Rebuild Done, Engine finally started!

[TommyDSM]

My rebuild is done, after 3 years.

I have started the car up 2 times now, each time letting it fully warm up.
After my second start up I did a compression test and I have ~180PSI across the board. Is that good? Just wondering because I've heard people who just rebuild and after taking car out for a ride only getting ~150...

Tomorrow I plan on finishing putting everything back together and taking it out for a spin.

I have already done an oil change, I don't see metal chips. but oil color is a little different
Color is kinda greenish. But I think it might be all the lube i have in the system mixed with the oil... Yes?

Wondering after taking my car out tomorrow, should I re torque my ARP head studs? I heard some shops doing it. How many people do this?

 

[98GSXtreme07]

Yes. The green is normal from all of the lube you used in your build. Also you should retorque your ARP's after something like 300 miles I believe. Anyone is welcomed to correct me on this.

 

[bluegs03]

basically it cant hurt to retighten your arp's because they shouldnt be loose, but it cant hurt to check em. Just go at em with a torque wrench set at the specified torque and make sure they are all nice and snug. Grats on the engine start up and the great compresson!

 

[TommyDSM]

Great! What I needed to know. Thanks guys.
Also re torquing them is just making sure they are at the same torque as last right? Not loosening and re tighten them?

 

[98GSXtreme07]

I think so. I want to say when your "re"torquing them you do it at 90lb.

 

[Freerevving]

yes, do not loosen them before retorquing

After the engine heat cycles, the head will settle more firmly on the block... loosening the torque on the nuts...

A lot of people just warm the engine up, wait 30 min then retorque and you're done

 

[desolateboosted]

You do not need to retorque them if they were installed and torqued properly the first time.

 

[Freerevving]

You do not need to retorque them if they were installed and torqued properly the first time.

that is true... and that's the point of torquing to 90-100 lbs.ft

they will loosen up, but if you have them torqued right the first time, it doesn't matter

Some people want to maintain 95 lbs.ft for high boost... So they tighten to 100lbs ft and when they come back they're somewhere at 90, and then tighten up to 95... I'm about to tighten my new project to 90lbs.ft , then again to 90lbs.ft once it's heat cycled
I've tightened twice on every headgasket I've done... they will lose torque weather you heat cyle them or not... heat just speeds up the settling so you can retoque sooner

re-torquing is not a requirement... the manufacturer takes into account that the head will settle and the gasket will compress... so they purposely give you a specification that is higher than needed... Retorquing is just a perfectionist-type obsessive thing that reduces your chances for error

I read somewhere that a guy tightened to 80 lbs ft and when he took the valve cover off 100 miles later, some of the nuts were hand tight.... He probably did something else wrong, but it's proof that they will lose torque

If you're using a metal headgasket, it will compress much more than stock composite gasket... I recommend torquing higher than the 80 lbs.ft spec on ARP's

 

[TommyDSM]

So I got two oil changes.
My second oil change I can see fine metal chips at the bottom of the oil maybe acouple little bigger metal chips. Is this normal?
I have maybe 2 heat cycles and 10 miles on the motor now.

When should I stop seeing these chips?

Also this is the new setup

6-Bolt .020 Over, Eagle/Wiesco (9.0:1), no BS, Head P&P, 3 Angle Valve Job, FP Dual Springs, Ferrea Comp Valves, FP2x Cams, 3rd Gen Lifters, Fidanza Cam Gears, ARP Headstuds/Main, SBR GT11, SBR Manifold w/38mm Tial Wastegate, Apexi N1 Turbo Back Exhaust, Buschur Street FMIC, Dejon Tool 2g Intake, 2g Mas, 1g BOV, ReWire Walbro 255HP, AEM Fuel Rail, -6AN Feed Line, FIC 950cc, AFPR @ 43 PSI, Bored (63mm) 1g Throttle FIAV Block Off, Magnus Race Intake Manifold, External Oil Cooler, Ported Oil Filter Housing, Fluidampr Pulley, GM3Bar, LC-1, Magnecore 8.5 Wires, NGK BR7ES, ACT 2600 w/Street Disc & ACT Xact FlyWheel

I notice this engine is alot louder then before. I'm sure its because of the upgrade head components, Just wondering if anyone elses with same mods also loud. I think my motor is louder then my exhaust! Ive been told it sounds like a muscle car...

