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Question about pressure plate, hellllllppppp!!!!

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Rev1Prez

10+ Year Contributor
34
0
Mar 31, 2009
Spartanburg, South Carolina
Hi all, I have a question, first off, I did a engine and trans swap from a 90 gst to a 94 nt car, so when I did this I finally got engine running right from the change of sensors and wires on the ecu and etc...Anyways, I recently did some research on trans swap and I learned that I have to change brackets. If I have the turbo trans already I don't have to change the brackets on the trans but I do have to change the brackets inside the car do I? Now to my main question, I took my trans out because their was so much play on the Clutch fork and comes to find out when I took the trans down my pressure plate "fingers" or "fins" are flat and that's why I'm assuming there is so much play because the tob has nothing to push against, is it normal for the pressure plate to have flat fingers and not bulging out like normal? Please help. THANKS A MILL.
 
All you need to swap out when putting a 90 into a 91-94 car is the bracket that holds the cables to the trans (2 12mm bolts) as well as the shifter arm that is held on by 2 12mm bolts. That's IT! It's a built in short shifting setup.

Do this. Turn car off, push clutch in, start car. Does the car jump forward when you bump the starter?
I had already changed the bracket holding the cables but I haven't changed the shifter arm, ill do that next. And yes my car does bump forward when I try starting it, does that have something to do with it?
 
Means your clutch isn't disengaging fully. Either you have a leaky master/slave cylinder, your clutch pedal assembly is VERY worn out, your clutch pedal isn't adjusted properly, or your flywheel isn't stepped to the proper height to accomodate the clutch disc. ONly things it could be. OR.....your trans/motor bolts have backed out and are loose
 
Means your clutch isn't disengaging fully. Either you have a leaky master/slave cylinder, your clutch pedal assembly is VERY worn out, your clutch pedal isn't adjusted properly, or your flywheel isn't stepped to the proper height to accomodate the clutch disc. ONly things it could be. OR.....your trans/motor bolts have backed out and are loose

Man I knew it, I figured clutch wasn't disengaging properly, but now I have to check the other things ughhhhhh!!!!! You had me excited there NOSLO2PTO LOL but I guess I'm gonna buy a new master, the slave is new, I adjusted the clutch pedal clock wise till it was flush behind the bracket. While adjusting it i did notice something odd though, as I pushed and pulled the clutch pedal it had about 1"-1 1/2" of play before it moved the clutch rod, does that mean my pedal assembly is worn out?
 
You swapped into an NT car. Go compare the slave and master part numbers. You already know the NT has a flat flywheel and the turbo is stepped. Did you also know there are different slaves with different diameter pistons?

So you're saying that the masters and slaves are different? My engine and trans are turbo btw, so I'm not worried about the flywheel part but I appreciate the help but as far as slaves and masters what do you suggest?

There is your problem right there. Gotta weld up the clutch pedal assembly to fix your problem.

:banghead: FACKK!!!!!!! So that's my problem after all huh, sonamabitch, in other threads I read that the pedal assembly is a PITA to take off.
 
I second the opinion about the clutch pedal assembly. This is a weak spot for our cars. If you look at the header bar at the top of the page you'll see an ad from ShepTrans. $120.00 plus your core and they'll send you a repaired one. Not a bad deal.
 
If you do not verify the step of the flywheel you are shooting yourself in the foot over and over and over and over.

TRE TECH TIPS
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"If the flywheel step height is machined deeper than .612" the end result will be a clutch pedal that feels mushy & vague"

Also, the 90 transmissions have YEAR SPECIFIC shifter bracket, shifter assy's and shift cables. you need all matching 90 equipment to make it shift properly. If you are stubborn there are ways of making it work, but if you are having issues figuring it out, i recommend using the correct parts.
 
If you do not verify the step of the flywheel you are shooting yourself in the foot over and over and over and over.

TRE TECH TIPS
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"The step height is critical to proper clutch operation"
"If the flywheel step height is machined deeper than .612" the end result will be a clutch pedal that feels mushy & vague"

Also, the 90 transmissions have YEAR SPECIFIC shifter bracket, shifter assy's and shift cables. you need all matching 90 equipment to make it shift properly. If you are stubborn there are ways of making it work, but if you are having issues figuring it out, i recommend using the correct parts.

yep yep yep to this above.

