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poor acceleration after rebuild

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anubis

15+ Year Contributor
234
4
Jul 23, 2003
Hemlock, Michigan
first, here's what happens:

accelerate gently through first gear, shift at 3k. accelerate gently through second, shift at 3k. accelerate gently through third - this time it takes a while, shift at 3k. crawl through fourth but can't make it to 3k even with wot. put it in fifth and it won't accelerate at all - even at wot.

so here's the story:

i got a n/t 4g63 from a fellow dsmtuner from canada. he said it had roughly 60thousand miles on it. i tore it down to the shortblock. i left the crank, rods and pistons alone. i checked them and made sure everything was ok and it seemed to be. i eliminated the rear balance shaft and left the front one in without running the b/s belt. everything was cleaned and reassembled with new gaskets. the only difference in the engine is the brand new 3g lifters in the head and a blocked off egr valve using a block off plate. a few other things that i don't think are important but could be are that i have a solid intake pipe, header, and 2.5" exhaust, iridium plugs, and 10mm wires. i also have polyurethane mounts and haven't put the axle-back part of he exhaust back on because i need to have a different muffler put on.

after i dropped the engine back into my 92 laser, i fired it up. it was the easiest initial start i've ever had after extensive work. it ran great with the exception that it kind of sounded like a diesel engine. i let it run for a while and the ticking got a little better, but it's still pretty bad. the engine ran for about 20 minutes.

well tonight, i bled the clutch and took it for a spin for the first time in almost 2 years. it's been so long because i beant the intake valves when the b/s belt broke. i removed the engine to build something crazy and never got around to it. so it sat for a while. since i've got a fresh head gasket, i was taking it easy on her - that's why i was shifting at 3k.

so what's the deal?

here's a few other things that may or may not be helpful:
i used the original wiring harnesses and sensors that are on the laser - not the ones from the engine. i don't have a vaccuum hose going to the top (round part) of the egr valve - i don't know where that line goes anyway and i have a blockoff plate. what little gas was left in the tank was mixed with some fresh gas, but i've still got less than an 8th tank. my timing is on (both mechanical and electrical). the biss was tinkered with because i wanted to replace it with a newer one that i had, but i couldn't get it out. i believe i have it reset where it should be. i have a hacked maf which worked just fine on the car before the "new" engine. lastly, i haven't performed a compression check because i don't have the tool for doing it.

you're help is greatly appreciated. if i think of anything else that i should add, i will do so. if you need more information, let me know. i will also update if i make any progress or have anything else to add. thank you.
 
all right, it's been four days... lots of views, no replies... this happens to me all the time.

anyway, i'm planning on picking up a compression tester later to see if i've got a good seal on the combustion chambers - i sure hope so. i'm also going to recheck my timing if i can get my hands on the timing light again. i really don't understand what would cause the car to do this...

if anyone has any input, i need it. i need to get this dsm back on the road so i can get my fixer-upper taurus on the road so i can take my 240sx convertible off the road (follow that?). i fear if my vert sees another michigan winter, it's going to rot so bad it won't be worth restoring. please help save my vert!
 
Don't know if I can help but I'll try. Is it smoking at all? Have you checked for any leaks in the intake piping or couplers? How's your oil pressure? Sounds like you have good plugs and wires, but are they new or old?are they gapped properly?If it sat for a while maybe it could be the gas, or a bad injector?

I'm not getting any help here either and I can't post anywhere else yet :mad:
 
no smoking, no leaks, as far as i know... i'll double check that. plugs and wires are good and gapped properly, injectors seem to be working fine. the strange thing is that i can rev it just fine in neutral and throttle response it great; but under load (3rd-5th gear) it's very weak.
 
I know you're trying to be complete, but there just isn't a lot of information to go on.

First things first, pull the spark plugs and see if they all look the same.

YOu say it runs/sounds bad, which might be a misfire/running on 3 cyls. For the most part cars are very simple, fuel, air, spark = a running engine. Now you need to know why one of those is not happenening either in one cyl, or just operating correctly. I'd check fuel pressure as well.
 
i haven't re-checked the plugs since i got it to fire. before, they all looked the same - they worked just fine in the car before my first misshap which has lead me to this rebuild. i don't think it's misfiring or running on 3 cylinders, but i could be mistaken. i'll recheck that next time i'm on it. i'll also check the fuel pressure to make sure it's normal. i'm pretty sure i've got the trinity (fuel, air, spark) is on my side, but i might have the CAS off 180* - i'm not certain i put it on correctly so i'll recheck that too.
 
iridium plugs
Turbo DSMs run horribly rich under normal circumstances and the smaller electrode sparkplugs cannot self-clean properly and are prone to foul.

This is the reason if you search on "Platinum" or "Iridium" you'll see many posts saying not to use them in our cars instead using the std NGK BPR6ES or 7ES copper plugs.

From NGK's Site:
Ultra Fine Electrode

By harnessing the power of Iridium, DENSO is suddenly able to shrink the surface area of the center electrode - the critical component of a spark plug. Unlike a typical platinum plug that has a 1.1mm diameter center electrode, DENSO Iridium Power plugs have the world's smallest center electrode measuring 0.4mm in diameter. This means that the voltage requirements are decreased while firing performance is greatly improved.
You can see how if folks are having problems with a 1.1mm diam Platinum Electrode a 0.4mm diam electrode will be that much worse :dsm:
 
perhaps i was not clear on this detail... this problem is with my 92 NON turbo 2.0 laser. my 90 turbo laser has been dead for a while due to a broken valve - long story.

as far as the iridium plugs go, i have never had a problem with them before. if and when they screw up, i'll get normal plugs again. anyways, i'm not running rich. my exhaust smells normal and my plugs aren't flooded.
 
