Question for bogusSVO

[Cdc1221]

What would you say about me gun drilling my cams? I can run it on a lathe and rest at work, and we have some 16" long 7/16" and 1/2" bits i can drill them with. I was just thinking about the evo hollow cams and wondering about how this would work with our stockers. As this would be a free trial for me, im just wondering if it would weaken the stock cams too much, or if it would even have a benefit in performance.

 

[H@xtGSX]

....they always getcha with the shipping and handling.

 

[BogusSVO]

I like the new 4 angle cutter I picked up.
This is on a STD valve head w/ bronze guides.
Too bad it will not fit in the exhaust seats.

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What you all think?

Cuts super smooth.

So would it make it a 6 angle Valve job????

 

[Cdc1221]

If youre adding in the throat and the cc surface? Lol. Nice cut though. Now your just making me jealous

 

[H@xtGSX]

That's purty... I like it. That is a nice, fat face to lap the valve to. You'll just have to get another for the other side.

 

[BogusSVO]

Ahhhhh...the face is anything but fat,

what you really see are the 2 angles in the throat, then the seat, then the top angle.

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Red= Top angle
Blue= Seat
Pink=throat
Orange = 2nd throat

Below orange, is the factoy 90*

 

[Cdc1221]

Now im tempted to pick up a nt head just to play around with

 

[H@xtGSX]

Seat... It's wider than mine. I am bad about terminology and sometimes just put whatever makes sense in my head down, and then look like a dummy later when someone corrects my fantastic redneck vernacular.
The throat angles look nice. Again, better than the head on my car looks.

 

[BogusSVO]

Seat... It's wider than mine. I am bad about terminology and sometimes just put whatever makes sense in my head down, and then look like a dummy later when someone corrects my fantastic redneck vernacular.
The throat angles look nice. Again, better than the head on my car looks.

Well I like a narrow seat, not all shops have the ablity to put a narrow seat on a head.

Then add on top I grind the valves on an interferance angle, so now you have a very small contact area of the valve face and the valve seat.

Get the contact area too small and you do not transfre heat from the valve to the seat, to the casting and into the coolant. So what happens then is a burt valve. Or the valve face cupps.

Normally the exhaust valve will burn, and intakes cup.

This cutter should work really nice with a +1mm OS valve.

As far as the redneck vernacular, I am a red neck myself.

 

[Cdc1221]

Ha same here. I thought the point of multiple angles is more v2s contact? Not too keen on these things. I wish id paid more attention in shop class in high school. Our teacher also owns the local strip and had three grand nationals we were always working on

 

[BogusSVO]

No, only 1 angle will ever touch the valve.

The rest are for air transition.

The most angles I every laid on a head was 9 along with 2 radius cuts. The "Valve job" ran from the head surface, down to the guide.
"Cheater Heads" for a SBC in bomber class.
The rules said, no port work, Multi angle valve jobs allowed.

They changed the rules the next season, (After these heads had been thu tech a few times)

The new rule says no more than 3 angles on the seat.

 

[Cdc1221]

Hahaha that sounds like nascars rules. Someone(dodge) found something to increase power output, dominated, and got kicked out for it. Why i like oldschool racing. Run what ya brung, and whoevers fastest at the end of the day wins

 

[BogusSVO]

Yep That was the "Hemi" Thats why all engines are of the wedge design in NASCAR.

 

[Cdc1221]

Exactly why i love motoGP and other bike racing. The bike manufacturers take a good idea and improve upon it instead of shooting it down or banning it because their competitor dominates the track for a year or two

 

[BogusSVO]

When I was first on Tuners years ago. I saw lots of threads pop up about a fresh rebuilt engine Spinning rod bearings In 50 miles or less.

This is not something I do in house, any shop with a tig welder should be able to erode them out.

This is what you see packed behind the oil galley plug.

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Now you clean it with brake clean, and you flush can after can thu it to get it clean.

Or you send it to a machine shop for a polish.
The shop will put it in a hot tank for a soak, or in a spray cabinet for a wash.

What happens is the chemical in the brake clean, or the cleaners that the machine shop uses, Just breaks down the bond of the crud, and will contine to after the crank is called "clean"

This is what was pushed out of 1 galley.