I will add, no matter what, get the reman'd pedal assembly from Shep or get the bits and do it yourself. The crucial bit is getting the brass bushings - the stock setup has plastic bushings and when you weld the end you melt them and the whole thing is shite.

You can have everything else in your clutch system topnotch, and the pedal assembly alone will make the whole works fail.

However the fact that you are engaged even with the clutch in neutral points to something making contact that is not supposed to. You don't wanna hear this but I would pull the tranny, measure the flywheel step height to be sure it is correct, replace the ball and fork, replace/repair the pedal assembly, verify the clutch fork position as in Jacks videos once it is back together and then see where you are at.
 
Here's a pic of the "doubled up adjustment nuts". I had to to this on my colt to reach the dsm trans as the stock cables are too short.

100_0091.jpg
 
89-90 shifter cables, 89-90 in-cab shifter assy, 89-90 transmissions are compatible.
91-94 shifter cables, 91-94 in-cab shifter assy, 91-94 transmissions are compatible.

if you take the time to compare and contrast the differences, you could probably figure out a way to shorten or lengthen brackes or cables to make them work.

However it sounds like you are having clutch issues. Disconnect everything, manually shift the transmission into 1st and LEAVE IT THERE.

Get the clutch grip with the pedal exactly half way off the floor.
If you skip this step you are fail.
It can be difficult if you aren't 100% sure how things work, but you need to stop putting the cart before the horse.

Work on clutch engagement. get back to us.

Also, save your pennies and buy a transmission from the correct year.

PS: the 1.8L transmission works great with the 4g63 turbo and non turbo, the internals are a little different but I have had great results with this

I would rather have a 1.8l transmission from 91-94 then a 2.0 transmission from 90.

/Rant
 
89-90 shifter cables, 89-90 in-cab shifter assy, 89-90 transmissions are compatible.
91-94 shifter cables, 91-94 in-cab shifter assy, 91-94 transmissions are compatible.

if you take the time to compare and contrast the differences, you could probably figure out a way to shorten or lengthen brackes or cables to make them work.

However it sounds like you are having clutch issues. Disconnect everything, manually shift the transmission into 1st and LEAVE IT THERE.

Get the clutch grip with the pedal exactly half way off the floor.
If you skip this step you are fail.
It can be difficult if you aren't 100% sure how things work, but you need to stop putting the cart before the horse.

Work on clutch engagement. get back to us.

Also, save your pennies and buy a transmission from the correct year.

PS: the 1.8L transmission works great with the 4g63 turbo and non turbo, the internals are a little different but I have had great results with this

I would rather have a 1.8l transmission from 91-94 then a 2.0 transmission from 90.

/Rant

I understand, i have both complete cars engines and parts necessary, my 94 nt dsm blew a engine and that was the purpose for my 90 turbo swap into my 94, the 90 dsm was a project car when i had a shop couple years ago but failed 9long story) anyways the 90 project had alot of body work needed due to customization, I'm talking this car has full drift kit, f3 fenders and r33 skyline taillights which thankfully i didnt mold in like i did the fenders and the kit. but now that car is going to scrap since my 94 nt was in much better shape body wise and needed an engine. Anyways i have the nt trans but according to mavisky's thread its really not a good idea.

BTW- i know what my problem is, i have a bad pedal assembly and thats why my clutch will not work right.
 
However the fact that you are engaged even with the clutch in neutral points to something making contact that is not supposed to

Our transmissions are constant mesh. They are supposed to do this. Any dsm on jackstands in NEUTRAL will have the tires move if iti's running. It's easy to stop them. The fluid alone will move things along. As the tranny is in neutral and the gears do ride on needle bearings they can and do stop if you stop them. You don't notice this on the ground.

I just had to clear that up. It does sound like you have a clutch/pedal problem.

For the records in this system a bare minimum of differences are clutch, flywheel, transmission, cables, shifter, pedal assembly, slave, master and sometimes axles. This is why it is recommended that you do not swap an NT to turbo. It's alot of stuff. Seeing as you already did it you should investigate the differences and find out which ones might make a big difference and fix them. Some could just be clearance issues, others obviously not.
 
BTW- i know what my problem is, i have a bad pedal assembly and thats why my clutch will not work right.

Ok, just remember to check the step height after all else fails. Also don't adjust the rod all the way out, it needs to be centered. Don't drive your car with the clutch pedal on the floor, it ruins the synchros.
 
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