psi in a 420a

[DSMcrazy3]

The switch to make the dash light go on?

Yes

now, I am looking to get 250 hp or as close as possible without touching anything internal on the engine, this kit will get me near 200, what else can I do after wards? which guide would I follow now, the turbo 2g or n/a 2g?

Very improbable. The kit will get you near 200 horsepower yes, with a nice tune which I will talk about under the next quote. After you turbo the car there are other mods that you can do to increase efficiency and performance, but I don't think they can propel you to the 250whp mark. Some of them are, Cams and valve train, bigger throttle body and port/polishing work.

The money it would take to get those jobs done(cams, valves, etc..) would probably end up being more than having the engine built, so think about that.

and would having a air/fuel gauge be enough to tune with if I just keep it slightly more towards the rich side for now?

No it won't be enough to tune with. What gauge are you talking about though? Narrow band, or wideband?
If narrowband...Hell no it won't be enough to tune with. Even so, you still need the tuning device, such as SAFC2, megasquirt or emanage. Something of the sort.

If you're going to get an a/f gauge, just save your money and get a wideband setup. I wish I had done that.

 

[napkinthief]

ok thanks for the info, i just got my turbo and intercooler in the mail today

turbo is pretty dirty, covered in engine grease, wastegate looks rusty and exhaust housing is a light brown/red color, the same as my current exhaust manifold.

what can I use to clean it up? engine degreaser? should I unbolt anything or plug any holes?

 

[napkinthief]

this is the a pillar that i am wanting to get

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-9...ewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQitemZ4593052415QQrdZ1

i get to choose 3 out of the 7 gauges they have, which ones should i pick up

i was thinking a/f, oil pressure and boost, but you say the a/f isn't enough so which other should i choose?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I would just get the 2 gauge bezel for the gauge cluster. Then two autometer gauges. For some reason, those just don't seem to durable to me. If you got what I am saying, it would probably be $20 more. You would have one less gauge, but they are name brand, and many people use them and are satisfied.

 

[selmerguy]

this is the a pillar that i am wanting to get

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-9...ewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQitemZ4593052415QQrdZ1

i get to choose 3 out of the 7 gauges they have, which ones should i pick up

i was thinking a/f, oil pressure and boost, but you say the a/f isn't enough so which other should i choose?

those gauges are crap!!!!! they look cool but they last about a month. i saw this happen on my friends eclipse. he bought those gauges and they all craped out on him within a month. floating boost needle, oil pressure not working, and the af gauge...... well it's a narrow band right. get some autometer gauges. don't skimp on the stuff that monitors your motor. think about it, and you still need to read a little more too. i wish you all the luck on you turbo project and your future rebuild too. if you need more help you can pm me.

 

[napkinthief]

well i cleaned my turbo with throttle body cleaner and a sponge, and its pretty damn clean now, just a question about which hole for oil feed vs oil return?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

The oil feed hole will be tapped with threads in it, and the return line is a flange on the turbo, it has a square hole, that the oil will come out of, and 2 threaded holes to bolt a flange on.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

exhaust housing is a light brown/red color, the same as my current exhaust manifold.

That's because they are cast iron. After they heat up and cool off and heat up and cool off they tend to turn that color permanently.

 

[napkinthief]

ok i was just looking over my turbo, theres 4 holes, i see a flanged type one, so I guess thats the return...but the hole is a circle not a square

but there are 3 oil feeds??

ill post pics in a bit

 

[DSMcrazy3]

ok i was just looking over my turbo, theres 4 holes, i see a flanged type one, so I guess thats the return...but the hole is a circle not a square

but there are 3 oil feeds??

ill post pics in a bit

No only one oil feed. It will be the one on the opposite side of the return hole.

The other two holes, after the feed and return are eliminated. Are for cooling. Again, one is the inlet for coolant, the other is the outlet.

Most of the time when we turbo 420A if the turbo has cooling ports, they go un-used. Not sure how it affects the life of the turbo though.

 

[napkinthief]

so should I plug them or just leave them as they are?

wouldn't running coolant into the turbo reduce temperatures?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

so should I plug them or just leave them as they are?

wouldn't running coolant into the turbo reduce temperatures?

If you don't run any lines it is ok to just leave them, you could plug them as well but I don't think any damage could really be done with them being open.

Yes usually coolant will keep temperatures down..

 

[XMasta19]

umm, a lot of guys don't use them cause their turbos are oil cooled only. please do yourself a favor and hook up the water lines...oil and water cooled turbo is better than just oil cooled. plus you don't have to worry as much bout the whole timing your turbo situation as much.

 

[napkinthief]

what do I hook them up to?

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Here is a easy to read diagram of where the water lines are sourced.

 

[napkinthief]

use hose, pipe, or ss hose for the coolant?

and for those fitting to get the oil pressure gauge and feed line to work, I cant seem to find them all...

