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questions before first start up

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South Carolina
I just got the engine & transmission installed last week, been slowly putting things together everyday after work, I'd say everything that needs to be there is there, was wondering what all I should do before trying to start up? I got all fluids in, no leaks for now and I've also done a boost leak test, and tried turning the motor over with the starter and everything seems to be working fine.

was wondering how good of an idea it would be to do a compression test before the first start up? Would it be better to do one before or after warming the engine up?

Once I do start up, I should let it run for a good 5-10 minutes saying there's no unexpected leaks right?
 
Is this just a motor swap or a rebuilt engine?

A rebuilt longblock and transmission, so I should just prime the engine after putting oil in, and just follow the break in procedures? (Still reading about it)

how long should I let the engine idle for it's first time?
 
I hate answering these questions because so many have their own opinions. I'll get thrashed I know it. :shhh:

I don't let them idle at all if possible. I hook up my shop oil pressure gauge in the engine bay so I can see it and have my wife do the cranking while I pay close attention to as much as possible. I like to run an engine between 1500-2000 rpm's for a good 15 minutes. Especially if new cams are involved.

Just be certain your timing marks are dead on. Even if you checked them twice, do it again paying attention to the marks individually and as a whole.

Then I drive it the way it's going to be.

I've built and ran more motors than I can even remember, and yes I've blown a few, but I can't think of one that went bad due to the way I "run 'em in".

Now for the thrashing.:toobad:
 
Use regular 10W30 oil.
Before you fire up the engine, remove the MPI fuse and crank the engine several times to build oil pressure.
Put the MPI fuse back, start the engine and immediately take it to 1.5-2K to maintain the oil pressure so the lifters fill with oil and the cams bed properly.
No matter what you do, don't let the engine idle.
When the engine warms up and the coolant temperature is normal, bring the RPM to 3K and hold it there for 20-30 minutes.
Let the RPM drop, adjust the idle and timing.
When done, shut the engine off, check for any oil/coolant leaks, change the oil and the oil filter and let the engine cool down.
If everything checks out OK, take the car for a spin and several 30-65-30 mph pulls at stock boost level.
At this point, the engine is fully broken in, but you might want to take it easy for a few more days and keep an eye on oil/coolant leaks, loose bolts and hoses, etc.
Change the oil/oil filter at 500 miles again.

There's absolutely no need to drive 500 miles under 3K or 1500 miles without boosting. As a matter of fact, you can tune the car and race the engine the same day you install it.

The best way to break in an engine. If it's just a swap and not a brand new engine, then disregard the break in procedure.
 
The best way to break in an engine. If it's just a swap and not a brand new engine, then disregard the break in procedure.

Where was this quoted from?

Is there any explanation as to why it's so bad for the engine to idle? Is this just for new engines?
 
From what I have read the first ten minutes of an engines life is where the initial cylinder hatching files or seats the rings. If allowed to idle the hatching will wear without the piston under load. Under load causes the piston to force against the cylinder wall and better seat the rings. Same concept while breaking in the motor to always vary rpm. I've personally done this and has worked great. All this is opinion so I'm sure someone will disagree.
 
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