i haven't had a chance to even touch the car since last... thursday. life has been extremely hectic. so no, i have not yet checked the compresson.

i was supposed to work on it last night, but my wife and i were hit by a dear. we were driving the 240sx convertible and it trashed our car.

so anyways, hopefully tomorrow i'll be able to check the compression and recheck the electrical timing.
 
ok, i did a compression test this weekend. it wasn't a very good one though - it was a cold test and i'm not sure my friend (who i had turn the key) was holding the throttle open. but i was getting the same numbers across all 4 cylinders. i'm going to redo the test tomorrow. i'm going to take it out for another little spin and see if i can get it to at least warm up. then i'll make sure the test is being done properly. so i'm not sure if these results are even going to be any good. i'll post again when i've got better results.
 
this may sound *crazy* since you're having problems with a N/A . . . but if you could get ahold of the equipment, I would suggest doing a "boost leak" test on that thing. If you have a significantly large intake leak, that'll throw your A/F way off and you'll lose power . . . maybe even risk burning up a few valves.

But on the more simple side of life, I would definitely suggest a compression test as others have (make sure it's on a warm motor) and recheck your timing.
 
OMFG!!!

all right, took the car for a spin to warm it up last night before continuing trouble shooting. it was still giving me troubles, but we got it back and checked the timing while it was running. ok, it was about 40* BTDC:notgood: so we adjusted the CAS... maxed it out and it was still about 20* BTDC. out of time... but not adjustable electronically = out of time mechanically :mad: we pulled the #1 plug and watched the piston until it was at TDC. it looked like it's about 3 teeth off on the cam gears! wtf?! i reset/rechecked the fricking mechanical timing about 8 times! so i'm going to have to do it again:cry:

on the good side: compression was good - around 210 across. i also noticed that the band clamp holding my cai had lost it's grip - so i took care of that too. so saturday i'm going to redo the timing - again. just when you think you know what you're doing...:rolleyes:
 
anubis said:
we pulled the #1 plug and watched the piston until it was at TDC. it looked like it's about 3 teeth off on the cam gears! wtf?! i reset/rechecked the fricking mechanical timing about 8 times! so i'm going to have to do it again:cry:
It's much easier if you insert a long screwdriver into the plug hole and stop when it's mid-dwell. If the camshaft timign mark(s) are not aligned and the tick on the crank pully is not at TDC on the scale, then STOP RIGHT THERE and correct the timing belt alignment itself.

Once at that point then you can adjust Base Idle Speed and then Base Timing (with the grounding terminal grounded of course ;) ) :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
It's much easier if you insert a long screwdriver into the plug hole and stop when it's mid-dwell. If the camshaft timign mark(s) are not aligned and the tick on the crank pully is not at TDC on the scale, then STOP RIGHT THERE and correct the timing belt alignment itself.

we did this when it was dark outside, so it was easier to just shine the light in the plug hole and eyeball it than it would have been to go in the garage and grab something to stick in there.:cool:

as far as lining up the cam gear/crank pulley marks, i'm afraid i'm going to pull it and see that it all lines up and #1 won't be at tdc... i don't know how that would be possible... i'm just having a really hard time understanding how this could have happened... other than jumping time somehow...

i really hate screwing the special tool all the way down to the tensioner while the engine is in the car... it takes forever.
 
When you installed your T-Belt, did you rotate the engine manually 4-full revolutions and then re-check the tensioner rod? Last time I did the job it took me a couple attempts to get it within spec.

Also as an FYI, a separated crank pulley can cause cause a timing belt to jump time (or worse) :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
When you installed your T-Belt, did you rotate the engine manually 4-full revolutions and then re-check the tensioner rod? Last time I did the job it took me a couple attempts to get it within spec.

Also as an FYI, a separated crank pulley can cause cause a timing belt to jump time (or worse) :dsm:

yup, probably turned it more than that. got the tensioner in spec.

as far as the crank pulley... i never thought of that... i don't like the sound of it either. i'll check that too.
 
i'm real confused now...:confused:

i pulled the timing covers to get a better look at my mechanical timing, again. the marks all line up almost perfectly. when the cam gears are level, the crank gear is off by half a tooth. seems ok, well i checked to see that the piston was at tdc and ... it's not. when the #1 piston is at tdc, the cam gears are off about 3 teeth and the crank is off about 2. WTF

so i pulled the belt carefully and got the cams lined up. then i rotated the crank to get #1 at tdc (i used a dipstick to see/feel when the piston was at it's crest). sure enough, the crank gear is about 2-2.5 teeth off the timing mark. aren't the crank marks supposed to line up when #1 is at tdc????!! if so how on earth can this be?
 
The plate in back of the crank pulley can be installed backwards, at which point (since it's not 100% symetrical) would make the TDC mark at the crank pointer <> TDC at the #1 piston.

Remember when checking TDC on the #1 to stop at mid-dwell (e.g. it pauses at the top) ignoring all the other timing marks on the engine so as not to be distracted. Then and only then check the crank backing plate mark w.r.t. the pointer. It should be aligned :dsm:
 
OMG

that's not something i ever knew and i don't think it's mentioned in the service manuals... either that or i've just overlooked it and been lucky the last few times i've rebuilt an engine. now i think i'm ready for a red screen name:D

as far as inspecting to see if #1 is at tdc, that's exactly how i did it.

thursday i'll probably work on the car again. i'll check the plate and that'll probably by my culprit. i'll let you know.
 
i definitely had that plate on backwards. it was so painfully obvious that i'm not sure i'm the one who put it on incorrectly. it may have been my brother or my friend who were both helping with the rebuild.

regardless of who was at fault, i have it on correctly now and got everything put back on tonight. i started it up and it was beautiful! it runs perfectly now.

thanks for the help.
 
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