Possible transmission issue

[GSXofLV]

Ok the issue i'm having is the difficulty in getting in to gears without grinding. with the clutch on the floor it still wont go in to reverse without grinding, and 2nd and 3rd are a P.I.T.A. as well. This is a rebuilt transmission that i've had for 8 months maybe... and new clutch, new flywheel, new master cylinder... all 8 months old. any suggestions would be great. I'm inbetween mechanics at the moment and i dont quite know the ins and outs of the transmission.

 

[Lofty]

Pull back the slave boot and inspect for fluid. What's your clutch fork position look like?
Is there fluid in the trans? Have you tried syncromesh? It's great!

You sure you don't have a leak in the hydraulic system somewhere?

 

[EuroDriver]

Manual?

 

[Lofty]

Manual?

This is a very stupid question.

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

This is a very stupid question.

Hahahahaha! Indeed.

 

[under50k226]

Ok the issue i'm having is the difficulty in getting in to gears without grinding. with the clutch on the floor it still wont go in to reverse without grinding, and 2nd and 3rd are a P.I.T.A. as well. This is a rebuilt transmission that i've had for 8 months maybe... and new clutch, new flywheel, new master cylinder... all 8 months old. any suggestions would be great. I'm inbetween mechanics at the moment and i dont quite know the ins and outs of the transmission.

Just make sure its not the master or slave cyl. Make sure you got fluids where they need to be, i've never tried the syncromesh but i've read since i've joined that it works wonders... Anyway good luck! JC- What clutch and flywheel and mc? Stock?

 

[EuroDriver]

Hey! I got tried already by another DSMer who had an automatic but asked for the slave and master adjustments..

THIS IS A RE-RE-POST FROM ONE OF MY OLD POST.. HOPE IT HELPS

The slave and master system for the clutch works hydrolically. The type of hydrolic fluid does affect it's operation. (higher heat) It should be the same stuff that you have in your brakes.

>The master sits inside the engine compartment next to the brake master and booster and has the reservior and clutch pedal attached to it.

You can follow the line to the slave.. if you wanted to

>>(inside)The clutch pedal is attached/held to the master by a single "bolt" and pin. The bolt can be removed and the master has a screw bracket. This can be screwed out/in. You can adjust the clutch pedal height using this.

This adjustment will affect when/how much the master cylinder engages the slave.

For example:

If you back the screw all the way out. The clutch will engage high, ensuring that you are using all of the cylinder. (slave side = nipple all the way out as far as it can go) The instant you push the pedal, it starts to engage the clutch and continues until probably about half way.. (but you still push to the bottom.. if you like, I do) This will also get rid of any play in the pedal. (my preference) << This is how I set mine

>>>HAZARD! If you go out too far.. the clutch slave stays engaged. Yes, even without the pedal. This will lead to Master and slave wear, burnt clutches, falling out of gears, and slippage with torque. BUT the trannie will be safe.

If you back the screw all the way in. The clutch will engage low, not ensuring that you are using all of the cylinder. You will push the pedal about half way or more before it starts to engage.. The pedal will have a crap load of play before it engages the clutch.

>>>HAZARD! If you go in too far.. the clutch slave won't engage enough. Yes, even with the pedal to the metal. This will lead to grinding, broken gears.. you get the picture.. The reason is because you are forcing the trannie into gear with a half ass clutch.

There is a balance there.. if you just wanna be in the middle with some play but it's difficult to find. The master and slave do wear and have to be adjusted with normal wear and tear. The service manual gives (.04-.12 in.) of pedal play.. YES, that's all you should feel before you feel the master cylinder. The play before clutch is (.24-.51 in.)

>The slave cylinder is located on the bottom and is very visible from underneath the front of the car. You'll see it's little nipple and sits next to a lever. It pushes the lever, engaging the clutch. It has a bleeder valve, like brakes. You bleed it the same way.

>>>HAZARD! If you can't adjust the pedal like I told you, then one of these are bad. I normally replace the slave, bleed and adjust. The master will be obvious.

Like I stated before, many people don't adjust this and end up tearing up transmissions. I broken shift forks in half and ate syncros in a 300ZX TT because I didn't know about the system. (same clutch system) That cost me $2,000 to rebuild. All because of stupid adjustments and cheap master/slave cylinders.

 

[GSXofLV]

sorry guys for the lack of response... i was in cali for the weekend. i just got back and now have to go to work. i'll check everything out that you recomended tonight when i get off and give some answers. thank you all for your suggestions. and yes... not a smart question hahaha

 

[BrokenTsi]

Synchromesh does NOT work wonders. Its too light, almost water-like. I used to use it back in the day, but most transbuilders advise against it.

This is what I follow for gear fluids: Jacks Transmissions LLC &mdash; Oil

If you pump the clutch several times, will it go into gear better? Try it out.

 

[DSM1G90]

Redline MT-90 or AMSOIL Universal tranaxle is tonnage better than Syncromesh.