Rebuild question, searching has been my friend.

[Big Willy]

Before I start, could an Admin help me out and let me know why it is that I can still only post in the newbie forum?


Ok, now I was hoping you guys could help me out and answer a couple questions for me. Let me start off by saying (before anyone else does) that for the past week, that little search button up there in the corner and the one over at DSMtalk have been my best friends, that along with pages like RRE; the VFAQ; and many others I have learned A LOT about specifics when rebuilding the 4G. But there are still a couple things that I either couldn't find or are so contradicting to one another that I just have to post to get a compilation here in one spot. Some of these questions may seem stupid or obvious but I'm just trying to be 110% sure before I start spinning wrenches. Like everyone says, Do it right, Do it once.

MY SITUATION
I'm rebuilding my 92 GSX 6 bolt. I plan on going kinda mild with my setup while keeping reliability in mind. So I'm gonna stick with the much repeated, tried and true 2G piston on 1G rod setup. Especially since I have 3 parts cars so I already have the parts for it. Here is my basic list of parts I'll be adding over stock:

1G big rods
2G pistons
ARP head studs
MLS HG <-- Some will argue but after hours or reading, I chose to go with the MLS
Balance shaft elimination
Clevite 77 Main and rod bearings
Decking block and head for perfect straightness

QUESTIONS
1. In VFAQ it says that not only does the wrist pin bore need to be honed out 1mm, but the pin end of the rod needs to be narrowed .100" But in all the posts I've read everyone only mentions honing the wrist pin bore. Is the narrowing also [spelling]nessasary[/spelling]?
2. VFAQ also states "You need to modify the front engine mount a tiny bit in order to use the ARP head studs". Again, in no posts have I heard of anyone doing this.
3. Does anyone have the casting numbers for the big rods and the 2G pistons? Like I said, just want to be 110% sure.
4. And the proper final torque on the ARP head studs seems to me a much debated subject. Many posts contradict one another quite a bit on this one. I've seen 80, 85, 90, 95, and even 105ft-lbs. I plan on running about 20psi eventually and plrobably a 50 trim at some time so I just want to be prepared for it when I get the money. So what should final torque be?


Sorry for such a long post but if you took the time to read it and have any suggestions... Thank You.

 

[SinaiTSi]

2. Yes, you will need to modify the front engine mount. The reason for this is because you thread on the studs in the block before the head goes on, this means that you must drop the head on vertically straight and the motor mount is in the way a bit, before with the stock head bolts, the whole bolt comes out, so you can manuever the head around this mount. I do believe that it is on vfaq how to do it.

4. You will most likely be fine with any one of those torque specifications, but I suggest torqueing them down to 100 ft./lbs. gradually and in sequence, i.e. 30 - 65 - 100 ft./lbs. Just in case you don't know the sequence.

7 5 2 4 10
9 3 1 6 8

 

[Big Willy]

Thanks for the reply man

2. Yes, you will need to modify the front engine mount. The reason for this is because you thread on the studs in the block before the head goes on, this means that you must drop the head on vertically straight and the motor mount is in the way a bit, before with the stock head bolts, the whole bolt comes out, so you can manuever the head around this mount. I do believe that it is on vfaq how to do it.

Even if building the motor outside of the car? Guess I'll just take the plasma cutter and trim it up anyway, just incase it causes problems later.

4. You will most likely be fine with any one of those torque specifications, but I suggest torqueing them down to 100 ft./lbs. gradually and in sequence, i.e. 30 - 65 - 100 ft./lbs. Just in case you don't know the sequence.

7 5 2 4 10
9 3 1 6 8

I figured I would go to either 90 or 100. I just wasn't sure since it contradicts ARP's instructions. And my manual is my best friend so I have the sequence, but thanks

 

[luvmygst]

This will help with the rods.
http://hometown.aol.com/rcm1061/myhomepage/auto.htm
When you buy ARP studs it has the torque specs listed on the paperwork, I think it was like 85ft/lbs but dont quote me on that. Good luckl

 

[SinaiTSi]

Even if building the motor outside of the car? Guess I'll just take the plasma cutter and trim it up anyway, just incase it causes problems later.

Yeah, they're might be ways that you could work around it especially since it will be out of the car but I wouldn't suggest it. Cutting the mount is no big deal and really took me no time at all, like you said, it could possibly cause problems later and you really don't want that.

 

[wret]

Before I start, could an Admin help me out and let me know why it is that I can still only post in the newbie forum?

Your rep points and post count are low.

 

[Big Willy]

This will help with the rods.
http://hometown.aol.com/rcm1061/myhomepage/auto.htm
When you buy ARP studs it has the torque specs listed on the paperwork, I think it was like 85ft/lbs but dont quote me on that. Good luckl

Sorry, We Can't Find That Page
You might try retyping the URL, or searching below

WTF

Your rep points and post count are low.

k, thanks . So reguardless of wether or not you've been a member for 2 years, if you haven't posted much then your still forced to post in the Newbie section?

 

[luvmygst]

I dont know why the link doesnt work, but this is what is leads to. Hope it helps