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rear control arm bushings

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BigRand

15+ Year Contributor
2,181
32
Nov 17, 2004
Toronto, Ontario_Canada
Okay so I just bought a camber kit, ball joints upfront, and the shim bracket kits in the back. I had a shop attempt to start pulling stuff off, and in the back they said thet the rear bushings (where the control arm and knucle connect) (and where the stock brackets connect) were completely siezed up and that they would have to cut the bolts in order to get it off....

They reccommended that I go with polyurathane bushings in the back so I was wondering where would be a good place to buy them at a good price....and I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to buy more then I need...I just want them for the rear left and right sides.
 
Why were they removing the bushings to install shims?
 
I got my rear upper control arm to knuckle bushings from mitsubishi graveyard. I sent him a pick with the name (rear upper control arm to knuckle bushings) and i got them for 54.99 shipped.
 
Why were they removing the bushings to install shims?

Here's what I was tempted to write:

That's what I can't stand about these so-called "forums." A guy asks a very specific question and you go and ask a new question. What are you, some kind of Freudian ball-shrinker?

Here's what I'm going to write:

The OP didn't just get shims and longer bolts. It seems he got new brackets with cams. Bet the shop was in a hurry and ripped up at least one bushing while unbolting the upper A-arm from the stock brackets. So now the OP gets to buy new bushings. After this is done, the shop will probably discover that the toe-arm eccentrics are seized and the car can't be aligned. After all, the toe arms are usually the first to seize and, if the upper A-arms are seized, then....

- Jtoby
 
What are you, some kind of Freudian ball-shrinker?
Damn, Jtoby, here I am trying to be all subtle, and stimulate a little thought and understanding, and you have to go and reveal the strings.

What I'm trying to figure out is, after years of discussion of the effective, low-cost solution to rear camber adjustment (washers and bolts), why are people still buying the cam-bolt brackets.

I guess they still would have torn the toe adjustment bushings when they tried to align it.
 
Yeah the toe adjustment in the front right wheel was seized, but it was replaced when they fixed my tie rod end bolts.

I think that the shop that I went to just had an in experienced guy trying to take everything out and when he went to go knock the bushings out, he found it was taking to long...nothing was torn in the back and nothing is "yet".

Does anyone know where I can get a good picture diagram of the rear control arm assembly?
 
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What I'm trying to figure out is, after years of discussion of the effective, low-cost solution to rear camber adjustment (washers and bolts), why are people still buying the cam-bolt brackets.

I blame the NEA (as in: National Education Association), since this union helps bad math teachers to keep their jobs. Kids these days are not learning trig, so they can't calculate how thick a spacer to put in, so it becomes trial-and-error, which costs a lot in alignments.

Why people on Tuners are buying these parts is beyond me, since we have posted the solution several times.

- Jtoby
.
 
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