over heating losing coolant

[supersmasher]

got a 93 talon i just had to redue the head gasket. now the car over heats in 20 min if driving.thought it was a clog so i flushed the system and nothing. changed to a 75/25 mixture and still over heats.. when i go and sheck the coolent there is non there in the line. not seen anything external so i was thinking a crack some were. the oil has no change in color. so not sure what to look at first??

could get some help would appreciate it thanks..

 

[quayzar590awd]

Did you have the surfaces checked for True or level? Did you torque you head studs correctly to the correct lbs in the correct order? What kind of head gasket was it? Did you check the main off the water pump? have you let the car run and physically looked for leaks or steam yet? Try this first start the car and pour coolant in while its running you may have had a pocket of air that made all the coolant piss out when it got warm.

 

[ToughTalon]

Quayzar is on the right path of what I was thinking. It could be somthing as simple as an air pocket in the cooling system. Whenever you drain the coolant and you re-fill the system you have to 'burp' the air out of the system. I have a special funnel that attaches to the thermostat housing and it allows me to pour more coolant than I need and run the car when re-filling all the coolant.

Basicly when the car is warming up the upper radiator hose will be cold, when the engine gets warm enough the thermostat will open allowing the water pump to circulate coolant through the radiator. The funnel I described will hold coolant when the engine is warming up and when the thermostat finally opens is allows me to pour coolant in until air pckets are gone.

Im kind of getting off topic here, what you should do first is make sure you have coolant all the way to the radiator cap. leave the cap off and let the car idle. When the car gets warm enough the thermostat will open and it will 'suck' all the coolant down (and sometimes it will 'burp' all over too), at this point keep adding coolant untill coolant is up to the radiator cap again and verify the upper radiator hose is real hot, that way you know the thermostat is open and coolant is flowing..... Try that or at least run the car and see if the upper radiator hose is hot and you have coolant in the degas bottle and let us know what you find....

 

[asrdave]

definitely sounds like an air pocket, best way i have remedied an air pocket is running it to a lil over running temp and slowly letting the wait out through the pressurized cap, there are other ways to do it tho this is just one

 

[supersmasher]

ok thanks for the help. i havnt had the head checked for level. i got the torque to proper spec and secuence. it was a cheeper gasket (fel pro). no i havent looked at the main off of the water pump. yes there is no visual leaks that i have found.

i am going to blead the system again and see what happens.. thanks again for the help.

 

[Demon33]

Also, try turning on the heater to full hot with the fan on high. This will allow the coolant to circulate through the heater core and purge any air trapped in there.

Is your upper radiator hose rock hard after the engine has warmed up? If so, you could have air trapped in your system.

Good luck.

 

[gieri002]

Replace the radiator cap if you haven't already, it might be something simple like that!

 

[quayzar590awd]

definitely sounds like an air pocket, best way i have remedied an air pocket is running it to a lil over running temp and slowly letting the wait out through the pressurized cap, there are other ways to do it tho this is just one

DONT EVER EVER EVER EVER DO THAT, you can get second and third degree burns INSTANTLY. Please do not ever tell people to do that. I am not trying to harp on you but trying to save you some pain and suffering.

 

[ToughTalon]

DONT EVER EVER EVER EVER DO THAT, you can get second and third degree burns INSTANTLY. Please do not ever tell people to do that. I am not trying to harp on you but trying to save you some pain and suffering.

Yea you can boil or really get some pressure cranked up in the cooling system and it will bubble and shoot all over the place and burn the crap out of you. Only do that if you know exactly what you are doing and use a couple rags to save yourself.

A semi-safer method of doing that is starting with a COLD engine and putting a peice of wire (carefully) under the cap so you can install the rad cap and keep a small air passage under the cap, once you warm up the car it will help purge air...sometimes. Again if you dont know what I am talking about with that method, simply dont do it. It can and will be dangerous.

 

[supersmasher]

ok tryed bleeding the system seems like its taking a lot of coolent have put over 7liters of fluied in. seems like it wants more.

 

[quayzar590awd]

Keep feeding her if she wants it.

 

[GrnZ]

Make sure you have no leaks anywhere, lines to turbo,heater core,etc. If youre loosing coolant and you have no leaks, its either burning it or mix with your oil. Or it can be as simple as an air pocket like everyone else said. Check to make SURE you have NO leaks then go from there.

 

[supersmasher]

i started it today and it just blew white smoke so i know its burning it.. so now i should take it appart again and see if there is a crack that i missed, or its just a bad headgasket

thanks for all the tips

 

[illeffekt vr-4]

Why did you have to change the headgasket in the first place?

 

[supersmasher]

it blew in the upper right hand corner just above cylender one. the car got shut off as soon as it happened. i knew what happened and didnt want to damage anything

 

[illeffekt vr-4]

The problem with these cars is that the stock temp gauge sometimes reacts way too slow. By the time you actually see the needle moving the damage is already done. My slim fans on my galant stopped working and even though I noticed the tepm gauge go up right away my head and block were warped. Take everything apart again and make sure the block/head are straight so you don't have to do it the 3rd time.

 

[quayzar590awd]

AS i said in my very first post.

 

[Rob10_99]

The problem with these cars is that the stock temp gauge sometimes reacts way too slow. By the time you actually see the needle moving the damage is already done.

Yep, that's what popped my motor on the freeway just cruising at 70....

 

[justin90gsx]

my coolant was boiling out the reservoir and and burn it, i would loose all of it in about 20 min, all because my head bolts on the exhaust side stretched and warped my head
so i did a full build on the motor w/ 272's, ss valves, springs, retainers, guides, 3g lifters, full gasket set, cometic gasket and arp's throughout, race bearings, 1g/2g piston and rod combo for daily use! and now im putting my hx35 soon!

but i would get a better head gasket, at least a oem or a mls w/ arp's

 

[DSMunknown]

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/65000-65999/65053.pdf


If the links change the item code is 65053-1VGA, or just search for something like "radiator test kit".

 

[supersmasher]

ok so i took it appart again and took the head and gasket into a shop. the guy there wsa saying that i was detionation caused from over boost pressure/ not enough octane levels. i run premium fuel.. so what would cauce me to be pushing to much boost from a stock turbo?? what would i do to turn the boost pressure down??

 

[rocafellafw]

Much much boost are you running ? Do you even have a boost controller ?

 

[supersmasher]

no i dont have a boost controler my aftermarket boost gauge was showing about 10-15psi