Please help with choosing clutch setup

[ArcaineGST]

My clutch is going out (slipping and smelling) and I need to replace it before it's too late. What I am looking for is some feedback from people with similar modifications, what clutch kit they went with, and how they like it. I tried searching this and came up with great threads, but couldn't find similar setups with posted hp/tq specs.

I will soon be getting the evoIII 16g with an ets front mount with the gm maf setup. My goal as of right now is pretty much an all bolt-on car because it is my daily street driver; with the occasional race around the track.

I'm trying to decide between the ACT 2100 and the 2600 kit with the Fidanza flywheel. Suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Also, is there anything else you guys recommend replacing at the same time? I don't want to have to do this twice if I miss something.

 

[snowborder714]

Most people will recommend getting the 2100 because of the pressure of the 2600 (for a FWD 7 bolt). I have similar mods (you can check my profile) and have a 2100 installed and it should be perfectly find for your application.

As for other stuff to replace - master/slave cylinder, throw out bearing (get an OEM one and not the one that comes with your clutch), possibly clutch fork and fulcrum ball if they look bad. You could also get a SS clutch line from RRE. I have one but haven't driven my car enough to tell a difference (and my clutch is going so that doesn't help either). I'd also recommend getting a SpeedBleeder bleeder valve for the slave cylinder as it makes bleeding the slave a heck of a lot easier.

 

[ArcaineGST]

Hey thanks for the input. I have a couple questions though. Is the OEM TOB stronger than the ACT one, or do you recommend it because it's a plastic sleeve bearing? Also, do you think the slave cylinder extension rod would be worth doing too? Finally, your talking about the speed bleeder for the brakes right?

 

[snowborder714]

Some people have had problems with the ACT tob because they used to be metal I believe. They did change them over but everyone still recommends going with OEM.

I don't know too much about the slave extension rod, but from what I've read, it just seems to be a band-aid for another problem. I wouldn't worry about it at all. As long as you install the clutch properly and adjust everything, you shouldn't have a problem!

As for the SpeedBleeder - there is a bleeder valve in the slave cylinder. You take out the one that is in there and replace it with a SpeedBleeder bleeder valve. Yes, they are the same ones used for your calipers. It uses a M10 X 1.0 bleeder valve (SpeedBleeder part # SB1010).

 

[ArcaineGST]

I was going to go with the OEM tob, but I just wanted to be sure.

Apparently "Please help with choosing clutch setup" wasn't a catchy enough title. I should have made it something like "HELP!!! BURNED OUT CLUTCH!!" So thanks for the help

I'll let you know how it goes when I finish it up.

 

[SOADweskey]

I'm with him that the 2100 will be enough for your car. I have a similar setup. Big 16G, SSAC Front Mount, intake, exhaust, fuel pump, 720 Injectors, and DSM link. I have the Center-Force clutch on my car and it is working really well for me. Occasional Drag Racing and some road course usage. I really like it.

 

[n55long]

Some people have had problems with the ACT tob because they used to be metal I believe. They did change them over but everyone still recommends going with OEM.

I don't know too much about the slave extension rod, but from what I've read, it just seems to be a band-aid for another problem. I wouldn't worry about it at all. As long as you install the clutch properly and adjust everything, you shouldn't have a problem!

As for the SpeedBleeder - there is a bleeder valve in the slave cylinder. You take out the one that is in there and replace it with a SpeedBleeder bleeder valve. Yes, they are the same ones used for your calipers. It uses a M10 X 1.0 bleeder valve (SpeedBleeder part # SB1010).

You NEED to get the extension rod, if you dont, you will burn through the clutch in no time. the problem if you dont get one is that your clutch will not fully disengage from the flywheel. i had the same problem when i put my 2100 in and i burnt through it within 10k miles of daily driving. if you dont believe me, install it on your car, and since its FWD, jack up the front and check out the wheel spin with the clutch disengaged, it still spins. an extra 15 bucks is better than an extra 300 bucks for a clutch.

