The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Rear Main & Groove in Crankshaft

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

squeak104

20+ Year Contributor
390
6
Mar 16, 2005
Jasper, Indiana
So I just inherited a short block but have a problem. Where the rear main seal rides there is a groove cut in the crank. Below is a picture of the crank. I know they make redi-sleeves for harmonic dampners for other vehicles but I've never heard of one for the back of the crank.

So far I've come up with two options: (1) Double, possibly triple the gasket on the plate that holds the rear main and slot the bolts for the oil pan to move the seal away from the groove. (2) I've heard that Hapco Rebuilders here in Indiana can weld the crank then turn it back down to the original size eliminating the groove. But I'm not certain, I'll be calling them tomorrow to find out for sure.

Anyone else ever run into this problem?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Man, that's pretty common honestly, I haven'taheard of any cures or fixes for it, but i can say the groove in my current crank looks similar to that (and so was my last one) and neither leaked :)

But what stumps me is that if these cranks are supposed to be nitrided and have to be re-nitride hardened after machining, then why the hell is the rear main seal part osft enough for a rubber seal to wear through?

As for your options... I like the first one, but wonder about room between the block and flywheel.. but i've got a spare to experiment on if i remember when i rbing the flywheel for it over here to have the engine complete before mounting it up on a stand where it can be ran.

The second one,, as a weldor I know this is possible, but i've heard so much talk about having to re-nitride the crank after any welding or machining that i'm not sure how feasible that becomes sincei dont' know what the cost of nitriding is.
 
After speaking with Hapco Rebuilders he said they have quite a few crankshafts there with grooves in them that don't leak. He said I should be alright no leaks, as long as there aren't any nicks in the groove that can tear the seal. As long as I have the clearance between the plate and the flywheel I'm probably going to try to bring the seal outward just to be on the safe side.
 
Just like Glen said. When I rebuilt my engine my crank had a similar groove. All is fine and there are no leaks. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
I had the same groove on my crank on a past rebuild as well.. put it all together and it was fine for me.
 
Yeah I had that groove too. My machinist told me to add a thicker gasket...but im not to worried about it.


But what stumps me is that if these cranks are supposed to be nitrided and have to be re-nitride hardened after machining, then why the hell is the rear main seal part soft enough for a rubber seal to wear through?

There is actually metal in the seal underneath the rubber...I found that out when I tried to cut one off with tin snips. NOT so easy to cut.
 
Yeah I had that groove too. My machinist told me to add a thicker gasket...but im not to worried about it.




There is actually metal in the seal underneath the rubber...I found that out when I tried to cut one off with tin snips. NOT so easy to cut.

Is the metal in the lip that provides the seal or are you just talking about the external diameter? I know there's some metal in the seal, but i didn't think there was any that could actually contact the crankshaft where the rubber part does.
 
Yea there is a metal spring behind the rubber. It's to help keep the rubber in contact with the metal surface it's sealing. If anything it might actually seal better with the groove since it will have a place to bed into.
 
Okay I cut my old rear main seal in half. (my crank was scored from THIS EXACT SEAL)Sorry for the blurry pic. But it clearly shows NO metal should be in contact with the crank.

So that Kevlar type rubber must be cutting into the crank. I guess it's tough shit.

My Machinist seems to think that is Normal. And seeing as we all have the groove I guess it can't be too bad.

Do they sell and undersized rear main seals? So you could have the crank milled and polished to remove that groove?
Also, why doesn't the front seal make any grooves?? :hmm:
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g Eclipse/Talon Parts lot
    95-99 2G Eclipse/Talon Misc. Parts lot
    • Sdcryan1
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top