The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Questions Thread For My 6 Bolt Swap

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Clutch GSX

15+ Year Contributor
347
1
Nov 28, 2006
Denver, Colorado
Hey guys. This is going to be my questions thread for my 6 bolt swap. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my first build ever and although I know a decent amount, obviously I still have some questions. You can follow updates from my build here: DSM Forums - 6 Bolt '98 Eclipse 2.3L Build

Here are some of my questions:

Which PS bracket (the one that connects the ps pump to the block) do I use, 6 or 7 bolt? The 7 bolt hits the timing tin but the 6 bolt has studs sticking out the top.
Do I need to set the timing for the oil pump if I removed my balance shafts or do I just make sure the crank and cams are timed?
How to install motor mount inserts? Is it something Ill need to bring to a shop or can I do it?
How to install suspension bushings? Take to a shop or can I do it?
Should I put an oil filter before the turbo? If so, what kind? (I have a GT35R BB)
How to install crankcase evac kit?
How to turn down boost for break in? Just turn boost controller all the way down?

Plenty more to come I'm sure. Thanks!
 
Hey guys. This is going to be my questions thread for my 6 bolt swap. Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is my first build ever and although I know a decent amount, obviously I still have some questions. You can follow updates from my build here: DSM Forums - 6 Bolt '98 Eclipse 2.3L Build

Here are some of my questions:

Which PS bracket (the one that connects the ps pump to the block) do I use, 6 or 7 bolt? The 7 bolt hits the timing tin but the 6 bolt has studs sticking out the top.
Do I need to set the timing for the oil pump if I removed my balance shafts or do I just make sure the crank and cams are timed? I don't believe you need to time the oil pump if the shafts are removed
How to install motor mount inserts? Is it something Ill need to bring to a shop or can I do it?http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...ing-prothane-engine-mounts-fairly-easily.htmlB]
How to install suspension bushings? Take to a shop or can I do it?You can do it, just takes time
Should I put an oil filter before the turbo? If so, what kind? (I have a GT35R BB)You don't NEED to put a filter before the turbo, but I do believe you'll need a restrictor aka filter.
How to install crankcase evac kit?
How to turn down boost for break in? Just turn boost controller all the way down?You can only go as low as the stock wastegate will let you. However, you can unhook the wastegate actuator arm from the flapper so you'll make low to no boost. For breaking in an engine, you do want to run some boost/load on the rings to help seal them

Plenty more to come I'm sure. Thanks!


Search is your friend
 
Last edited:
How to install motor mount inserts? Is it something Ill need to bring to a shop or can I do it?
Should I put an oil filter before the turbo? If so, what kind? (I have a GT35R BB)

I did the motor mount inserts in my garage with a hack saw, drill, flathead screwdriver, and a hammer. Drill out the stock rubber, hacksaw the metal inner ring, and use the screwdriver and hammer to pry/pound out. This is obviously for the tranny top and drivers side mounts. The front and back are inserts on top of the stock rubber.

I am also running a GT35R BB without a filter. I run my oil feed from the head for lower oil pressure. I read up on whether to use a restrictor or not and chose not to. Hope this helps!:thumb:
 
Sorry guys, forgot about the searching, ive been really busy and just threw the questions up here. Thanks for the responses though. I'll search next time for sure.

For future reference, from what I can tell you are supposed to use the 7 bolt PS bracket support and bracket but you need to use a 7 bolt left timing tin or else you can grind down the 6 bolt timing tin a little which is what I did. correct me if I'm wrong.
 
I belive you can use the 7bolt PS, the timing cover is different between the 6 and 7 bolt. The 7 bolt is 3 pieces total (lower, middle, upper) where as the 6 bolt is a one piece (lower and middle) and then the cam gear cover. I opted to buy a new timing cover for my swap as there is some modifications to do to the 7 bolt cover (hacking it up). Check with STM or dsmgraveyard for the cover if you'd like.
 
Is there a write up for installing adjustable cam gears? I think I remember reading one once but I can't find it for the life of me. I thought at one point I read that some adjustable cam gears wouldn't line up perfectly straight or something. I'm getting ready to do the install and do the timing belt for the first time and I really dont want to destroy my $20,000 build by Fing up the timing. Do I just use the VFAQ even though I have fidanza adjustable cam gears?
 
Wow that seems like a major pita. Does anyone actually do that and can I get away with not doing it?
 
Here is a picture of the stock crank pully and an unorthadox racing pulley I bought off someone on tuners. It doesn't seem to match as you can see. Is this how its supposed to be? I would imagine since the diameter is so much smaller it would need a smaller belt. I'm thinking someone sold me the wrong part but I thought I'd ask to make sure.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I'm pretty sure its fine but I wanted to make sure it was ok to mount the 2G sensor labeled #1 in this spot on the 1G thermostat housing. Thats where the identical sensor was installed originally on the 1G so I just repalced it with the 2G. The only reason I ask is because I have seen a couple builds and they put it right next to the #2 sensor in the picture. P.S. Both the sensors in red are 2G sensors, green are 1G which will be blocked off.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Crank pulley is fine, thats how mine is, just had to get a smaller belt.

Dont use the sensor there, thats pre thermostat and wont read correctly for the ECU, no need for the stock 1g coolant temp sensor anymore so put the 2g one in its place (the sensor on the lower housing with the two perpendicular prongs) and block off the fitting in the water neck. The "identical" sensor youre referring too before was for the AC on a 1g...has nothing to do with anything important so you can just block it off with an oil galley plug. Sensor 2 is for the gauge only.

So, recap, put sensor "1" in place of the 2 prong sensor beside sensor "2" and block off where sensor "1" is in the pic and you will be golden :)
 
Awesome, thank you. So how am I supposed to know what size belt to get? And that means I wont be able to use OEM belts right? Any one want to buy an unorthadox racing crank pulley? LOL seriously though. I also forgot to mention that the dowel pin hole is a few mm's off on the pulley too so id have to open it up a little to make it work. What a piece that thing is. I'm hoping it IS for another car or its pretty poor quality.
 
Is there a part number on it you could use to verify?

You can possibly use an OEM belt, depending on what size belt it takes. Easiest way to figure out what size belt is to use one you might already have and see if it's smaller/larger. Or you can wrap a piece of string around the pulleys you need and measure it. Then you can take it to your local auto parts store and buy some belts smaller and larger than that size. And lastly, search in CAPS to see if any vehicle has a belt that size.
 
Awesome, thank you. So how am I supposed to know what size belt to get? And that means I wont be able to use OEM belts right? Any one want to buy an unorthadox racing crank pulley? LOL seriously though. I also forgot to mention that the dowel pin hole is a few mm's off on the pulley too so id have to open it up a little to make it work. What a piece that thing is. I'm hoping it IS for another car or its pretty poor quality.

I just winged it. Got one that was an inch shorter than the stock one and it worked fine.

And same here with the dowel pin. I just removed it from the crank gear.
 
Soooo the sensor #1 in above pic is not coming out. Thread sealant works pretty damn good. Does it make a dramatic difference if its in that spot compared to where its supposed to be? I'm assuming it does but I'm going to have to buy a new sensor for $40 and I don't want to.

P.S. What brand belt would you recommend? Do you know the size off hand?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top