurt now. . so i have a 91 tsi awd that had a low compression #4. i tore the motor apart....just dropped the head/pistons/rods off at the shop to have checked. gonna have the pistons n rods checked to make sure they're ok and standard size so i know what size rod bearings/piston rings to get. and the head is just gonna get cleaned, checked, and resurfaced. the motor will basically be stock with the exception of the crower 280 cams. i'm looking into acl rod bearings, and i'm undecided on which would be the best way to go on the piston rings.
there are arp head bolts installed....and i'm debating on either a stock felpro headgasket or mls gasket. i know to go by stock specs/sequence on tq specs....i don't have arp moly...i use lucas oil additive for assembly so hit them with 120 ft lb then? my plans are gonna be 500hp at the tops....i want a streetable 400ish hp.

and i've been thinking about which oils to go with.....motor, transfer case, tranny, and rear end. just stick with stock specs...10w40, 75w85, 80w90. any best proven brands as far as gear oil goes???

and has anybody figured if the 00+ gsxr COPs work as well or better than the 300/intrepid coils??

 

[ROOKIE1]

According to the website , it is recomended that you not use stock springs and retainers with the 280's . The 272's are a different story .

 

[more1Gpleez]

i'll check wit my bud. it was his bro's car and he built it back then.....i'll check to see if they are stock springs or not. i would hope not ### yeah, 280s are big and stock springs wouldn't hold up well.

 

[coryd]

how are the cylanders walls??? I would take your block in and get it check out too.

 

[awesome_asim187]

so you are going to use stock rods?

 

[more1Gpleez]

the walls looked good....nothin out the norm. no nicks, heavy scratches, pits....the block is still in the car with the trans. it has the stock BIG rods that i'll still use. i'll use the stock pistons too. just gettin new rod bearings and piston rings.

 

[Daveed]

there are arp head bolts installed....and i'm debating on either a stock felpro headgasket or mls gasket.

and i've been thinking about which oils to go with.....motor, transfer case, tranny, and rear end. just stick with stock specs...10w40, 75w85, 80w90. any best proven brands as far as gear oil goes???

MLS headgasket for sure.
The tech section with "paths" has some really good info if you hadn't spotted that yet. It basically gives you the recipe for the power level you want.


For oils you can check the DSM VFAQ website. The following is from my own archives I've saved off of the web. I didn't write this but found it helpful enough to save.

"GL-4 spec oil must be used in the transmission. Do not use a GL-5 spec oil or you will damage the synchros, the GL-5 additives are corrosive to the brass synchros. Three brands have been found to work best, Red Line MTL (or MT90, which fits DSM spec better), BG Synchroshift, and GM Synchromesh (not actually produced by General Motors). All have their followings. Some cars work better with one and some with another. It can be said with certainty that any of the 3 will improve shifting and transmission life dramatically over standard gear oil. This has been found at the factory too. If you suffer notching shifting and some gear grind, especially when cold, these products will help. If your transmission is notchy all the time and several gears grind, you may have to have synchros replaced or the transmission rebuilt.
For AWD cars, GL-4 or GL-5 synthetic will work for the transfer case and rear end. Redline or any of the synthetic gear oils will work fine here. 75W90 seems to be recommended.
(TS: Note: I personally run MT90 in the tranny and transfer case (so 3 quarts just about perfectly fill the tranny and transfer) and Redline 75W85 gear oil for the rear diff. Redline recommends a mix of MTL/MT90 for DSM trannies, I think straight MT90 works better in warmer climates. The colder the climate, the higher percentage of MTL you'll probably want. People in really cold climates seem to have best luck with straight MTL.)
More info:
Redline MTL/MT90 info
Key passage:
"Most manufacturers of manual transmissions and transaxles recommend an 80W or 90W GL-4 lubricant. GL-5 gears oils which are required in hypoid differentials are not used in most synchromesh transmissions because the chemicals used to provide the extreme pressure protection can be corrosive to synchronizers, which are commonly made of brass or bronze. Typically, the use of a GL-5 lubricant in a synchromesh transmission will shorten the synchronizer life by one half."
Pennzoil info
Key passage:
"If an API GL-5 gear oil is used in a application where API GL-4 gear oil is called for, chemical corrosion of "yellow metal" components may occur, such as bronze synchronizers, brass bushings, etc. This may lead to shifting difficulties or shortened equipment life." "

 

[more1Gpleez]

thanx a bunch daveed. i just finished readin a buncha posts on that too. i'm gonna go with mt90 for the trans and heavy shockproof for the t-case and rear end. a mls head gasket should be ok for a good block and resurfaced head.....? i'm looking into the ACL alumaglide *orwhatever* rod bearings and ###### go with clevite piston rings unless i can find better for a good deal. as far as gettin the other gaskets.....are those cheap full gasket kits ok stuff as far as the valve cover, oil pan, intake and exhaust gaskets go? and i'm goin with a gatorback belt for the t-belt.....and imma check the idlers when i go to the shop again......now im tryna figure if gsxr coil on plugs will work good/better ### i can pick a set up for like $25 or so....but i gotta couple places to look on monday for some intrepid/300 coils....see how much they want.

 

[black91awdturbo]

If you are looking for 400-500hp you would be crazy to put the block back together stock since its already tore apart. Yes it can handle 400hp but if its not in top shape it will not last! And since its taken apart I am willing to bet thats the case. You could get eagle rods and forged pistons cheap these days I would suggest it. That way you know the block will hold together for some time!
Oh and if you use any thing other than an oem t-belt you are asking for it! If you dont think I am right pm most any "wise man" on this site. Or simply search Gatorback timing belt you will find some who had them last for a decent amount of time. And others who had the fail right off the bat! Also make sure to change every timing componet while you are in there not just the belt.
And for the cop set up for the kinda hp you want to make save the trouble and get some good ngk wires/plugs and call it a day. Your best bet would be to read and learn then put the car together it will save you time and money!

 

[more1Gpleez]

well if i had 800 to spend on rods n pistons i would. but i don't. . my friend has dayco belts on 3 of his dsm's with no problems so idk. i will tear into the motor again and build it up later when i want to go for more power but i should be fine with what i have/going with for 400ish numbers on the street. so ## sayin mitsu belt is the best one to go with? gotchassssss