The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

PVC Intake / Intercooler Piping [merged]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ericismyname

20+ Year Contributor
682
0
Oct 14, 2002
West Des Moines, Iowa
hey i read that a person made a custom pvc intake pipe. wouldnt that melt?? or somthing like that?
 
I am running PVC with no boost leaks...seems to work pretty good for me. It was a cheap alternate tell I can weld up my own.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
if i were you i would wait till you can get some mild steel, i do not see any point in using pvc pipes, and no offense but i personally think it looks ghetto
 
I would save the pvc for effluent and spud guns. For one thing, 2 inch is a little small and 2.5 is hard to find. More importantly, PVC can take a huge amount of pressure at room temperature but its pressure holding ability falls off rapidly at higher temperatures. Most ratings only extend to 140°F which can easily be exceeded under the hood. If you extrapolate the data in the chart, it appears that around 180°, the pressure rating hits zero. In reality it would likely still hold boost but why put all that effort into something that could blow up on you at any time?
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
i know there is a post right below this one discussing self made intakes but i didnt want to hijack his thread with a question semi related yet not an actual response to the orignal poster.on here ive read several threads about using pvc to make intakes and the issue of the pipe burning and releasing aluminum eating gas is raised.yet there seems no definite answer that i can see on if a simple intake pipe running from intake manifold to filter gets hot enough to release said gas.does anyone have any concrete info as to what temp the stuff begins to release the gas and what temp an intake of a car that has been driven a few miles is?(i know i could avoid the issue by using abs,but it appears home depot in pembroke pines doesnt have it)
 
i've spent more years then I want to admit to working with pvc pipe, and I to this day would never recommend putting it under the hood of a car. sch40 pvc (the more expensive stuff) is rated at around 200 degrees internal holding temperature depending on the quality of the stuff. i've seen plenty of cases where its held to plenty of hot water applications at 180+ for years and years.

the problem becomes when that pipe needs to flex at all, when pvc is exposed to higher temp for a long time it becomes brittle (we're talking 6+months and more) and if its going to flex there is a good chance its going to crack, getting tossed around in a car isn't hte best place for pvc running right at its operating limit. also to the point pvc isn't going to break down to its constituants until it gets close to burning, and melting will happen before that. if you babysit your intake and check for any kind of melting/discoloring you could probably get away with it

the best thing you can put in your car if you're going to use pipe is conduit, sch80 and the good stuff, you'll need to go to an electrical shop to get it since home depot wont sell it that big (atleast none of them i've gone to) it will hold the temp better and is designed around exterior temperature rather then interior temp, abs is also a good second.

as far as just finding pvc in that size at home depot you're probably looking at the really thin walled exterior drain stuff which isn't straight pvc (pvc exterior with a poly interior lining), home depot (again, the ones i've been to) don't stock pvc over 2 1/2 inches and nothing over 2" in sch40 but they've always stocked abs in 3 and 4 inch in good quantities
 
looks like i should just bite the bullet and go to a muffler shop and have them bend me up one.the factor of longevity of the pvc never entered my gourd for a second,i assumed it just lasts forever.ill use the stuff i already bought and make a mock up for the shop to use.logically i should have asked this before spending 15 bucks in pipes and elbows but where would the fun in that be?the 3" pipe i do have is indeed pretty thin walled,yet the elbows look sturdy enough to use as jackstands. ill check the conduit before heading to the muffler shop and compare the prices.i also might swing by lowes and see if they have abs.thanks a bundle for all the information.
 
Has anyone ever used a pcv pipe for intercooler pipings?

Would it be okay if I make an fmic piping with pcv pipe? I have a whole bunch laying around the back yard.

I was thinking of going long route, so that i dont run into the down pipe. The pcv pipe is 2.5 in. I can use a heat gun to bent the pipe into an angle.

What you guys think?
 
Pipe is pipe. The walls are fairly smooth and if you can get the bends right I could see it function just as well as any other FMIC setup. I would be worried about the manifold or turbine being too close, but just the heat from the compressed air shouldn't cause much trouble. It will insulate the air inside it better than aluminum or steel, which could work for or against you, I would think for the better. Depending on the couplings, no one would know any better if you threw some paint on it.

100*F inlet(under hood) at STP, and putting out 20psi with 70% compressor efficiency will equal ~320*F
PVC's melting point is 413.6*F
 
Pipe is pipe as previously stated. The melting point of PVC is like 400 degrees and if your putting that hot of air into your engine you have bigger problems. If you are worried about it being too close to the manifold or turbine I supposed you could wrap it. Plus if you wrapped it no one would even know it was PVC and you saved yourself a a fair amount of money. If your going to use a heat gun be careful not to crunch the piping in the bends.. But then again I'm sure you know all this anyways ;) Good luck and i say go for it.
 
At temps over 200 degrees, PCV emits noxious fumes that may affect the effective octane in the combustion chamber. This is HIGHLY likely at average boost levels before an intercooler. Don't run PVC before your intercooler.
 