 

[SwitchSkier]

You NEED to get the extension rod, if you dont, you will burn through the clutch in no time. the problem if you dont get one is that your clutch will not fully disengage from the flywheel. i had the same problem when i put my 2100 in and i burnt through it within 10k miles of daily driving. if you dont believe me, install it on your car, and since its FWD, jack up the front and check out the wheel spin with the clutch disengaged, it still spins. an extra 15 bucks is better than an extra 300 bucks for a clutch.

There deffinetly isn't a "need" for a extended rod. If you get a new clutch fork, pivot ball (shimmed), master/slave cylinder, and everything else is functioning properly you shouldn't need a longer rod at all. The fork is going to bottom out when it bottoms out, it can't make it go any further. I just installed an ACT2600 and replaced all the stuff I said up there, including an SS line, and it it engages and disengages fine. Like you'll hear countless times in this forum, it is just a "bandaid" to cover other problems.

 

[snowborder714]

You NEED to get the extension rod, if you dont, you will burn through the clutch in no time. the problem if you dont get one is that your clutch will not fully disengage from the flywheel. i had the same problem when i put my 2100 in and i burnt through it within 10k miles of daily driving. if you dont believe me, install it on your car, and since its FWD, jack up the front and check out the wheel spin with the clutch disengaged, it still spins. an extra 15 bucks is better than an extra 300 bucks for a clutch.

I agree with switchskier. He pretty much said it all.

And if you NEED the extension rod, then you NEED to adjust something in your clutch system more (or you should have replaced a part that is out of spec). That is probably the reason you burned through your clutch.

 

[ArcaineGST]

I agree with switchskier. He pretty much said it all.

And if you NEED the extension rod, then you NEED to adjust something in your clutch system more (or you should have replaced a part that is out of spec). That is probably the reason you burned through your clutch.

Well, good. I can save the extra couple bucks. So far my list is as follows:

-ACT 2100 kit
-Fidanza flywheel
-Master & Slave clutch cylinders
-Fork & ball (I prefer to change them now and not worry about it later)
-OEM Throw out bearing
-Speed Bleeder (to save some time)

I see that BG Synchroshift is pretty much the best tranny fluid to use for DSMs. True?
This is getting a lot more expensive than I imagined, .

 

[snowborder714]

As far as tranny fluids, I haven't really read that there's a "best" one. I did some research and also e-mailed Shep. I described my tranny (high mileage, was told it was raced before, etc.) and asked him what he'd recommend. I'm using Pennzoil Synchromesh. But I have read a good bit about the BG stuff too. If anyone else has more info, please post.

Yes, it may seem expensive now, but would you rather have to drop the tranny again because your tob went or something else goes wrong? Do it once and do it right

 

[TAndrus]

Well, good. I can save the extra couple bucks. So far my list is as follows:

-ACT 2100 kit
-Fidanza flywheel
-Master & Slave clutch cylinders
-Fork & ball (I prefer to change them now and not worry about it later)
-OEM Throw out bearing
-Speed Bleeder (to save some time)

I see that BG Synchroshift is pretty much the best tranny fluid to use for DSMs. True?
This is getting a lot more expensive than I imagined, .

How much is that all going to cost? I'm probably going to get a similar setup soon too.

 

[-TunedDSM-]

A stainless steel clutch line would also be a great thing to pick up at this point. They are pretty cheap and I noticed a nice difference after installing mine. Heres a link to the one I got:

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=20438&cat=612&page=1

You may also have to replace your axle seals in the tranny, but they are only a few bucks from NAPA

 

[JayRolla]

I think you should go with the 2600. It may be a little harder to push but if you cant do it you must have women legs. Anyways the 2600 is rated up too 400lbtq. The 2100 is only rated at 322lbtq. Also the 2600 has been known to handle a lot more abuse. This way if you do get a larger turbo you wont need to upgrade it.

Also you dont need the extension rod. It is only a band aid. Like said before replace the master cylinder and slave cylinder with OEM units. Make sure the clutch line is in good shape and replace if neccessary. Also if the flywheel is not stepped correctly it will not engage right.

 

[Loewen21]

Honestly once you get used to the 2600 its not a big deal. I have been daily driving mine for over a year and i dont mind it all. I actually really dislike some of the really really soft clutches on cars out there and would rather have something with a a little bit more feel to it.