I have the 3/8 hex niple and the 3/8 female tee, but i cant find the reducer or the flare small as 1/8

 

[DSMcrazy3]

I don't think there is a 3/8 to 1/8 reducer, you have to get a 3/8 to 1/4 then 1/4 to 1/8

 

[napkinthief]

When I drill into my oil pan, would JBWeld work or should I weld it? My welding kit is a torch thing with oxygen and mapp gas.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

When I drill into my oil pan, would JBWeld work or should I weld it? My welding kit is a torch thing with oxygen and mapp gas.

It should work, but I don't know if I would want to rely on just JB weld. I have never used it though so it may be better than I think it is. I do know it gets hard as shit so. At least give it a day or two to cure if you use it

 

[selmerguy]

yes hook up the water lines if you have them. you can use a flaring tool and pipe fittings to male it all neat. also napa has 3/8 to 1/8 npt reducer. and for the fitting just weld the darn thing. take about 1 min.

 

[napkinthief]

It should work, but I don't know if I would want to rely on just JB weld. I have never used it though so it may be better than I think it is. I do know it gets hard as shit so. At least give it a day or two to cure if you use it

I used jbweld to put on my muffler using a 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 exhaust piping from autozone. The clamps I had on kept coming off, and the muffler kept falling off. After I jbwelded it, never had a problem again.

 

[napkinthief]

Heres an update on what I have and I got a question:

Turbo w/ wastegate (13g whats the stock wastegate at 8?)
Exhaust housing (unported)
1g bov
1g smic
255 walbro
Aeromotive FPR (what psi do I want the fuel to be at? or is it depending on the amount of fuel i need)
oil lines on the way, still looking for the 3/8 to 1/8 reducer and the 1/8 to 1/4 flare
nothing to tune with yet
no gauges

first i want boost and oil pressure gauges, but I dont want to spend too much on them. I want white back with green backlight, and if no green backlight is availible ill mod it to be green. I like the apexi el series, are they good? slowboy is selling boost for 140, is anywhere cheaper?

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=4779&

does that gauge light up and how good is it?

what should my oil pressure be at? how much a range of oil pressure on a gauge do I want, 0-100 0-150 or 0-200?

If the link I gave is good gauges, I will go with all of my gauges from there. They are autometer I think.

thanks

 

[selmerguy]

the autometer gauges come with a white light and two colored caps.(red green) i would got with them. as for your oil pressure gauge 0-100 is fine. your pressure when warmed up and idling can be as low as 11 psi. while driving should be around 50. some one on this fourm with more green squares than me said, that the oil pressure gauge is kinda worthless. cause you either have it or you don't.

 

[XMasta19]

ooh, a 13g turbo...that sucka must be huge.

according to your list of used parts etc, I would say you're just trying to be turbo and not run too much boost for now....why did you get an aeromotive fpr you want an fmu to raise the fuel pressure at a high ratio for your stock injectors...ie 12:1. LOWES KNOWS, I got all my necessary fittings from there...I'm in Alaska, if my store has them...they all do. Go with autometer phantom gauges...mechanical boost and electric oil pressure. I got mine from car domain as I've noticed their prices to be the cheapest, unless going the ebay route of course. As for the oil pressure gauge...get it. I think I remember what selmer is talking about, but you definitely want one...if you're driving and you have it, then notice bam your oil pressure drops or is gone completely....turn the car off. You might not have that much luck at a chance of saving the motor with the factory dummy light. please help yourself out some by doing some more research before this project is finished and up and running...otherwise your car is gonna end up on jackstands in the garage like someone I know

http://www.cardomain.com/item/ATM5701
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ATM5727




oh yeah....you're welcome

 

[napkinthief]

ooh, a 13g turbo...that sucka must be huge.

about the size of a box of poptarts

according to your list of used parts etc, I would say you're just trying to be turbo and not run too much boost for now....

yes

why did you get an aeromotive fpr you want an fmu to raise the fuel pressure at a high ratio for your stock injectors...ie 12:1. LOWES KNOWS, I got all my necessary fittings from there...I'm in Alaska, if my store has them...they all do.

I dont have the fpr yet, but i have the money for it sitting in my drawer, what would you consider a cheaper alternative? I will most likely never run more than 8 psi. I do not plan upgrade the turbo, unless maybe to a 14b for a bigger housing and a little more flow, but still at 8psi.

Go with autometer phantom gauges...mechanical boost and electric oil pressure. I got mine from car domain as I've noticed their prices to be the cheapest, unless going the ebay route of course. As for the oil pressure gauge...get it. I think I remember what selmer is talking about, but you definitely want one...if you're driving and you have it, then notice bam your oil pressure drops or is gone completely....turn the car off. You might not have that much luck at a chance of saving the motor with the factory dummy light. please help yourself out some by doing some more research before this project is finished and up and running...otherwise your car is gonna end up on jackstands in the garage like someone I know

thanks for the advice... for the electric oil pressure, do I still need to T the fitting from the block from the oil feed?