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So now the broken down crud still in there is now loosened up.

The crank gets installed on new bearings.

You do like a good engine builder and prime the oiling system.
That new oil picks up that crud. So on start up, it gets thrown right into the rod bearings.

Most oil clearance on a rod is appox .002.
That crud will not just flush out into the oil pan. It is trapped, chewing up the new bearing.

 

[Cdc1221]

Definite good advice. I read a prior thread of yours on this

 

[bastarddsm]

How exactly do you get the balls out? I havn't tried, but I usually use a piece of welding wire and about 4 can's of carb cleaner to get the gunk out.

 

[Cdc1221]

Ive heard of people using a tig to melt them out

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

What would you say about me gun drilling my cams? I can run it on a lathe and rest at work, and we have some 16" long 7/16" and 1/2" bits i can drill them with. I was just thinking about the evo hollow cams and wondering about how this would work with our stockers. As this would be a free trial for me, im just wondering if it would weaken the stock cams too much, or if it would even have a benefit in performance.

Dang don't be stealing my idea. I was going to do this to my cams when i got the chance. If your still running stock cams just swapem for the evo cams. Their an upgrade and already made hollow buy Mitsubishi. Aftermarket ones aren't hollow though just stock evo 8s.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Ive heard of people using a tig to melt them out

Yes you can use a tig. Idea is to get them hot and then they will distort enough to pull them out.

 

[Cdc1221]

Haha. Well now ive decided im going to cut the od down. Doing this cuts the weight down where it really matters: on the outside. And youre right about the evo cams, but finding a used set is a pain, you have degree them in requiring ad. cam gears and have to drill the hole for the cas. And since i work at a machine shop, all it costs me is my time. And you can use a tig or an acetylene torch. The balls are steel, but the crank is not, meaning you can melt it out without cutting the crank accidently

 

[Fehrion_sit]

what is your take on installing oil gallery plugs. my engine machining teacher had me use brown permitex on them when i rebuilt my 1g head. in terms of my SBF, im seeing mixed reviews using the permitex on the plugs in the front of the block by the cam gear. thoughts?

 

[Cdc1221]

I hate permatex or any other silicone based gasket sealers. I personally prefer coppercoat, or a non hardening sealant. Using it over silicone avoids the little broken off pieces of dry silicone getting into your oil system. Just my $.02

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Haha. Well now ive decided im going to cut the od down. Doing this cuts the weight down where it really matters: on the outside. And youre right about the evo cams, but finding a used set is a pain, you have degree them in requiring ad. cam gears and have to drill the hole for the cas. And since i work at a machine shop, all it costs me is my time. And you can use a tig or an acetylene torch. The balls are steel, but the crank is not, meaning you can melt it out without cutting the crank accidently

Really? Nobody told me all that. Oops

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You don't need adj. Gears and you can use a 95 cam sensor. I can get you a set i used to have if you want. Mine aren't stock evo8 cams. Its really simple to do actually. And you can trust me because

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Btw I'm from these are my dd cams.
http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/skunk-2-264272-camshaft-set-evo-78.html

 

[Cdc1221]

Oh really? May have to take a trip to s.c. ron

 

[H@xtGSX]

Well I like a narrow seat, not all shops have the ablity to put a narrow seat on a head.

Then add on top I grind the valves on an interferance angle, so now you have a very small contact area of the valve face and the valve seat.

Get the contact area too small and you do not transfre heat from the valve to the seat, to the casting and into the coolant. So what happens then is a burt valve. Or the valve face cupps.

Normally the exhaust valve will burn, and intakes cup.

This cutter should work really nice with a +1mm OS valve.

As far as the redneck vernacular, I am a red neck myself.

Yea, we red necks have a bad tendency of making every vehicle we get our hands on the biggest, baddest, loudest, and fastest piece of crap on the road.

Why would you want a small seat contact??? I lap valves out into the seat as far as I can do so comfortably to get that surface contact. It has never once failed me in producing some of the highest pressures I have seen with the least damage to the valves possible under high power applications. I always, always try to widen out the valve to seat with the valve itself and some good ultra fine lapping compound to make the most robust seal possible.

Why would you do otherwise?