Street Build Project Precious:My new car/project

[92AWDHX40]

Nice I know there is a lot of wire protection out there where did you get yours from.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Nice I know there is a lot of wire protection out there where did you get yours from.

Thanks man
I'm trying out [for the first time] the NA wire loom brand [Nippon America], but if I could find it at a reasonable price, I' would have hands down used the Alpha wire loom for sure, I have used them in the past with great success, the new stuff from NA is better then I had expected, but clearly not as good as the Alpha stuff I had used in the past, I think a hot knife might be needed to reduce the risk of fraying with the NA brand, And i'm planing on using extra long high quality Rychem for heat-shrink tubing to put under the flexible braided to keep dust and other unwanted stuff away from the wires, then put marine heat shrink on the ends as a double measure.

I made this 1g to 2g maf adapter, and I wrapped it in the NA stuff just to see how it would turn out.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Updates: on the project...

I order a "92 CA spec ecu from a member on here, this should help get the car CA smog legal.

I also had pick up 2 non turbo dash to motor harnesses, in order to make the hacked "90 one that I have whole again, the longer of the two halves is the one I'm planing on using, I pulled all the old electrical tape and tubbing from it, because I had to add some ecu pins [hence why I pulled 2 of them] in addition to adding ecu pins, I also had to delete all the TCU wiring from the longer harness [it came out of an auto 1g] pay no attention to the golden box pictured above [it's just a "90 cruise control computer] I'm not sure if I'll be able to incorporate it into the final build, but we'll see.

I used my "90 Talon harness as a reference just to see what was absent and what went where.
it helps to have a complete unmolested wire harness on your car, that you can use an ohm meter on, and get info from [like I did from my Talon], a notebook helps a lot too, just in case you cant remember some stuff or want to keep records of it all etc.

My advice for anyone that wants to do this, first make sure that you are ready, and up to the task, its at least a few hours worth of work just un-looming it all, but it's best to try doing 1 or 2 operations at a time, and don't expect to be easy, it takes time to do it right, especially without prior experience or knowledge.

Secondly mark everything, and try to keep it as neat as possible[sharpies and masking tape is your friend here], you want to be certain your looking at the right wires before you cut something out, or modify anything, and that is why it's so important to mark everything, and understand what it all goes to, by knowing what it's function is and or where it goes.

Thirdly if you get lost or can't find something out you have 2 ways to go about it, ask the right people for help, or figure it out on your own, via more research[Factory service manuals help here], and testing, but if your frustrated take your time and figure it out rationally.

Thats enough of my free mini seminar on wire tucking I might do a more clean writeup in the future when time permits have a happy cyber Monday fellow tuners.

More updates on the project soon.

 

[mitsubishikid]

I know it's been a while since I added updates, things have been real busy out here, I've been investing my money time and manpower on getting and installing better tools, so gathering all the stuff that goes with it and hooking it all up has been my focus, but things I ordered for the project have still been arriving to complete the build the last thing I was doing was wire harness work, and to keep everything organized I'll share more of my plans for the harness.

I ordered 2 milspec 128 pin fittings, and an adjustable crimping tool, because I know I'll need it in the future to get this project looking and running the way I want it to.
I figure I'll mount it on the firewall and seal the original wire loom location might go another route but that is the plan for now, I still have to hunt for the weather sealing ends for the mil spec connectors... If anyone has a suggestion on where I can source them from please feel free to leave me a link.

I hope you all have a happy new year...I know its a bit late, but it's the thought that counts.


Hopefully I'll have more updates for you guys soon, my brother will be taking a welding class this year, and I plan on ordering a decent quality welder for him to use, I plan to see if I can get his help to make my precious Golum Golum AWD .

 

[dieselgenset]

wow very detailed , keep it up man

 

[keltalon]

Nice work!

 

[mitsubishikid]

Thanks for all the support and comments guys , I appreciate it, I plan on doing more cool stuff to the car this year, after I get my new air compressor setup, I'll be able to get back to cleaning and powder coating.
Some more parts arrived...

