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PTE dual bb??

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dsm8883

15+ Year Contributor
238
1
Dec 19, 2004
gainsville, Florida
has anyone tried the dual bb setup from pte like a 60trim. if someone has how is spool up and do u think it is worth the $$$ over a single bb setup? Precision T & E T3/T4 Dual Ball Bearing SC6031RS : 580 HP #18356 8 Reasons Why Garrett's Dual Ball Bearing Systems Is For You:1. Exceptionally Crisp Throttle Response2. Spools Up to 15% Quicker than Journal Bearing Turbos3. Quicker 0-60 Elapsed Times4. More Tolerant of Marginal Lubrication5. Less Chance of Seal Leakage6. Improved Damping & Control over Shaft Motion7. No Thrust Bearing, which Eliminates a Weak Link8. Maximum Efficiency, Performance & Reliability at an Affordable PricePart Number: SC6031RSCompressor Trim: 60Compressor Size: 60mm Compressor Cover: T04STurbine Wheel: T31 Turbine Trim: 76 HP Rating: 580
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Weight 20.00 lbs
Retail price: $ 1,200.00

Our price: $ 1,049.00
 
thanks for the input i have been using dsmtalk but i think i am going to start using dsmtuners seems like a lot more true tuners use this website. i am going to go dual bb and will update when i have the turbo and fuel mods done and tuned. thanks again
 
I have a T04E 60 trim and just got the car going and love it. The pull at 19 lbs is unreal on 93 octane. I guess I have the right combination for it to work and I get full boost by 3900 to 4000. It might be my Greddy EBC thats helps. I have the gain like two clicks from full gain. Did only my second launch last night against a VST stang and had him by three cars and missed 4th gear. By the time I got it in and hit it again I lost boost so just let off and he passed me. Also took out the front diff so I'm just glad winter is here to have time to get an LSD.
 
I got my dual ball bearing PTE 50-trim right when they came out. They had a low intro price and I bit. I ended up waiting a month or so to get it from PTE, but when it finally came it was well worth the wait. I've been driving on it for almost a year now, boosting 30psi daily with no problems what-so-ever.

Spoolup really depends on your tune and your mods. With my Cyclone intake manifold and cams I was hitting full boost around 3400ish. I know its just a 50-trim, but it gives you an idea of what a larger turbo will be. IMO I think the DBB turbo helps alot more on transient reponse over spoolup. I really don't loose any boost between shifts, its pretty much instant.
 
I run a PTE SCM6076 dual BB turbo at 25psi daily, and it spools by about 4500 rpm with comp 101200 cams and a smim. Like blackGSX2g said, transient response is amazing, especially on no lift to shift with DSMLink.
 
I got my dual ball bearing PTE 50-trim right when they came out. They had a low intro price and I bit. I ended up waiting a month or so to get it from PTE, but when it finally came it was well worth the wait. I've been driving on it for almost a year now, boosting 30psi daily with no problems what-so-ever.

Spoolup really depends on your tune and your mods. With my Cyclone intake manifold and cams I was hitting full boost around 3400ish. I know its just a 50-trim, but it gives you an idea of what a larger turbo will be. IMO I think the DBB turbo helps alot more on transient reponse over spoolup. I really don't loose any boost between shifts, its pretty much instant.

I have found that these were not as cracked up to be in terms of transient response and recovery spool as it was originally market, reason being that the wheel design was not setup in conjunction with the new cartridge. The reason why the GT performs the way it does is because of the differing wheel design, and how it works TOGETHER with the BB cartridge. Without the use of the both, the cartridge alone just doesn't cut it from my experience with several DSMs, SRT4s and Hondas. Look at why you can't simply SWAP over a GT rear housing from a standard T3/T4 one ; because the wheels are indeed different. And yes, I've driven and helped tuned both BB Cartridge, GT, and Journal bearing setups.
 
I got my dual ball bearing PTE 50-trim right when they came out. They had a low intro price and I bit. I ended up waiting a month or so to get it from PTE, but when it finally came it was well worth the wait. I've been driving on it for almost a year now, boosting 30psi daily with no problems what-so-ever.

Spoolup really depends on your tune and your mods. With my Cyclone intake manifold and cams I was hitting full boost around 3400ish. I know its just a 50-trim, but it gives you an idea of what a larger turbo will be. IMO I think the DBB turbo helps alot more on transient reponse over spoolup. I really don't loose any boost between shifts, its pretty much instant.

Agreed. I received my BB50 a day or two before the prices skyrocked from 750 to 1050, so it was DEFINITELY worth it. Transient response is much crisper and spool up is 2-300 rpms sooner (25 psi @ 3600). I write this because I have had experiences with BOTH a standard CHRA 50 trim and my new BB50 trim. However, if I were to have enough cash to shell out on a PTE BB turbo, I would spend the extra 100 and get an FP3052 or FP3065 :thumb:
 
Agreed. I received my BB50 a day or two before the prices skyrocked from 750 to 1050, so it was DEFINITELY worth it. Transient response is much crisper and spool up is 2-300 rpms sooner (25 psi @ 3600). I write this because I have had experiences with BOTH a standard CHRA 50 trim and my new BB50 trim. However, if I were to have enough cash to shell out on a PTE BB turbo, I would spend the extra 100 and get an FP3052 or FP3065 :thumb:

I got my PTE with a T04S cover for $650 through a connection brand new. If I had to pay $1050 or whatever for one now, I would definitely go for a FP3065:thumb: .
 
...if I were to have enough cash to shell out on a PTE BB turbo, I would spend the extra 100 and get an FP3052 or FP3065 :thumb:
$100 more for the turbo itself maybe, but there is also the extra cost of the downpipe/O2 housing setup that you'll have to change since it won't work with your existing O2 housing.
 
You can get GT-series bolt-on turbos in PTE housings. That's my main problem with the DBB 50 trim- why buy a ball-bearing 50 trim at $1050 when you can get a GT3076R at $1150? Why buy a ball bearing 60-1 or SCM61 when you could get a GT35R for less than 200 dollars more? At the introductory price they were a good deal but at nearly the same price as the GT equivalents, maybe not.
 
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