Man, don't sweat it. you're a true DSMer, like me:thumb: . "pipe is pipe." That's a dsm phrase. . .'X is X.' DSMers are the best. Balls to the wall. True experimenters. They try it and celebrate when the don't blow the 4G engine!

I just know from experience that this happens.:D That means my dirty, cheap a$$ has tried it. I STILL have pvc piping in my system just after the intercooler. No need to spend money that could be spent on something like an ebay adjustable cam gear. . .
 
Man, don't sweat it. you're a true DSMer, like me:thumb: . "pipe is pipe." That's a dsm phrase. . .'X is X.' DSMers are the best. Balls to the wall. True experimenters. They try it and celebrate when the don't blow the 4G engine!

I just know from experience that this happens.:D That means my dirty, cheap a$$ has tried it. I STILL have pvc piping in my system just after the intercooler. No need to spend money that could be spent on something like an ebay adjustable cam gear. . .

dsmonster, and all of the other guys who have tried this; how exactly can you keep the pvc pipe from blowing off the couplers? I've blown it off 4 times in the last 3 days, and even replaced with ss t-bolt clamps and they still blow off, only @12psi. What can I do to prevent this?
 
dsmonster, and all of the other guys who have tried this; how exactly can you keep the pvc pipe from blowing off the couplers? I've blown it off 4 times in the last 3 days, and even replaced with ss t-bolt clamps and they still blow off, only @12psi. What can I do to prevent this?

I have not tried it, but it is common with any IC piping to make a lip at the end of the pipe to prevent it from blowing off the couplers.
 
dsmonster, and all of the other guys who have tried this; how exactly can you keep the pvc pipe from blowing off the couplers? I've blown it off 4 times in the last 3 days, and even replaced with ss t-bolt clamps and they still blow off, only @12psi. What can I do to prevent this?

Cheap aerosol hairspray. Spray it around the pipe end. then put ont he couple and clamp it down. But, watch it. It's flamable. It's an old turboford trick.

But better is to mix up some jb weld and let it harden to the consistance of peanutbutter. Then form a bead on the end of the pipe. Let it sit for 15 hours. I've never had any success w/ the quick drying jb weld.
 
Cheap aerosol hairspray. Spray it around the pipe end. then put ont he couple and clamp it down. But, watch it. It's flamable. It's an old turboford trick.

But better is to mix up some jb weld and let it harden to the consistance of peanutbutter. Then form a bead on the end of the pipe. Let it sit for 15 hours. I've never had any success w/ the quick drying jb weld.

Haha, I like the hairspray trick...:D
So just form up a bead on both ends with the JB Weld? Sounds simple enough.
 
Man I know DSM'ers can be cheap bastards (myself included) but PVC intercooler piping WTF!!!

I take some sort of pride in my car..Ill relate it to a child, something you care very deeply for.
I would never let my kid walk around with some funky clown looking shoes on, getting made fun of everywhere he went.
 
This is not an insult to anyone i completely respect those who try and innovate. On the other hand why would you go with proven aluminum piping and silicone couplers. This will reduce your chance of having boost leaks all the time significantly. This i know about pvc, i worked for the natural gas company for a year and my dad 35. You must fuse pvc piping to hold pressure at anything over 20 psi, but properly fused pvc will hold 100 psi. Dsm-onster makes a good point about it releasing fumes at 200 deg F. but what he didn't mention is that these fumes if combusted will turn into a gross plastickey(not a real word i know) carbon, like when you run over a garbage bag sort of deal. If these deposites gum up you valves good luck you might be in for some trouble.
 
This is not an insult to anyone i completely respect those who try and innovate. On the other hand why would you go with proven aluminum piping and silicone couplers. This will reduce your chance of having boost leaks all the time significantly. This i know about pvc, i worked for the natural gas company for a year and my dad 35. You must fuse pvc piping to hold pressure at anything over 20 psi, but properly fused pvc will hold 100 psi. Dsm-onster makes a good point about it releasing fumes at 200 deg F. but what he didn't mention is that these fumes if combusted will turn into a gross plastickey(not a real word i know) carbon, like when you run over a garbage bag sort of deal. If these deposites gum up you valves good luck you might be in for some trouble.

I do realize what you are trying to say, but in my case its just temporary to get me from home to work, untill I can get my FMIC kit on. But I can see the point you are trying to get out to the people who use this everyday, as a permanent fix. Thank you for your knowledge and suppling us with it, as a caution if you would say.
Shawn
 
hey,
i bought a FMIC and i'm going to install it this weekend on my car right!!!im just asking on your opinion on the piping, in thinking of pvc piping only because of the weight and not the price,i know stainless looks nice along with aluminum but im more concerned about the weight for the track.and PVC would last a while and can be air tight just like all other piping, would this be a bad idea or would it look like a 'cheap mans way or piping' because i also don't want to get made fun of either LOL !!!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Griffin intercooler cores
    Griffin intercooler cores. Top to bottom flow. High cfm and heat transfer. 24x8x2.75 and...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top