These are some poly-urethane mount inserts I ordered, the small one on the left is part number 13-506-BL[I received this earlier but I pulled it out for this photo], and the other three are the same number 13-501-BL all are from Prothane but you likely already knew that. [They also come in RED, so when the time comes for the Colt... ahem "Red Rocket" to be 4G63T swapped, I'll add a RED at the end of the part numbers instead of the BL ] the small insert [13-506] is for the rear mount, and the other three are for everything else, I think I'll have to modify one via trimming it down to get it to work, but that's about it.

More updates soon so stay tuned.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Some helpful Update...

Pictured below is, a stock 1.5 "89-"92 Colt/Summit/Mirage [CSM] booster [on the left], an "06 Hyundai Elantra booster [in the middle] and lastly the 3rd gen eclipse GT booster [on the right].

I did some further testing, and I will share that the 3G Mitsubishi Eclipse GT brake booster will not work on my Mirage, nor will the 1G or 2G boosters for that matter, well not without lengthening the booster mounting studs some... so I went junkyard hunting, and I came up with a great mod the "06 Hyundai Elantra GT with 4 wheel disc brakes, had a really good booster, the bolt pattern and spacing is the same as a csm/dsm, and it also has a plastic spacer that is vary similar to the stock aluminum one, and it's a dual diaphragm booster, which is better for all wheel disc setups then the stock single diaphragm booster, I can also still use the
1 1/6th bore brake master cylinder from the 3G Eclipse GT, as well as it's brake proportioning valve.

 

[mitsubishikid]

I know it's been a while but rest assured I'm committed to the swap.

So some updates: I did more thinking about the wire harness and came to the conclusion that, I should tuck it after the car gets inspected, that way I can focus on rust proofing some of the suspension parts at the moment.
below is some pictures of my efforts...

Before [on the left]

after [on the right]​

It took a lot of hours blasting and prepping the "92-"95 Elantra control arms, but I like the overall end result...time to order some urethane lower control arm bushings.

I also got the Expo knuckles blasted coated and rebuilt too... also seen above: a keen eye will notice the 1g dsm 5 lug hubs... I also coated them for future use [For use when I swap the 4 bolt rear in] I still have to clean up the 4 lug expo hubs for current day use.

I started prepping a valve cover via sand blasting, yeah it needs more work... and yes I know one of the spark plug cover bolts is chipped, but I'm going to have my brother fix it after welding school deal .
more updates soon.​

 

[GJLS]

Looks Great

 

[mitsubishikid]

well I did some hunting on the net, and I have found some direct fit urethane bushings for the "92-"95 elantra control arms that I plan to run in the mirage, but the downside is they cost a lot more after shipping, to the USA, then your typical urethane suspension bushings, and I noticed 1 of the 2 bushings on the elantra control arm looks sort of generic, so I decided to get custom with it. I ordered some prothane bushings these are the closest size to fitting bushings I could find [Black part # 19-607-bl] I also ordered a second set in red for the red rocket [Red part # 19-607] below is a picture of my finished work.

It took approximately 40 minutes to mod these to work on my elantra control arms, I had to cut them down and grind off some material on my bench grinder, I used a drill to spin the bushings as I ground them if I had a lathe it likely would have taken a lot less time... I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and order the pricey rear D shaped one's from superpro... if not I'll update.

I also cleaned up, powder coated, and rebuilt a 1g dsm CV half-shaft that I intend to run on the Mirage.
more updates soon.

 

[White flour1gawd]

This is going to be awesome

 

[cano86]

Wow great thread, the progress has been great! You are very lucky with those 2 finds. I've been trying to get my hands in one of those or even the mirage coupe, but here in CT is nearly impossible. I had to settle with a 2g spyder. Good luck with your build and project.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Wow great thread, the progress has been great! You are very lucky with those 2 finds. I've been trying to get my hands in one of those or even the mirage coupe, but here in CT is nearly impossible. I had to settle with a 2g spyder. Good luck with your build and project.

Thanks man, And yes these cars are getting harder to find, But California has a few of them for sale every now and then.