 

[ChunkyLover53]

There have been some good reports about Fidanza clutches. Their 2.1 is similiar to the ACT 2100 and the 3.2 is similar to the ACT 2600 only apparently the 3.2 does not require the same leg strength that the 2600 does. It's worth checking out this thread. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240420&highlight=fidanza+clutch

 

[SwitchSkier]

Deffinetly also get new driver and passenger axle seals. Also, while you have it open, you can replace the rear main seal, I did. Once you get your tranny out, and put it back in, you're going to know why you replaced all those things now. Putting that damn thing back in really requires some serious tetris skills, especially if you're just using a regular jack+piece of wood like I did.

 

[snowborder714]

How much is that all going to cost? I'm probably going to get a similar setup soon too.

Please fill in your profile so that I can help you get a cost for everything (right now I have no idea what car you have).

 

[ArcaineGST]

How much is that all going to cost? I'm probably going to get a similar setup soon too.

So far here's what I've found:

-Clutch kit and flywheel ...............$530 (Extreme psi)
-Master and Slave cylinders .........$165 (Buschur Racing)
-OEM TOB ..................................$30 (Buschur Racing)
-Clutch fork and fulcrum ball.........$65 (RRE)
-Speed Bleeder............................$7 (Speed Bleeder)
-SS clutch line..............................$23 (Extreme psi)

All in all just over $800. But I'm sure as I keep shopping around I might find better deals. Start looking and let me know if you find anything.

Deffinetly also get new driver and passenger axle seals. Also, while you have it open, you can replace the rear main seal, I did. Once you get your tranny out, and put it back in, you're going to know why you replaced all those things now. Putting that damn thing back in really requires some serious tetris skills, especially if you're just using a regular jack+piece of wood like I did.

Thanks for your's and TunedDSM's ideas for the axle seals. If they're only a couple bucks at NAPA then I might as well do them. I think my Tetris skills are pretty in tuned as well, but I'm at home right now so I can't do it myself (loft parking).

As far as the 2600, it would be nice to have the stiffer one, but having a 7-bolt FWD I don't want to push my luck. What I understand, is that a heavier clutch tends to increase the chance for crankwalk. The comparison chart on RREs web site puts the 2600 at the top too http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ecldrivetrain.htm

What kind of mileage have you guys been getting with your clutches? Only because I like the idea from Chunkylover53s thread link about how Fidanza uses a race plate and relies on the disc to do the work. Thoughts?

 

[snowborder714]

As for the clutch and flywheel, I'd check out www.maperformance.com as they have really good prices on them right now. ACT 2100 and Fidanza flywheel for just over $500. The SS line is about the same price as Extreme. But look around at any of the supporting vendors. Most of them are willing to price match too!

I'd get the bleeder valve directly from SpeedBleeder.

As for the OEM parts, I would recommend getting them from here - http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214331

Here's the part numbers and prices:

Clutch Items
MD706185 - Retainer clip - $1.11
MD749998 - TOB - $22.46
MD770506 - Fork - $46.56
MD719602 - Fulcrum - $6.54
MD749823 - Slave - $42.96
MB910562 - Master - $81.84
MD718077 - Boot - $7.75 (optional)

 

[TAndrus]

Please fill in your profile so that I can help you get a cost for everything (right now I have no idea what car you have).

Done

 

[ArcaineGST]

WOW!! Thanks! I'll definitely order from trademotion.com. So much cheaper for OEM parts. I didn't think to search for OEM sites. Good work man

Except i couldn't find the retainer clip, fulcrum, or boot. I sent them an email asking if they're on backorder or something. If not, I can always get the ball from RRE.

 

[turbosax2]

WOW!! Thanks! I'll definitely order from trademotion.com. So much cheaper for OEM parts. I didn't think to search for OEM sites. Good work man

Except i couldn't find the retainer clip, fulcrum, or boot. I sent them an email asking if they're on backorder or something. If not, I can always get the ball from RRE.

Just enter the part number in the "Search by factory part number" field. They do have all three.

 

[ArcaineGST]

Ok, I see what you mean. I was trying to enter the number when I was specifically searching under the 97 Mitsubishi Eclipse catalog, and nothing was coming up.