psi in a 420a

[napkinthief]

ok im looking around for how many lbs to boost my 420a, I keep reaidng different numbers in each thread I see. I seen as low as 4, but in other threads someone has told me a turbo would not hold 4 stable. Highest I've seen was 12, but I dont think the engine can hold that much. I am thinking around 7-8 psi for me, port the exhaust housing to stop any creep, and just stay at that. Also, I am on a stock head gasket, would a MLS one do me 1-2 psi more security? ARP studs too? How much would the engine hold with the MLS and the ARP studs?

 

[selmerguy]

how long did you search for this information?

your stock 420a will last for awhile at 8 intercooled psi. if it has good compression now. make sure you have enough fuel or bye, bye ring lands.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

How many threads are you going to post about boosting your 420A?

I agree with Selmerguy in asking how long did you search, the answer is out there. Yes people run 4 psi, people run 5 psi, 6 psi, 7 psi, etc... It is in many threads that the highest amount of boost to run on stock internals is 8 psi. Also like selmerguy said make sure the fuel support is there, otherwise the boost won't be for long.

Sorry if I came off as an ass, but the past 3 days i've seen numerous 420A'T threads started, all of which the answer could have been found in a search.

 

[GSGoinFast]

I run 8 daily. Anything above that, your braver then me

 

[napkinthief]

ok and with the mls gasket would I be able to push it a little more? and the arp studs? or would they just help it run at 8 without blowing

 

[dr1665]

ok and with the mls gasket would I be able to push it a little more? and the arp studs? or would they just help it run at 8 without blowing

It's not necessarily a question of blowing your HG as it is ####ing up your piston rings. Fry them, crack them, smoke them and you lose compression. Then you have major power loss, possible misfiring, and even the chance of contaminating your oil supply.

If you're going to boost a stock block, keep it low. You will never, and I mean never, regardless of which DSM engine you have, run with the big boys on a stock bottom end. Turbocharge your engine. Do it. But be sure to tune carefully and start saving for a rebuild. I've been in 2GNTs running 7, 10, and 15lbs (built) and it's all fast(er). You're going to have fun regardless.

The question is this: Does the amount of boost you can run have any bearing on you turbocharging your car? I think not.

 

[vbeclipseracer]

Do the damn 420a right. Spend some time and do your research. there is no daily driven turbo car so you might want to reenforce your engine before you turbo. i have a 420a and max so far that i have had it up while racing is 15psi i plan on taking it up to 20psi. thats because i have all forged internals and bored out and head work. so if you want to turbo your eclipse dont shit on the mitsubishi's name buy not doing it right. or you can be stupid and weak by running 5 or 6 psi. when your waste gate runs more than your turbo DAMN

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Do the damn 420a right. Spend some time and do your research. there is no daily driven turbo car so you might want to reenforce your engine before you turbo.

Ummm, what? So you're saying that there are no daily driven turbo cars? Mine is on stock internals, turbo'd and I drive it daily. As do many other 420At owners that we don't know about.

or you can be stupid and weak by running 5 or 6 psi. when your waste gate runs more than your turbo DAMN

So not having the money to turbo AND build your engine at the same time, makes you stupid and weak? I believe "stupid" would be turboing the car on stock internals and running more than 8 psi daily.

I've seen numerous 4g63 guys bash the 420at owners, but never have I seen a 420At owner bash another...Kind of makes me sad..

 

[dr1665]

there is no daily driven turbo car so you might want to reenforce your engine before you turbo.

Oh please. I know of several. Some even running ten pounds on stock internals. It's all in the tuning and driving style of the owner. This is not a completely black and white subject.

i have all forged internals and bored out and head work.

Bored out? Wow. Impressive. I don't consider common shop practice to be a reason for running more boost. It's like saying, "I had my internals balanced, blue printed, and my block hot tanked, so I can run 20psi." "Forged internals" and "headwork" is not all it takes. More details.

if you want to turbo your eclipse dont shit on the mitsubishi's name buy not doing it right.