 

[Freerevving]

I notice this engine is alot louder then before. I'm sure its because of the upgrade head components, Just wondering if anyone elses with same mods also loud. I think my motor is louder then my exhaust! Ive been told it sounds like a muscle car...

You haven't ran your engine long enough for it to be quiet.... takes time for all the air to leave the lifters....

You can never change your oil too much, but you don't need to change it as often as you are... After it's broken in, it shouldn't be that much louder than stock, but if it is, it might just be your pistons making noise because they require more clearance than stock...

Is your exhaust manifold leaking? Just to be sure, I'd take a look at your exhaust manifold since you're comparing it to the exhaust note

 

[TommyDSM]

You haven't ran your eninge long enough for it to be quiet.... takes time for all the air to leave the lifters....

You can never change your oil too much, but you don't need to change it as often as you are... After it's broken in, it shouldn't be that much louder than stock, but if it is, it might just be your pistons making noise because they require more clearance than stock...

Is your exhaust manifold leaking? Just to be sure, I'd take a look at your exhaust manifold since you're comparing it to the exhaust note

The head sounds loud... not the bottom half.
I dont think my exhaust manifold is leaking, but I'll check.

 

[Freerevving]

The head sounds loud... not the bottom half.
I dont think my exhaust manifold is leaking, but I'll check.

Most likely your lifters need to fill up

I would take that car on a spirited drive before changing the oil...

Basically I get the car started for the first time, make sure everything is hooked up right and running right... after I'm 100% sure, I take it on a clear road for about 5 or 6 pulls between 2000-4500 rpm... then I drive it around like a grandma for about 10 miles... then I change the oil.... then I drive the car very gently for about 300 miles (couple pulls here and there)... then I change the oil again and I'm ready for action... I still won't run the car at 100% for about 1000 miles

New cars are ran for a while before they make it to the dealership... otherwise they'd be noisier than hell

 

[TommyDSM]

Most likely your lifters need to fill up

I would take that car on a spirited drive before changing the oil...

Basically I get the car started for the first time, make sure everything is hooked up right and running right... after I'm 100% sure, I take it on a clear road for about 5 or 6 pulls between 2000-4500 rpm... then I drive it around like a grandma for about 10 miles... then I change the oil.... then I drive the car very gently for about 300 miles (couple pulls here and there)... then I change the oil again and I'm ready for action... I still won't run the car at 100% for about 1000 miles

New cars are ran for a while before they make it to the dealership... otherwise they'd be noisier than hell

Thats basiclly what I did... I prime oil system, had oil coming out of the lifters at the head. Ive started it twice letting it fully warm up and double checked everything, then took it out last nite and did acouple pulls from 2k to 4k and decel for about 10 miles and babied it home, and changed the oil. So I guess I need to take ti easy on it for the next acouple hundred miles....

 

[mccurdy]

some people take it easy on the new engines, some people beat the crap out of them from the start. Both methods have had great success.

I also believe if u tighten the studs down right the 1st time u wont need to do it again.

do a search on here about engine break in. You'll be suprised what you read works.

 

[Freerevving]

I finally decided that it depends on your piston clearance.... If you are running a tight clearance on forged pistons like I am (mahle, .002) then I would be somewhat easy on the engine... no" beating the crap out of" it... after the hone wears on the rings a little, there should be and extra .0005 clearance making it safer to "beat the crap out of"

If you are running looser clearance then push it hard now... I just wouldn't go redlining it

 

[TommyDSM]

I finally decided that it depends on your piston clearance.... If you are running a tight clearance on forged pistons like I am (mahle, .002) then I would be somewhat easy on the engine... no" beating the crap out of" it... after the hone wears on the rings a little, there should be and extra .0005 clearance making it safer to "beat the crap out of"

If you are running looser clearance then push it hard now... I just wouldn't go redlining it

I think i'm around .0035...

 

[kahl23]

What I was told is that the rings need to properly seat with the piston walls, and that the best way to do this was to go WOT just until you hit boost and then to back off and repeat doing this for something like 100 miles, varying the engine speed and load. Apparently the boost forces the rings against the cylinder walls and that's what makes them seat. Just my .02, good luck with the break in.