 

[mitsubishikid]

I finally got some more free time to work on the precious, I previously pulled a power steering rack from another 89-92 Mitsubishi Mirage/Colt

I basically De-powered the above pictured steering rack, It is vary similar to De-powering a dsm rack, I ordered some brass pipe plugs in both sizes of M14x1.5mm and M16x1.5mm, I also used a small amount of thread sealant on the pipe plugs, I fully cleaned the insides of the rack out.

Some other rebuild parts that I used:
"03 Hyundai Tiburon GT: inner and outer tie rods, and the dust boots, They are more beefy then the comparable mirage components, they should play nicely with more of my future suspension upgrades.

[image above: old worn parts]
After I got it all cleaned up, I put new synthetic grease on all the moving parts, and added new P/S fluid to steering gear unit, then I finished rebuilding the rack, and I sealed all the holes with the pipe plugs installed the boots...

...Now I just have to finish cleaning up the brake calipers, and the brackets, I decided to bite the bullet and order the urethane rear D shaped bushings for the lower control arms, it's gonna be a wait for them since they are on backorder, but in the meantime I'm going to be prepping parts for the swap.
More updates to come soon.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Brake calipers, and their brackets, are clean coated and ready for a rebuild .

More updates soon.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Nice I'm running those too til I upgraded to strictlys brake set up.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Yeah these are vary good brakes for the money, especially for a small car like the mirage/colts, I have them installed in my red colt hatch already [I also swapped in rear discs, all stainless brake lines, added the bigger booster, and the 1 1/16" master from a 3g eclipse, and I'm running a 3g eclipse brake prop valve in the colt as well] [for more on the colt check out the link here: http://www.4g61t.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=64&t=40884]... and dude it's soo good a setup that every time I drive the mirage I think theres something wrong with the brakes, because they don't react like the colts at all, but the steering in the mirage is miles above the colts... ...What one lacks the other excels in... sometimes I feel like both cars have a rivalry fit for my attention .

 

[mrt0mjones]

Get. It.

NICE!

 

[mitsubishikid]

Update: well a lot is going on at present, got some good news and some bad news, "The Good news", I installed my coated elantra lower control arms, the elantra/GT 20mm sway bar and it's urethane bushings, I also threw on my coated expo knuckles/hubs, 2 piston calipers, and the yoshifab camber plates...

"The Bads"

1: Both of my front struts are blown.[ordered some stock ones already].. it explains the floating on water handling I still installed the camber plates just to see if they would help with the next problem... [hint: they didn't]

2: The Tiburon inner tie rods were a tad too long to adjust the toe out [right now my wheels are toe in so bad I can't even drive it ] but I'm working on procuring another shorter set that are still thicker then the stock ones which are not really weak per say, but I figure, if I'm doing this anyway why not try to find something stronger then stock units.

3: I'm using rubber brake lines for now [stainless lines are on the way tho].

more updates soon.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Decided to share some other good info, for people doing the 4G63T swap, that intend to keep their A/C, I figure the best way to keep your A/C [if your car does not have factory A/C on the 4G15 non turbo 3g colt/summit/mirage, is for you to try and source a setup with all the lines etc. from another "89-"92 colt/mirage/summit with the 4G15 SOHC 1.5 motor.
[Note: if your lucky enough to find a DOHC 1.6 4G61 CSM then you can make it work on a 4G63T, it's literally a bolt on solution and all pulleys match up as is, just remember to bring all the, bolts, brackets, tensioner,wires or sensors, etc.]

[Image above]The major difference is in pulley design the 4G15 has a single v groove, and it won't play nicely with the 1g dsm 4 rib crank pulley.

[image above] 1g dsm compressor on the left, "89-"93 Mitsu Galant SOHC compressor on the right [notice I removed the pulley from the Galant compressor].


