PLEASE HELP Auto trans failure

[jmdst28]

Recently installed a koyo rad, STM trans cooler and forced four plus shift box on my 96' spyder gst auto. Today while driving the car started to buck severely while deaccelerating and will not accelerate after beginning to move again until it cools for a bit. But even after cooling down the problem will arise shortly after. It would just rev and go nowhere. Pulled off the road and checked the trans fluid, its still red but does smell burnt. Also noticed smoke coming from the trans dipstick. No CEL is on with ecmlink v3. I2hrs from home i had to have it towed. Would the installation of the trans cooler possibly killed my trans? Any information that anyone could provide me would be awesome. I have browsed through other posts but none that match this description.

 

[donniekak]

When you installed the cooler did you add fluid to the trans to make up for the fluid that wouldn't be in the trans, but the cooler instead? What is the fluid level now, when you check it?

 

[jmdst28]

I didnt do the job, a very well respected shop did the install when i had it in for fp red upgrade so i would assume they took the necessary steps to ensure proper drivability. There is trans fluid on the dipstick but tough to say the level at which it is at. As i stated the fluid is still red but smells burnt.

 

[donniekak]

Do you have a shift kit installed in the trans? The combination of old clutches, and stock line pressure may have not held up to the red.

 

[jmdst28]

I have the forced four shift box but i was not using it at the time this happened i was using normal tcu control. The shift box has a switch to turn it on and off for full line pressure

I drove the car 2+ hours to a show with no issues. Went to leave the show today and boom

 

[craig4g63]

If the trans cooler is somehow plugged and not letting fluid to flow, the transmission oil would definitely overheat over a long journey. This could have burned up your front clutches.

 

[jmdst28]

Inly reason i dont think its clogged is because i drove the two hours on friday sometimes pretty aggressively, i feel like it would have happened during the drive and not after sitting all night and all day at the show. Forgot to mention it will not even go into reverse just revs

 

[Phantom DSM]

Inly reason i dont think its clogged is because i drove the two hours on friday sometimes pretty aggressively, i feel like it would have happened during the drive and not after sitting all night and all day at the show. Forgot to mention it will not even go into reverse just revs

Check for proper fluid level first to start. If you can drive around until the car is heated up to operating temp, then park it on level surface and leave motor running. Cycle the gear shifter from P down to 1 pausing for a sec on each and back up to Neutral and let it idle for a min. Pull dipstick and it should hit the HOT mark..if its not , you might have to compensate for cooler addition or lost fluid.
Also other than wot for full line pressure shifts, are you using full line pressure for cruising? its very aggressive, especially on decel

 

[jmdst28]

Check for proper fluid level first to start. If you can drive around until the car is heated up to operating temp, then park it on level surface and leave motor running. Cycle the gear shifter from P down to 1 pausing for a sec on each and back up to Neutral and let it idle for a min. Pull dipstick and it should hit the HOT mark..if its not , you might have to compensate for cooler addition or lost fluid.
Also other than wot for full line pressure shifts, are you using full line pressure for cruising? its very aggressive, especially on decel

I will try and drive it tomorrow but chances are its not going to move or move much. I have only had the parts on for less than a week and only used the shift box 1 time just to try it out. I did not use it all all while cruising, i did turn it on and tried to shift with it while the problem was occurring to see if it would try and help a little to limp back to the hotel but it didnt work. I was warned prior to not downshift it until rpms are very low or completely stopped.

 

[donniekak]

I have the forced four shift box but i was not using it at the time this happened i was using normal tcu control. The shift box has a switch to turn it on and off for full line pressure

I drove the car 2+ hours to a show with no issues. Went to leave the show today and boom

The shift box makes the trans shift at full line pressure, a shift kit inside the valve body physically makes line pressure higher. They work great together. Running a nice sized turbo like a red, and letting the tcu slip the heck out of the clutches will burn them up fast.

 

[craig4g63]

Also other than wot for full line pressure shifts, are you using full line pressure for cruising? its very aggressive, especially on decel

I don't downshift unless required for a corner. I do all the downshifting at the stoplight.....similar to coasting with the clutch disengaged in a motorcycle and downshifting to first once stopped.

 

[Dueydog]

Paying a respectable shop usually means a higher price and warranty, if only for shop reputation. I would not touch it and take it straight back to them before more damage is done. Good luck

 

[black97spyder]

My 2g did something similar... check your TPS and make sure its plugged in all the way. Mine wiggled loose a little bit and created all sorts of issues like you were describing. Plugged it back in and everything worked great!

If that doesnt work though let us know and we can help diagnose from there

 

[jmdst28]

My 2g did something similar... check your TPS and make sure its plugged in all the way. Mine wiggled loose a little bit and created all sorts of issues like you were describing. Plugged it back in and everything worked great!

If that doesnt work though let us know and we can help diagnose from there

i checked the tps sensor but it was secure so i guess i just burned up the clutches in the trans. I guess its time for a built IPT trans and call it a day