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lilrob2069

10+ Year Contributor
213
0
Apr 26, 2010
Battle Creek, Michigan
Ok so i have looked for 3 hours trying to find an idea of why I am running rich. I have eliminated the boost solenoid, put in a boost gauge, just did the oil change and put on a new turbo back exhaust. Since all this it is smoking and i can smell gas any help please.
 
This thread is made of so much fail.

1. Replace your turbo, stop believing stupid things like if it's a bad turbo it will leak under boost.

2. Find your exhaust leak, and stop telling us it is or is not running LEAN until you put a logger and Wideband on it.

3. If the guide seals are bad you would get blow-by, mostly right on start up and when you go from WOT to no throttle. If anything this is most likely bad rings, but until you replace the turbo with one that isn't taking a walk in the park, stop posting here, before long you will be getting told by some idiot that it is crankwalk.
 
Like stated we need more info.

Your friends oil BS is exactly that... BS. I run 0w-20 Castrol Edge in all of my DSM's during the winter and have never had a problem with the oil "thinning" out and seeping past the rings..
 
This thread is made of so much fail.

1. Replace your turbo, stop believing stupid things like if it's a bad turbo it will leak under boost.

2. Find your exhaust leak, and stop telling us it is or is not running LEAN until you put a logger and Wideband on it.

3. If the guide seals are bad you would get blow-by, mostly right on start up and when you go from WOT to no throttle. If anything this is most likely bad rings, but until you replace the turbo with one that isn't taking a walk in the park, stop posting here, before long you will be getting told by some idiot that it is crankwalk.

hahaha funny but tru.... do a compression test already...and changed that lifter...let us kno what you find
 
This thread is made of so much fail.

1. Replace your turbo, stop believing stupid things like if it's a bad turbo it will leak under boost.

2. Find your exhaust leak, and stop telling us it is or is not running LEAN until you put a logger and Wideband on it.

3. If the guide seals are bad you would get blow-by, mostly right on start up and when you go from WOT to no throttle. If anything this is most likely bad rings, but until you replace the turbo with one that isn't taking a walk in the park, stop posting here, before long you will be getting told by some idiot that it is crankwalk.

Ok i get what your saying. No I do not have an exhaust leak. Kind of hard to replace a turbo when You don't really have the money at the moment (Christmas Kids come First) To buy a logger and a wideband would be way out of the question right now. Now I'm trying to get ideas of why. I understand it's difficult to try and answer questions without know full detail. But When your limited on things and can't just go out and do shit like some people. It's kind of hard to just replace this or change this. Or buy this to be able to find out what your problem is.

Like stated we need more info.

Your friends oil BS is exactly that... BS. I run 0w-20 Castrol Edge in all of my DSM's during the winter and have never had a problem with the oil "thinning" out and seeping past the rings..

I understand the oil situation. Mine smokes after 10 minutes of idling. Once driving for 5 seconds it stops. Then after driving and let it idle again it smokes. Now It has done this in warm temps not just winter. Now like i said i have heard and was shown by some people that they run 15w40 because it is thicker. And possibly my rings are worn so the 10w30 is too thin. If i run the 15w40 and it stops it is possible it's the rings, or valve seals. At this point im trying to eliminate possibilities, Now i have to do a Comp test and leak down for sure and now that i have a bad lifter i might as well change the seals while i am at it. My main concern was is it possible to run 15w40 because recommended oil is 10w30 or 20w40. which 20w40 is thicker than 15w40. Sorry to waste everyones time. But im just frustrated with this and need to fix it.
 
Then you shouldn't be working on this car yourself until you are properly equipped to diagnose it. Bring it to a mechanic and pay the diagnostic fee at the very least to figure out what is wrong.
 
Then you shouldn't be working on this car yourself until you are properly equipped to diagnose it. Bring it to a mechanic and pay the diagnostic fee at the very least to figure out what is wrong.

Even i will admit, Very true, But the mechanics around here don't have a F'in clue on these cars. And the closest Mitsu dealer which is an hour away charges $95/hr for diag. Im starting to get my equipment in a row. Just really need to get specialty tools for this other stuff. I worked with a bunch of guys that built and drove dsm's for along time, some since they came out. Then i had the equipment but now im on my own with a few people that know these cars. alright well nevermind then i will just have to find out comp and leak down, and report back. Also need to know if anyone has a Hotside housing for a 14b that has lil to no cracks, the spare one i have is cracked to bad to try and fix
 
You and your friends need to do some reading on oils and what the numbers mean.

Just to add my 1g tsi has worn rings (110 psi) and has no problem running 0w-20.
 
Well Good news, tonight i did some very hardcore inspecting. Picked up a compression tester and turned it into a makeshift leak down tester. here are the results


Cylinder # Dry Reading Wet Reading

1 0 5
2 85 105
3 105 115
4 110 125



Now what i did for the makeshift leak down tester was took the check valve out of the compression line screwed it in and took a the air line and plugged it in with probably about 40 psi. and listened couldn't here any whooshing coming from the intake or oil cap opening so i went back and put my hand on the exhaust tip and voila it felt like a dyson fan was on. So moral of the story is Bad Valve seats i believe. what was weird was i noticed something strange when i pulled my plugs out. The 3 that had compression were grey whitish. the one that didn't was black. so i knew something was up. Explain to me how i am running on 3 cylinders but the car still pulls like it's running on all for. Also with the exhaust valves the way they are in that cylinder this must be causing my smoking problem along with probably bad Seals too. So now it's onto and new head. my main up grade is 3g lifters and ARP headstuds. Im thinking about buying a Stock Rebuild but i don't know what all i will need. Here's my list so far.


Arp headstuds
cometic headgasket
New timing belt component kit from Gates
Oem Tensioner
3g lifters.
Valve cover gasket set
4 layer Manifold gasket (Already have)
Not sure on the Intake gasket
Valve seals
Can anyone think of anything else. Im kind of on a budget but i know the main stuff i need.
 
Time for a new headgasket. Those numbers show that the headgasket is bad. Seats may be leaking but for it to be zero means you blew it out.

Oh yeah, and get a water pump.

If i blew it out would there be oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. And when i applied air to it wouldn't i have had some sort of air coming out from around the gasket. somewhere atleast. we didn't find any where else that air was coming from. Plus when checking all the other cylinders on the leak down test i didn't notice any other air leaks u could call it but from the valves. But regardless i have to change the Headgasket anyways. Also whats the deal with a new waterpump out of curiosity.
 
The water pump is called preventative maintenance. While its apart you mind as well replace it because its said, to change them with the timing belt. (Millage)

Once you get it apart Im sure you will be able to see what went wrong.
 
The water pump is called preventative maintenance. While its apart you mind as well replace it because its said, to change them with the timing belt. (Millage)

Once you get it apart Im sure you will be able to see what went wrong.

Ahhh ok.:thumb: The only thing im not understanding is the car runs so good once it's past 2000 rpm's smooth as hell without a sputter. But Is there anything else that im missing for this repair. would it be better to do a cometic head gasket or a mitsu headgasket?
 
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