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Other mods to do while doing Timing Belt/WP?

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dlh1999

15+ Year Contributor
95
1
Mar 18, 2005
Corvallis, Oregon
Hey all,

I searched without much luck. I'll be changing my timing belt & water pump soon...would this be a good time to do other mods (ie. made easier by already working on tb/wp)? I've got a 2g N/T, and don't have immediate plans of a turbo...any ideas? Also, what kind of pricing should I expect from some of those mods? Thanks for any help...
 
I should mention that I have only basic bolt-ons right now...I/H/E.
 
If you are changing the timing belt also change your waterpump, timing belt tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley.
 
Yeah, underdrive pulleys sound about right. If your doing your timing belt, cam gears would be a good time to do them now but they are a little pricey. You could advance em now, or retard them later for turbo or nitrous.

Make sure you get all your other belts replaced, and after a week or so you should check for any squealing and if so, check the bolts on them.
 
Thanks for the replies...I've read up on UDPs and cam gears, but haven't come to a clear conclusion about either one of them. Has anyone seen any noticeable differences with these mods on a N/T car with few mods?
 
dlh1999 said:
Thanks for the replies...I've read up on UDPs and cam gears, but haven't come to a clear conclusion about either one of them. Has anyone seen any noticeable differences with these mods on a N/T car with few mods?
People have seen gains with them, and I suspect the more built up your engine is, the more the gains realized from installing them, but I think it's safe to say I have one of the most completely built all motor 2GNTs in the country right now, and I still don't have gears. :shrug I bought them, but the guy sort of bailed on me last month. That sucka...

So I think it's more a question of do you really want them.
 
Cam gears allow you to bring the torque curve to a lower or higher rpm, depending on what theyou want it to do. It doesn't make the torque or performance greater, it just tailors it to the desired application. More performance would require a different camshaft.
But on most dynos ive seen it usually adds some Hit points :talon:

Worst that could happen You can go too far, and risk a valve opening too close to an advancing piston (bent valves and damages pistons :nono:
 
truECLIPSE said:
If you are changing the timing belt also change your waterpump, timing belt tensioner, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley.

Do you have any idea how much a timing tensioner is? $400 from the dealer. Rediculous!

I suggest you replace your UDP. If you want, it is a good time to get cams too. My buddy had the Crane 0016 in his 2gNT and they really made a differance. Good luck with your timing belt. Don't let anyone tell you its hard. Just make sure your timing marks are all aligned up, and your good to go.
 
dr1665 said:
People have seen gains with them, and I suspect the more built up your engine is, the more the gains realized from installing them, but I think it's safe to say I have one of the most completely built all motor 2GNTs in the country right now, and I still don't have gears. :shrug I bought them, but the guy sort of bailed on me last month. That sucka...

So I think it's more a question of do you really want them.

Brian, you have a completely built engine with aggressive cams and no cam gears? if your diggin for every possible NA pony, that would probably be a good thing to get.

maybe you want to replace the HG too while the timing belt is off?
 
well so far we've taken the udp off, cams out, now the HG... shoot. Just pull the whole motor out and replace everything! :thumb:

Replacing the HG would be a great idea, but remember your not supposed to reuse your stock head bolts.
 
well my experience with installing the OBX UDP on my car wasnt hard at all. it would be a little easier with the stuff out of the way, but as long as the plastic splash guard on the bottom of the engine isnt in place you should not have a problem putting it on (you shouldnt have a prob anyway). and leave it off afterwards too, then youll be able to show off your pulley. but be careful where you drive...belts like to get flung off when rocks, mowed grass, etc get stuck along the pulley system.

UDP install was fairly easy under normal circumstances, but if you have the money for it now then go for it.

later
 
I have the OBX Intake manifold. Its really nice..... after I had to weld the pre-tapped holes that are all the wrong size in the back closed, drill and tap my own holes on the underside of the plenum so I could clear the firewall, and spend about an hour trying to jam the fuel injectors into the injector bungs......... other than that it rocked!
 
SnoopySLR said:
I have the OBX Intake manifold. Its really nice..... after I had to weld the pre-tapped holes that are all the wrong size in the back closed, drill and tap my own holes on the underside of the plenum so I could clear the firewall, and spend about an hour trying to jam the fuel injectors into the injector bungs......... other than that it rocked!
ROFL
 
SnoopySLR said:
I have the OBX Intake manifold. Its really nice..... after I had to weld the pre-tapped holes that are all the wrong size in the back closed, drill and tap my own holes on the underside of the plenum so I could clear the firewall, and spend about an hour trying to jam the fuel injectors into the injector bungs......... other than that it rocked!

Well no offesne, but OBX copied the Venom intake manifold. And those aren't one of the quality ones I was talking about. (the modification you had to do it says it all) Glad to see you made it work and are happy with the results though.
 
BigRand said:
Well no offesne, but OBX copied the Venom intake manifold. And those aren't one of the quality ones I was talking about. (the modification you had to do it says it all) Glad to see you made it work and are happy with the results though.

what quality ones are you talking about, im not aware of any others made for us? does someone else make one for us?
 
GSGoinFast said:
what quality ones are you talking about, im not aware of any others made for us? does someone else make one for us?

Well as for intake manifolds none. Were better off porting our own.

I thought I remembered reading a thread about OBX's down pipe being the exact same as a Apexi downpipe.
Also I heard something about their exhuast system being a replica of the greddy evo 2.
I"m not sure if those instances are correct, but I guess what I meant is that, their products can be a decent copy if they copied the right manufacture.
Venom not being one of them.
 
BigRand said:
Well as for intake manifolds none. Were better off porting our own.

I thought I remembered reading a thread about OBX's down pipe being the exact same as a Apexi downpipe.
Also I heard something about their exhuast system being a replica of the greddy evo 2.
I"m not sure if those instances are correct, but I guess what I meant is that, their products can be a decent copy if they copied the right manufacture.
Venom not being one of them.

ya obx products can for sure be nice... there cam gears are AEM, although im not sure if those are any good. but there header was greddy and it was real nice
 
SnoopySLR said:
well so far we've taken the udp off, cams out, now the HG... shoot. Just pull the whole motor out and replace everything! :thumb:

Replacing the HG would be a great idea, but remember your not supposed to reuse your stock head bolts.


Can someone please explain why we are not supposed to reuse the stock head bolts on a NT car? I never heard this before (it was not in the manual) and have reused mine after the last headgasket replacement I did. I have put @ 15k miles on the car sice I reused them and have noticed no problems as yet... Just curious about this? :confused:
 
when you torque your headbolts down they stretch. When you reinstall them, they stretch more, causing them to be weaker. I reused mine the first time I rebuilt my head, I didn't notice any problems, but thats not saying they weren't going to break soon. The joy of ARP head studs is they don't stretch. So besides being about 4x stonger than the stock bolts, you can reuse them infinatly.
 
Thanks for the advice, I had no idea that our cars used the 'stretch to yeild' bolts.
I bet those ARP's are pricey, I guess I better start saving! :dsm:
 
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