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Question about clutch install

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madman

20+ Year Contributor
472
3
Oct 9, 2003
Kansas City, Missouri
I'm getting ready to do the clutch install myself, with help, and had a question.

I've read the VFAQ, Tech article and the Chilton guide.

The Chilton guide says to SEPARATE THE TIE ROD FROM STEERING KNUCKLE and to DETACH THE STABILIZER LINK CONNECTION.

Neither the VFAQ or Tech article says anything about them. Is it necessary to do this?

Will I need a TIE ROD SEPARATOR to disconnect the lateral/lower control arms or the parts above if necessary?


Any other tricks or suggestions that might not have been mentioned in the 3 places above would be appreciated.
 
I guess I should have added:

I'm getting an ACT2600 w/ ACT flywheel. ACT TOB (suppose to be plastic sleeve like oem).

New clutch fork and ball.

Long ss hose to replace the accumulator.

I will also be getting oil seals (just incase), cotter pins and new circlips for the axel ends (suggested by Chilton).
 
madman said:
I'm getting ready to do the clutch install myself, with help, and had a question.

I've read the VFAQ, Tech article and the Chilton guide.

The Chilton guide says to SEPARATE THE TIE ROD FROM STEERING KNUCKLE and to DETACH THE STABILIZER LINK CONNECTION.

Neither the VFAQ or Tech article says anything about them. Is it necessary to do this?

Will I need a TIE ROD SEPARATOR to disconnect the lateral/lower control arms or the parts above if necessary?


Any other tricks or suggestions that might not have been mentioned in the 3 places above would be appreciated.


this step is not needed bud. I wish i had a pic to show you all that you need to do. Once you get started you will see. Just pull down on the spindle to get the axle to slide out above.
 
madman said:
Would it be recommended to replace my stock axles w/ 115k miles on them with remand ones while I'm in there?

If the boots are not torn and not letting any of that nasty grease out then you are fine. Just make sure you inspect them.
 
Thanks. ^^

I have a impact wrench, would that be best to brake loose all the bolts or would it be more
likely to snap them?

Sorry about the stupid question, first time ever using an impact wrench too.

I think this is going to be a very big learning experience.
 
I'd go with a breaker bar.....don't want to break or round-off and bolt heads in those hard to reach spots.
 
madman said:
Thanks. ^^

I have a impact wrench, would that be best to brake loose all the bolts or would it be more
likely to snap them?

Sorry about the stupid question, first time ever using an impact wrench too.

I think this is going to be a very big learning experience.

If it's adjustable then go with the lowest setting. Also using impact sockets help against rounding off those bolts. Good luck:thumb:
 
boosting_laser said:
If it's adjustable then go with the lowest setting. Also using impact sockets help against rounding off those bolts. Good luck:thumb:


It's a Husky brand, not even out of the box yet so I'm not sure if it's adjustable.

Would setting the psi affect the amount of torque?

I noticed on my cutoff tool, the psi would affect how fast it spun, does it work similarly to the impact wrench?

I figured the impact wrench would be best on the clutch/flywheel/assembly and I guess I use a breaker bar on the rest of tranny bolts.
 
I also own a Husky, so I'm 99.9% sure it's adjustable. And yes PSI also affects it's strength. When I was swapping out the flywheel it was almost impossible with a breaker bar. Some have better luck, though. Take advantage of those air tools!
 
Cool thanks.

I have a feeling I will find many uses for all my new air tools.

Let the good times roll. :thumb: ...........just hope my car rolls when I'm done.
 
Dude you'll be fine. It was one of the first things I had to do on my car with no prior experience, and it really wasn't that bad.
 
I got the starter cable out with the gear assembly, does the gears need to be oiled before installing it back in?

If so any sugestions on oil? It looked pretty thin.
 
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