The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G Front Lower Control Arm Bushings

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

paper_clip_boy

15+ Year Contributor
132
3
Nov 24, 2005
Ottawa,
Mine are shot and its to the point where it would scare me to open it up on a long flat road.

My question is, are they a pain in the ass to change? I need to do a bit more front end work so should I just wait and replace my driver side CV axle and both lower balljoints and those bushings all at once? Or should I hold off even longer and wait until I install AGX's and lowering springs?

BTW, I have access to a lift and a full shop.
 
If you're mechanically inclined it's a very easy thing to do. You probably want to take the axles out so you have easier access to the ball joint nut, it's more work but it's definitely faster. Overall I'd say it's a 2 hour job for both sides.
 
paper_clip_boy said:
Mine are shot and its to the point where it would scare me to open it up on a long flat road.

My question is, are they a pain in the ass to change? I need to do a bit more front end work so should I just wait and replace my driver side CV axle and both lower balljoints and those bushings all at once? Or should I hold off even longer and wait until I install AGX's and lowering springs?

BTW, I have access to a lift and a full shop.

When you replace the axle you are going to have to re-fill the transmission. If I had access to a lift and full shop I would do them all together since you have to pull the axles out of the knuckle to gain access to the balljoints and lower control arm anyway. Two- Three hours depending on skill level. Fix the axle and bushings first. Putting in the drop springs would be pretty easy at this time also since they are just hanging there: only five bolts to get thoses off and in, just takes more time.......why not do the tie rod ends too!!! We've gone through all the bushings and joints in the front suspension that i can think of allready except for those. hahaha.
 
You don't need to take the axles out to take the lower control arm off. There is enough room to get the ball joint nut off. I had both of mine done in an hour.
 
Ya good point Auto RS T. Considering I get all parts at cost ( even performance SWEEET) it would make sense to just go ahead and replace the tie rod ends.

So what you guys are saying is that to replace those lower control arm bushings I have to remove the lower control arms from the car? It would make the ball joint replacement easier but Im always sketchy on removing a lot of bolts from the car because I really hate breaking bolts.

Im trying to buy a parts car right now so maybe I'll look at the lower control arms on the car and just swap them over.
 
paper_clip_boy said:
Ya good point Auto RS T. Considering I get all parts at cost ( even performance SWEEET) it would make sense to just go ahead and replace the tie rod ends.

So what you guys are saying is that to replace those lower control arm bushings I have to remove the lower control arms from the car? It would make the ball joint replacement easier but Im always sketchy on removing a lot of bolts from the car because I really hate breaking bolts.

Im trying to buy a parts car right now so maybe I'll look at the lower control arms on the car and just swap them over.

Just spray the bolts with PB blaster for a few days before you decide to take control arms out and they shouldnt break. If you swap the parts you still have to take the same amount of bolts out. Keeping the bolts in order isnt that hard, just take your time and do one side at a time if you don't feel comfortable. Get a clean piece of paper or a small tray and organize the bolts in a way that you know you will remember. You could even draw a rough outline of the arm on paper and put the bolts on top of the outline where they go.
 
There's only 4 bolts that hold each control arm in mixing them up would be impossible. They are all clearly different sizes.
 
GVR4592 said:
There's only 4 bolts that hold each control arm in mixing them up would be impossible. They are all clearly different sizes.
That would be 2 bolts and 2 nuts.:)
 
Ok I need to replace mine but someone said that getting them out was easy but putting the ball joint back in is a pain in the ass. He said they will never fit all the way back in even with a press. How do you get the ball joints in with out a press.

Mine are so bad they squeek when I turn, so I lube them up with oil every week to make it stop. Its so annoying
 
I know we used this technique at work.

Throw the new baljoints in the freezer for a good long time until the are really cold and heat up the hole around where the new balljoints are going in on the control arm. Install them in the arm when it is nicely heated then let it return to room temperature or cool with water.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top