Help choosing a setup

[hidingfrogleap]

Hi guys,

Ok so this may be hoping for a little much but here goes:

To start my hp goals are about 350-400 whp and as you can see, I live in southern CA. And every 2 years out here they require you to get a smog check at one of those check only places which includes a visual inspection. To cut to the chase, basicly I want to get to my hp goals with little to no swapping back and forth of the stock parts when comes time for the smog checks. Part of this is that the apartment I'm going to move into next month has little room for car parts sitting around. So I figured that I'd ask now since I haven't done too much yet and, before I get to really buying parts, get some input about a possible setup that, with some work, could pass for close to stock. Also, something I could tune down (when I get the money to get DSMlink) to the point where it'd pass emissions, would be nice. Like I said earlier, I understand this is might be little far fetched but I'm just looking for the best setup for what I need. It is my daily driver so I would need it to pass but, I didn't get a turbo DSM to leave it stock. Thanks in advance.

 

[DGajre777]

For 350-400WHP, you'll want a 50trim or bigger turbo withe fuel mods, FMIC and other stuff in the tuning guide. If you want fast spool up get a ball bearing turbo.

As for smog check, you can get a downpipe and cat sold by RRE www.roadraceengineering.com.

 

[hidingfrogleap]

Thanks DGajre777. So, as for keeping it low key with that HP goal, pretty much impossible? Like, I know John Huh's 99' Spyder from road race puts out about ~400whp and yet he still uses it as his daily driver in San Diego so I was wondering how that all works because he'd have to pass emissions laws here in CA just like me, which is what got me thinking about this in the first place.

But really, I'd just really like to avoid swapping parts off and on every 2 years to pass smog and the visual but would still like to make as much power as possible even if it doesn't get up to my original goals thats fine so any suggestions to that effect would be great.

 

[DGajre777]

Slowboy racing has a 20G stuffed in an 16G compressor housing, it is called the Bastard 20G.

If you want the turbo to look stock on the 2G, look at the Big T28 sold at www.forcedperformance.net or slowboy racing.

 

[hidingfrogleap]

Do you think the bastard 20g would be terribly noticable? Because I was originally thinking of going with a 16g anyways, and if the 16g housing wouldn't be obvious then i might just have to go with that, otherwise that T28 seems like a great option. I'm just worried that I'm going to be constantly switching parts in and out or giving out $200 hand shakes to every smog tech after i get really into modifying the car.

 

[DGajre777]

The bastard 20G will look like you put a 1G 14b turbo in a 2G. The Big T28 is good, but it is no where near your 350-400WHP goal. You'll need a lot more supporting mods with the 20G compared to the T28.

 

[hidingfrogleap]

Ok, then I think I'll go ahead and go with the 16g housing whether it's the bastard 20g or the evo316g. Since I think I could get away with that and get closer to my goals. Thanks so much for you help.

 

[DGajre777]

You are welcome. Remember that you have to tailor your fuel mods to the turbo you get. To max out a 16G you'll need 550cc with a 190 pump, to max out an evo III you'll need 660cc injectors and a 190 pump and with the 20G to max it out you'll need 660cc with a 255pump and AFPR. All these assume you are on your 2G motor with stock internals. It is not just fuel, while you can get away with a bigger sidemount with a 16G, you'll need an FMIC for the 20G. www.extremeintercoolers.com has FMICs that I like.