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PLX M300 installed, now car wont run!!???WTF!!

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exiletalon

20+ Year Contributor
303
7
Nov 14, 2005
Aurora, Colorado
I just installed the PLX M300, I removed the 2nd o2 sensor for the PLX sensor, and plugged it to my gauge also, well the PLX/gauge turn on, and the car starts.
but then it sputters at about 150-200rpm, sits, both PLX/gauge display LEAN!!! and the car dies, however the car was running amazing before I did this, I believe it is the fact that I am no longer using the 2nd o2 sensor, but is there a way to make the car run good again and stil use my PLX??
And Why wont my car run!!!!WTF???
 
The car will kick a CEL for no rear O2 but that will not change how it runs in the slightest. All the rear O2 does is tell you if the CAT is working or not by checking the delta of the voltage from front to rear sensor.

Something else is causing your problems, probably a short or a connector not plugged in.

What are you using to control the 650's? I assume a SAFC or MAFT? If it is the SAFC check your settings and see if it cleared out.


I ran my car for a year with no rear O2 sensor and all it did was give me a cel for the O2 sensor and the O2 sensor heater. I just installed a DSMLink and have sence killed the DTC for the O2.
 
Is it possible that the ground could have come loose, or that I plugged it into my autometer narrowband for a gauge
 
The instaltion of your wideband has nothign to do with issue that you have with your car now, unless you cut the fuel line :coy: or put some beer into your gas tank last night after you've got drunk... You should drink vodka from now on, it has higher octane level....;)
 
Do you have the WB going to the ecu? If so try unplugging your autometer gauge, that might be messing up your signal.
 
No, the PLX has 2 wires grey/white- grey - wideband external gauge, and white is the narowband external gauge- so I took the o2 sensor wire from my autometer useless gauge and connected it to he white wire of the PLX, power and ground are to both seperstly, and the PLX sensor is installed and plugged in.- so whta does any of this have to do with the car crapping out?
 
GVR4592 said:

Obviously not.



To me it sounds like you hooked up the wideband output to the front O2 sensor input and that won't work. Hopefully you didn't hurt anything in the ECU.

You only need to hook up the narrowband output to the ECU unless you are going to simulate that signal and not use a front O2 sensor. If you are trying to use the wideband and log it with a tunning device, like DSMLink, then you will need to find an imput source that reads from 0-5 volts. I am nto sure what yiou can use on a 2G for that but I know there are more options that for us 1G guys.
 
Can I just unplug everything and sell this product of satan- by the way- I mixed up my words, and I connected the grey wire to the gauge- I read the directions several times.
 
exiletalon said:
Can I just unplug everything and sell this product of satan- by the way- I mixed up my words, and I connected the grey wire to the gauge- I read the directions several times.

You can do whatever you want, but this isn't a product of Satan. It took me maybe 30 minutes to install and start logging with DSMLink. In reality it isn't hard at all and any other wideband you get will have the same or more difficult instalation procedure.
 
the install was easy- I jacked it up- but the sensor in place of the 2nd o2, pulled the seat, plugged it in, ran power/ground- and ran the grey wire to my A/F gauge, that was it like- 10min.
 
I had a similar problem when I put in my innovative wideband, the car would barely run and I mean barely, most of the time it wouldn't even start, it turned out we shorted out the ecu and fried something on it.
 
Why are you saying second sensor?
You're not talking about the sensor after the cat are you?
Or do you have a second hole for an O2 sensor in your DP after the O2 sensor housing?
You do know that you are supposed to remove your O2 sensor from the O2 housing and replace it with the Bosch O2 sensor that comes with the PLX-M300.
 
:tease: You are talking about the downstream O2 sensor....
Pulled the seat.... What seat? You should've put it in the O2 Sensor Housing.
The damn Bosch O2 Sensor that came with the kit has to either replace the o2 sensor in the housing, or go in a hole in the DP.
The NB signal goes to the ECU and the WB signal goes to either the digital read out, DSMLink or both.
If there is a way to make a WB work off of the downstream O2 sensor location, then I apologize. But common sense tells me otherwise.

I wish they had a smilely for PULL YOUR HEAD OUT!

exiletalon said:
the install was easy- I jacked it up- but the sensor in place of the 2nd o2, pulled the seat, plugged it in, ran power/ground- and ran the grey wire to my A/F gauge, that was it like- 10min.
 
Strm Trpr said:
If there is a way to make a WB work off of the downstream O2 sensor location, then I apologize. But common sense tells me otherwise.

I wish they had a smilely for PULL YOUR HEAD OUT!
You can put it in that location and log it with a logger if you don't have a cat installed. Sometimes the ECU doesn't like the simulated narrowband output, so you should keep the stock front O2 sensor installed if possible.

And of course there's the argument that widebands don't like the heat the upstream location is subjected to.
 
So there is a way.... Then I apologize.
I prefer to monitor the A/F at the O2 Sensor housing or just below it in the DP rather than plugging it in way downstream.
I agree that some WB kits may not perform well, but PLX makes some really awesome kits, and should be hooked up correctly in the O2 Housing.
 
Strm Trpr said:
So there is a way.... Then I apologize.
I prefer to monitor the A/F at the O2 Sensor housing or just below it in the DP rather than plugging it in way downstream.
I agree that some WB kits may not perform well, but PLX makes some really awesome kits, and should be hooked up correctly in the O2 Housing.

Actually according to PLX the correct area would be about 24" inches away from the turbo.

This is taken from there forum,

PLXSupport_PL said:
We recomend 24" downstread from your turbo to avoid high EGT that may damage or shorten the life of the sensor.

If your vehicle is running low boost, I would say your 4" or so is fine. If your running above 6-8PSI... I would recomend 24" or greater.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, would this allow one to run the O2 in the stock location and feed the ECU NB signals and then one could tap their DP and datalog the WB signal with the Link or equal.
 
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