Problem with car running ??Please help

[97gstturbo]

So I wake up one day and my car decided to not start on me. Car was cranking but nothing .I ended up changing fuel pump,coil and all the plugs and wires are only a month old. Also I pulled my injectors and cleaned them .I eventually got the car to start but it wants to shut off and eventually it dies. Also my lights in car flickr alittle. If I hit gas while car is on it also shuts of. So I look over everything I did and once I get to my injectors I notice that there is no fuel coming out of them like it did when I first pulled them. Anybody kno what's wrong with my car and what it could be?

 

[1995 gst]

how long where you driving the car after you changed the fuel parts.

 

[gofer]

I'm going to try and knock out EVERYTHING it could possibly be, both ignition and fuel. The quickest and easiest to check is ignition at the cylinders so I'll start there, and I suggest you start all over. Who knows if something was missed or overlooked, I don't know how many times I was scratching my head for days trying to find something like this and it ended up being simple.

VERIFY ECU OPERATION

1. Turn the key to the "ON" position and watch for the CEL to illuminate, it should come on for approximately 5 seconds and then go off. In addition to watching the CEL, also watch the stock boost gauge, the needle should move halfway up the gauge.
   • It NEVER lights up: The ECU might have a blown sensor ground or the 20A MOTOR fuse, in the fusebox under the hood, is blown or missing (my friends like taking mine). The 2g ECU sensor ground is Pin 92 (2g ECU Pinout) and can be visually checked by pulling the casing off the ECU and looking at the solder run. Below is a picture of a REPAIRED sensor ground that was blown, thanks ECMLink! You can check continuity with a multimeter between pin 92 and the solder point where the red arrows pointing.
   • It DOESN'T go off: The ECU has a DTC stored on it and you'll want to hook up a scanner to see what it is.

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VERIFY SPARK AT ALL (4) CYLINDERS

1. You'll want to check that spark is getting to the engine as its turning over. Everyone has their own way to do this however, I've found the easiest is to use two people to make it effective. One person should be sitting in the front driverseat to crank the car over, the other should be under the hood watching for the spark. To do it, remove a spark plug (start at 1 or 4 and work your way down the engine) and plug it back into the plug wire after its out of the motor. While holding the spark plug wire, ground the threads of the spark plug on the valve cover, then cue the person to crank the car over. Verify that there is spark between the electrodes, then repeat for the other (3) cylinders and write down your results.
   You might need to just swap plug wires depending on the model year of your 2g and the CAS you're using, follow the below figure and make sure they are hooked up correctly.
   • None or TWO have spark: Continue to step (2).
   • ALL have spark: Jump to VERIFY FUEL.
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2. Its time to start testing a few sensors, pay close attention to the following links and how-to's. Its very easy to skip a step, which will give you different results, pay attention to detail and take your time.
   • Coil Pack testing
   • Power Transistor (PT) testing
   • 1g CAS testing / 2g CAS & CPS testing
   • Noise Filter (Capacitor)- Reduces "noise" created by the coil/alternator on 12v power line. Ensure its plugged in and grounded/bolted to something so its secured in your engine bay.

VERIFY FUEL AT ALL (4) CYLINDERS

1. First you'll want to make sure you're even getting gas to the fuel rail, once again you'll want someone helping you do this. Remove the fuel line going to the passengerside of the fuel rail, be careful doing it because if there is pressure in the rail it will spray fuel. Once you remove the line going into the rail, put it into a small gas tank (or old cup if you don't mind ruining it) and have the person helping you crank the car over a few times.
   • NO fuel:Check for 12v at your fuel pump connector when the engines cranking, you'll want to check for voltage at the pin going to the BLK/BLU wire.
     • 12v is there: Replace the fuel pump.
     • 12v is NOT there: Pull your MFI/MPI relay and test it OR replace it.
   • Fuel: If there is fuel to the rail then put the line back on (make sure the o-ring isn't cut) and tighten it up so it doesn't leak. Un-bolt the fuel rail from the head, leaving the injectors in the rail and plugged in, after you remove the rail. Set the injectors on the head, facing the front of the car, once again placing them toward a bucket so it can catch the fuel as it sprays out. Have someone crank the car and watch the injectors, ensure ALL of them have a nice spray pattern and pulse as the engines cranking. Wearing eye protection while doing this check isn't a bad idea either, there is a chance you get sprayed with fuel.
     • Some or NONE work: Don't give up yet, there are still a few things to test with a multimeter to make sure its working.
       • Test your injector resistor pack
         
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       • Measure resistance across the injector terminal with the plug disconnected, it should be 2-3 ohms across it.
       • Test the MFI/fuel pump relay
         
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     • ALL of the injectors work: Put everything back together, making sure none of the o-rings are torn, and go to the next step.
     
     CHECK MECHANICAL TIMING
     1. 2g timing belt replacement
        
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     2. If you've got a '97-'99 CAS, check that the camshaft position cylinder is oriented the way it should be on the intake cam. The paint stripe on it should be FACING the CAS when the engine is at TDC, like so...
        
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     3. If you've got a 1g CAS, make sure its at TDC with the engine and the timing marks on it are lined up as well.
        
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     IF EVERYTHING YOU'VE DONE SO FAR HAS CHECKED GOOD DO A COMPRESSION CHECK.
     1. Disconnect your spark plug cables, spark plugs, & CPS connector to disable all fuel/spark getting to the motor.
     2. Thread in the compression tester in one of the spark plug holes, with someone cranking the car and giving it WOT, measure the compression on each cylinder.
        • Upper Limit: 178psi
        • Lower Limit: 133psi

Hopefully with ALL of the above information it will be enough for you to find the issue. If anyone see's anything else they can add PLEASE add it!