Yeah. Shit all over Mitsu's name by boosting your originally non-turbocharged Dodge engine. If the turbo system is well thought-out, properly installed and adequately tuned, running low boost is in no way doing it "wrong."

or you can be stupid and weak by running 5 or 6 psi.

Or you can be stupid and weak by running your mouth like a tool.

Jesus.

 

[eldiabloz13]

Sorry we may not have 800-1500 bucks to blow on forged parts like you. Unlike select few we do this for the fact of working on our car, but in the end we still got bills to pay and have to put food on the table.So if some of us say screw haven fun and take care of our families first then shit I guess we mine as well kill ourselves now because I guess were doing eveything wrong in life then. I'm not directing this all to just you man, its to eveyone who makes post like your's.

 

[WHite97RS]

just do whatever you can afford, but if your car is a daily driver, i would stick with no more than 8 psi, depending on a compression check. plus pay no attention to the idiots on this site.....theres more and more becoming members everyday. Any boost is better than none at all in my opinion. It took me three years to finally turbo my car, and i don't even have bills to pay . Good luck with your car, keep us posted on your decision.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Not to jump to any conclusions or anything, but does anyone find it weird that there are no pictures of that guys car/engine? I know I thought it alittle strange..Not to mention, likely.

Like DR said earlier, it isn't about blowing the headgasket, worries should be more on the rings, but 8 is usually the number those of us with stock internals don't like to exceed.
Goodluck

 

[GSGoinFast]

Well, after seeing the email of what he said, I was going to come on here and set this guy strait, but I see you guys did a great job already. I love you guys

 

[dr1665]

Well, after seeing the email of what he said, I was going to come on here and set this guy strait, but I see you guys did a great job already. I love you guys

You got the email? Uh-oh. My computer at home must be in trouble. I'm not getting alerts forwarded to my gmail.

I hate seeing someone come out of the wood work and put another Tuner's dreams down. Especially when they write at a 4th grade level. I wouldn't be surprised if that guy posted a reply in Crayon...

 

[WHite97RS]

had no clue that AEM made a intake for turboed 420As "aem turbo intake " nor did i know that JE made FORGED piston rings, "je forged rings". Sweet mods list on that kid.

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

Sorry to take over this thread but I also had a question...

My 420a has 113,000 miles on it. Im lookin to turbo it with my bro's old turbo from his srt-4. Ive hear that its not exactly possible to use that turbo, since the manifold is a part of the turbo. But Ive heard that it could possibly bolt right up, but since no one has done it, im sure it doesnt fit. I also have heard that there is an adapter for the SOHC neons for the srt-4 turbo, which I dont think that it would be different from DOHC like the eclipse 420a's. I was thinking about running 3-4 psi with a SMIC. I would have to mod the wastegate to run that psi since the bov can run a minimum of 4. Anyone think this is possible and/or safe??

Thanks for your help

 

[napkinthief]

i just saw a turbo kit on ebay pulled from an srt4 engine, includes the turbo/manifold, oil lines, and some other things. no intercooler but it was only around 140$. didn't want to risk it not bolting up since im working on getting a turbo that will bolt on


meanwhile, i bid 120$ on a t25, exhaust housing, 4g63 header stainless steel tubular headers, sotck o2 housing, o2 sensor and, o2 dump, i have until tommorrow 12 noon to decide if i want to take the 2nd chance deal, what do you guys think? the turbo is still clean looking but the exhaust housing is looking a little brown/rusted. heres the pic

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shipping is 30 for a 150 total

would I be able to drill new holes into the exhaust manifolds part that connects to the engine and bolt it on that way or would there be other problems?

 

[selmerguy]

my honest opinion is that you need to read a lot more. and by a lot i mean a lot. also i would quit trying to turbo your ride the cheapest way possable. the t25 is kinda small and the header will not seal even if you drill new holes. as for the srt stuff. do you know that the srt4 turbo systems are all one piece? now i don't know about you but that sounds like crap to me. and should something go wrong you would most likely have to replace the whole mani/turbo/bov setup. and figure a way to make the electric wastegate work. getting my point yet????? read till your eyes hurt. then when your almost blind you might comprehend what it takes to turbo your ride.