Now here is the trick to getting a 4G15 SOHC compressor to work with the 1G dohc 4G63T pulley,
you remove the 6, 7mm headed bolts, that hold the pulley onto your stock 1.5 compressor housing, and then slide the old single groove pulley off, then you install the 4 rib pulley from an "89-"93 Mitsubishi Galant A/C compressor [ Note: even the SOHC 4G63 2.0 Galants have the right pulley, I pulled mine of off a SOHC 4G63 Galant]

[image above] this is a 6 bolt that I plan to run in the mirage possibly... ...anyway you will notice that I mounted the "89-"93 SOHC Galant A/C bracket to the 4G63T [Note: that the galant and CSM compressors only have 3 mounting bolts for the compressor, by contrast the dsm compressor has 4 mounting bolts]

Just in case anyone is wondering, I do not plan on de-pressurize my A/C system, and so far it looks like it's possible to do the swap with the A/C system charged still, I just have to be really careful .


I'm getting vary close to a 4G63T swap just a few more things.

[Image above: I managed to find some Ultra rare cool OEM mirage mud flaps, I'm also running the OZ rims now... ...looks .]

---PS>--- some closing thoughts about the A/C that I had...
I looked into another solution to getting the belts to work on a 4G63T, but I never tested it, might be worth a try, the idea was to basically use the "89 Hyundai sonata's pulley, it will bolt onto a 4G63 crank and it has a v groove on it for it's A/C compressor, but again as stated earlier I never tested this, but might work.

I'm Still waiting on some parts, so I might update if I do something that needs to be documented, More updates soon .

 

[mrt0mjones]

very cOOL!

 

[mitsubishikid]

Update: Some parts arrived.

Starting on the left [image above]: we have my D shaped SuperPro urethane rear lower control arm bushings, for peg mounted Elantra lower control arms, part # SPF1142AK These bushings add some caster. [Tip: part # for the urethane SuperPro, non peg mounted, bolt on type Elantra LCA part number is SPF0839AK... These also have increased caster].

[image above] In the middle we have some M16 x 1.50 banjo bolts to 1/2 barb fitting adapters from kinugawa, I'm basically going to use a "90 dsm 6 bolt oil filter housing with these, since I forgot to pull the lines and the oil cooler at the parts yard, I'm going to buy a new after-market oil cooler for now.

[Pictured above: on the way right] I have a full set of 8 stainless dot approved brake lines from 3SX Performance, these are for a 3000gt base N/T model, my hope is that these will work with my current setup, we will see soon enough.

More updates soon.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Update: I finally got the right inner tie rods... ...well so I think a little more testing.

[Image above] Top to bottom we have: #1 "85-"89 Dodge Colt Vista 4wd, #2 "89-92 mitsubishi mirage[basically what came on the car stock],#3 "90-"94 Eclipse aka 1g dsm ones #4 bottom one "01 Hyundai Tiburon

Specs of each inner tie rod Below [according to the parts store]:
#1 Length (In): 12.43 Inch (mm): 315.7mm/ outer tie rod thread pitch M14-1.50 [Colt Vista]
#2:Length (In): 12.39 Inch (mm): 314.7mm/ outer tie rod thread pitch M12-1.25 [3g Mirage]
#3:Length (In): 13.059 Inch (mm):331.7mm/ outer tie rod thread pitch M14-1.50 [1g dsm]
#4:Length (In): 13.56 Inch (mm): 344mm/ outer tie rod thread pitch M14-1.50 [Tiburon]

As you can tell i have them from shortest, inner tie rods, to longest so the problem I faced was I wanted slightly beefier inner tie rods, and it didn't help that I already bought new outer tie rods that were 14.50mm the mirage threads are 12mmx1.50, I tried the Tiburon ones, they were way too long, I then used 1g dsm ones... ...they were better but still too long to adjust toe, [yes I could have used the stock mirage ones but they were worn out and I already bought new outer 14.50mm tie rods] hopefully these will work will update on that soon.

Partial update: on the brake lines so far the front 3SX stainless brake lines worked like stock on my mirage. they even utilized the stock mirage, strut mounted, hard lines and u shaped clip mounts, I still have to install the rears but I'll do that when I get the inner tie rods in hope they fit.
more updates to come.

 

[802 Garage]

Wow this is epic! I love it when people build less popular or unloved models. Your work is an inspiration to someone like me starting their first DSM build and restoration.