Over Reved the engine now won't run

[gorf]

I just replaced my t25 with a 14b. I left it on the Boost control selonoid because I wanted to see the difference. The 14b would not build boost over 10 lb, the t25 would pull 14 lbs. I redid my LICP and fixed a boost leak. Took it out for ride and was watching the boost gauge instead of the tach and jumped on 1st and over reved the engine - maybe 8k. The ecu shut the engine down when it came back I could not get over 1500 rpm, anything over that and it sounded like I was running on two cylinders - no smoke, oil etc.

I pulled the plugs they looked like the engine was running rich but there were no particles on them.
Pulled the top cover of the timing belt, the belt felt loose to - thought I had skipped timing so pulled the covers off to look at timing belt. All the timing marks were still lined up. I know I have compression, the spark plug caps pop off when I turn the engine over - but I don't have a compresion gauge, so don't what the numbers are.

Suggestion????
Does the ECU have a "cripple mode" that can be reset??

 

[4BangR-x]

I know this doesnt help much, but Ive done that on more than one occasion. I never had any problem like the one you described.

 

[gorf]

Ya I've done it before and the ecu just shut down the engine and it came back normal, thats why I thought I blew something. But from my checks - nothing obvious????

any sugestions welcome....

 

[95-talontsi]

boost leak...

 

[AVC-R]

Check and see if you had a charge pipe blow off. And check all the clamps to make sure they're tight

 

[gorf]

When I replaced the t25 with 14b, I had a J pipe and needed to come up with the rest of a hard lower IC pipe. I used reinforced hose from NAPA that is similar to the stock flex pipe, to connect between the J pipe and an 90 degree elbow that I bought from JC Whitney. All pipes were double clamped. I bought a gasket for the J pipe from the dealer and sealed it in with a light coat of red form-a-gasket.

After I had the problem, I looked at, but did not inspect, the the pipes from the turbo to the intake - did not see anything obvious. As bad as it was running you think it would take a hose being blown off - did not see that.

 

[FlumpDSM]

I also say boost leak. A big one. Do a leak test.

 

[gorf]

OK - that's three for Boost leak!

I will check it tonight and let you know what I find.

Thanks
John

 

[gorf]

"I also say boost leak. A big one. Do a leak test."

Thanks Guys yall were right - boost leak! I have a Dave Brode UICP, it has about 3/4 inch between BOV and the end of the pipe befor it connects to the stock flex pipe. I had tightened the clamp on the lip instead of behind the lip on the pipe. At first glance you could not tell it was off, but when I grabbed the pipe - it was loose.


Next question - I have posted this in the newbie forum but no responces.

What do I have to remove to replace camshaft oil seals?

Timing belt
Valve cover
sprocket - how hard is this to pull?
Do I have to remove camshaft or will the seal come out with journals still tight?

What about front main?
How do you pull the sprocket on a 2g 2.0 turbo? My Chiltons does not say......

 

[BISHILVR]

I like that "cripple mode" sounds like most of the idiots that I work with.