 

[napkinthief]

Ive read and I know pretty much all I need to know how to turbo my car. Im looking for a cheap way to turbo because I want to get a gst or gsx in about a year. I just want to see how I fare putting in my own turbo, then get rid of the car for a factory turboed one.

I never said anywhere I was using the SRT-4 turbo, someone asked in a previous post if it will fit, and I said where I saw one they could get for reasonable cheap. I never even considered taking the srt combo turbo to install into my car.

As for the T-25, my choices for turbo are either a 14b or a t-25. Because of my driving style, and the quick spool up of both of these turbos, I decided that either one would be fine for my application.

You've got it stuck in your head that I don't know what I'm talking about from the first time you posted in the thread.

the header will not seal even if you drill new holes

is all I needed to know.

Change your attitude.

 

[selmerguy]

i have no attitude (positive or negitive) just telling you like it is. as for you knowing what it takes to turbo your car. you probably do. but if you had read enough you would not have asked the question you asked.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90464&highlight=4g63+header
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96797&highlight=4g63+manifold

 

[GSGoinFast]

my honest opinion is that you need to read a lot more. and by a lot i mean a lot. also i would quit trying to turbo your ride the cheapest way possable. the t25 is kinda small and the header will not seal even if you drill new holes. as for the srt stuff. do you know that the srt4 turbo systems are all one piece? now i don't know about you but that sounds like crap to me. and should something go wrong you would most likely have to replace the whole mani/turbo/bov setup. and figure a way to make the electric wastegate work. getting my point yet????? read till your eyes hurt. then when your almost blind you might comprehend what it takes to turbo your ride.

Now what is wrong with that?

As for the T-25, my choices for turbo are either a 14b or a t-25. Because of my driving style, and the quick spool up of both of these turbos, I decided that either one would be fine for my application.

T3. When i was seraching for turbos, T3's were much more abundant and much cheaper then the previous 2 listed

 

[napkinthief]

I was under the impression that the t-25 and the 14b are the quickest spooling turbos. And since they came stock on 4g63t, I thought they would make the best turbo to start off with on my car. I will take a look at T3s too. Thanks for the heads up.

I have a friend with a MIG welder and he welds for construction, would I be better off paying him for supplies and letting him weld me an ex. manifold together, or getting one off ebay for ~200$?

 

[selmerguy]

Now what is wrong with that?


T3. When i was seraching for turbos, T3's were much more abundant and much cheaper then the previous 2 listed

you did it the cheap way as i did. but we still did it the right way. you made your mani. i had mine made. don't make me get the pics of your home depot 90 degree elbows . I was going to say something about using t3's but his "driving style" is more suited to the t25 or 14b turbos. I have a small t3 right now and it spools at about 2900 rpm. fits my "driving style" just fine. Ok i'm spent, done being a ass(maybe) lost my cool and we all know thats my meal ticket

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

To safely run 3-4 psi on a 420a w/ 113k miles on it, what would I need? I would get a SMIC from a gst, but would I need to control air fuel ratios with a wideband if im only running 3-4 psi? I realise that I could fry a few things if my ratios are messed up, but wouldnt an EGT guage monitor whats happening in my motor internally? Im sort of lost when it comes to this stuff How big of injectors would I need if any? Im trying to see if its worth it because I have a turbo at home that could work, but Im trying to do it reletively cheap

 

[BigRand]

at 3-4 psi, a narrow band will be just fine, as long as you stick with the stock injectors, and go with an FMU that gives you more fuel per pound of boost (ie. 3:1, 6:1, or on the real safe side 12:1), don't forget the bigger fuel pump. But yes an EGT would help if you had something to tune the fuel with like an SAFC, but if you run the fuel compentents I just listed you should be really rich at that point. But a wide band and EGT will tell you for sure, but a narrow band (and I can't believe I'm saying this) should be aight for what your looking for.