2G Question About Timing/Degreeing Cams

[VT_4G63]

Hello,

Quick question:

I am putting my engine (7-Bolt 4G63T) back together after having it completely apart and doing an extensive refresh.

I am upgrading my cams and intend to degree them using adjustable cam sprockets.

Obviously while reassembling the engine I am replacing all timing components.

My question is what order of operations do I proceed with?

Should I time the engine first like normal with all 16 hydraulic lash adjusters in place?

Then remove the timing belt, replace 2 HLA's from Cylinder 1 with 2 Solid Lash Adjusters in order to degree the cams through the adjustment of my adjustable cam sprockets, get the right degree set, then replace the Solid Lash Adjusters back with the HLA's, re-time the engine and be done?

Or do I just initially time the engine with the 2 solid lash adjusters in place and degree the cams at the same time, then replace the 2 solid lash adjusters with the 2 HLA's and time the engine based on the "degree'd" cam sprocket adjustment.

Basically, I'm not sure how to "break in" my timing components; based on the HLA's or based on the Solid Lifters and the right degree of cam....

 

[Anfurnyy]

Or do I just initially time the engine with the 2 solid lash adjusters in place and degree the cams at the same time, then replace the 2 solid lash adjusters with the 2 HLA's and time the engine based on the "degree'd" cam sprocket adjustment.

This would be the correct way.

Put head together with solid lifters and light valve springs set timing exactly like you normally would, degree the cams. Make any adjustments you need to lock em down. Spin it all over and make sure everything is still good.

Then replace the light valve springs with correct springs (you can do this while on the car with compressed air and a 4g63 specific valve spring tool so you don't have to waste a head gasket), replace solid lifters with hydraulic lifters, retime everything like normal and good to go assuming everything lines up still.

 

[DSMPT]

Should I time the engine first like normal with all 16 hydraulic lash adjusters in place?

Then remove the timing belt, replace 2 HLA's from Cylinder 1 with 2 Solid Lash Adjusters in order to degree the cams through the adjustment of my adjustable cam sprockets, get the right degree set, then replace the Solid Lash Adjusters back with the HLA's, re-time the engine and be done?

Or do I just initially time the engine with the 2 solid lash adjusters in place and degree the cams at the same time, then replace the 2 solid lash adjusters with the 2 HLA's and time the engine based on the "degree'd" cam sprocket adjustment.

Doesn't matter which ways, either you set the timing first with all 16 HLAs and replace one HLA on each side IN and EX with a solid lifter, or you put the solid lifters first and set the timing.

You can replace the lifters "without" removing the cams and the timing belt by using a lifter removal tool like the pic below or one-off metal plate or something similar that allow you to compress valve spring in car. You should have one if you don't have. It's not something you always use but it's cheap and if you have one, it would make the situation much easier and save your time a lot when you need to replace the lifters or rocker arms.

When you set zero lash with the solid lifter, don't try to put actual zero clearance. This sometimes causes too tight later. Like if you set "zero" tightly from the beginning, after locking the lock nut or when lube in journal get thin after rotating cams many times, the clearance may be above zero, it would be too tight. Use thickness gauge and you should set it about .002"~.004" "after" locking the lock nut.

The light springs (check spring) is mainly for checking the piston to valve clearance, so it's not a must if you are not planning to check the piston to valve clearance. You can degree cams with the spring you have in the head. But it would be good idea to check the piston to valve clearance in the same time since you already have a degree wheel on crankshaft, and it's always good if you know what exactly happening in your engine.

Do not forget to replace the solid lifters with HLAs when you finish degreeing cams.

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