insanewayne
15+ Year Contributor
- 317
- 1
- May 18, 2004
-
Ladysmith,
Here's the story
Driving down the road, had been driving for 25 mins headin to my g/f's an hour away.
All of a sudden my car starts shaking, alot. I had just replaced my passenger side axle that day, replaced the boot, cleaned, and repacked the driver's side CV joint the day before that, so I thought something ####ed up. First thing I do is glance at my oil pressure, It's in the middle of the LOW section on the gauge. So I pull over. Right before I turned the car off I noticed the idle was real real lumpy...like a V8 and rough.
So I walk half an hour each way to get oil, dump in 3 litres, let it drip down (I was thinking definate bearing damage at the time) and fire her up. Nothing changed. Shit. So I do the plug test, # 2 cylinder isn't firing. Shit. So I try to start driving her back home, now i don't know quite how to explain this, but i'll try. Under "load" the car shook violently. So like unless I slipped the clutch out like hell in first the engine ran like ass and shook and just horrilbe.
Once I got going, if i gave the car anything more then 10% throttle, it did the shaking, Uphill it was ever worse. I know I shouldn't have driven it home, but I couldn't afford the tow bill, and didn't have much of a choice. And in between 2500-3000 rpm it ran pretty good
.
Compression test showed 0 compression in the #2 cylinder. Stayed the same on the wet test.
So I pull the head a week later. (today)
While pulling the head, I'm telling my buddy helpin me out how it's common for service repairmen to change t-belts without changing the BS belt and how stupid that is cuz they can break, get tangled in the T-belt, and bend your valves. So you should always do them at the same time. Mine was done 20,000km's before I bought the car.(foreshadowning
)
After struggling with the lower timing belt cover for an hour (one of the bolts wouldn't come all the way out, so I finally just tore the damn cover off ) I remove the T-belt, And then have a look around at the one bolt that wouldn't come out, AND WHAT DO I FIND, yeh, Broken Balance Shaft Belt hanging there. I'll post a pic of it in the next few days, But one side of it was compacted and squished together...like bent but where it bent it was like squished and shit (in two spots) , so it got jammed in something.
Anyways, Get the head off and find a hole in an exhaust valve. so thats that.
Here's my questions. Yes I searched, but coulnd't find anything relative to my situation.
What caused this horrible shaking and loss of torque. Could my blance shaft belt have jammed and caused the timing belt to skip a tooth, And the timing being off is causing this shaking combined with the running on 3 cylinders of course
.
Is it possible that I could have been driving around on 3 cylinders for awhile and not known it? Or is this something I would have definately noticed. The car has pulled pretty good since I've had it.
The car ran low on oil for a lil while...Is it possible that I could have bottom end damage....And that's why the engine shakes and shit, or is it more likely that the broken BS belt/valve/timing and the bottom ends fine?
On a slightly different subject...when I was undoing the head studs, I asked my teacher, wtf are these round headed studs, he goes " Oh there torqx (sp) , go grab one". So i grab one, and it fit pretty snug, crank on her, and she slips (oviously) so i'm like #### this and look in up on here to find it's a 10 mm allan. So I goto put it back in the first head stud to be removed in the sequence, and it wont fit. I goto my teach and say, it's not a torqx, and the studs ####ed now. He looks at it, tests the allan socket on the middle stud, and it fits.
Them I'm like " Don't undo that one you have to undo it in sequence" as I hold the sheet in his face, and he goes that's for installation, and starts crankin it off, I said No it's not it's for removal. By this time he's onto the one above it. He stops, Im like, sweet so my heads going to be warped now. He's like yeh well it will have to be resurfaced anyways, just go back to the normal sequence, so I start at the edges and work my way into the middle ones that are already undone. He told me that alluminum heads always have to be resurfaced when then get removed and put back on. I could see that,but will resurfacing cut it here, or is it going to be warped to hell and have to get shaved. What will be the result of his actions and not listening to me. I'm thinkin of asking him to pay for the machining on the heads surface....
Anyways, if anyone has any insight to what happened to my baby, lemme know, and I apologize for the extremely long post, if you got this far, thanks.
Thanks
Wayne
Driving down the road, had been driving for 25 mins headin to my g/f's an hour away.
All of a sudden my car starts shaking, alot. I had just replaced my passenger side axle that day, replaced the boot, cleaned, and repacked the driver's side CV joint the day before that, so I thought something ####ed up. First thing I do is glance at my oil pressure, It's in the middle of the LOW section on the gauge. So I pull over. Right before I turned the car off I noticed the idle was real real lumpy...like a V8 and rough.
So I walk half an hour each way to get oil, dump in 3 litres, let it drip down (I was thinking definate bearing damage at the time) and fire her up. Nothing changed. Shit. So I do the plug test, # 2 cylinder isn't firing. Shit. So I try to start driving her back home, now i don't know quite how to explain this, but i'll try. Under "load" the car shook violently. So like unless I slipped the clutch out like hell in first the engine ran like ass and shook and just horrilbe.
Once I got going, if i gave the car anything more then 10% throttle, it did the shaking, Uphill it was ever worse. I know I shouldn't have driven it home, but I couldn't afford the tow bill, and didn't have much of a choice. And in between 2500-3000 rpm it ran pretty good
.Compression test showed 0 compression in the #2 cylinder. Stayed the same on the wet test.
So I pull the head a week later. (today)
While pulling the head, I'm telling my buddy helpin me out how it's common for service repairmen to change t-belts without changing the BS belt and how stupid that is cuz they can break, get tangled in the T-belt, and bend your valves. So you should always do them at the same time. Mine was done 20,000km's before I bought the car.(foreshadowning
)After struggling with the lower timing belt cover for an hour (one of the bolts wouldn't come all the way out, so I finally just tore the damn cover off ) I remove the T-belt, And then have a look around at the one bolt that wouldn't come out, AND WHAT DO I FIND, yeh, Broken Balance Shaft Belt hanging there. I'll post a pic of it in the next few days, But one side of it was compacted and squished together...like bent but where it bent it was like squished and shit (in two spots) , so it got jammed in something.
Anyways, Get the head off and find a hole in an exhaust valve. so thats that.
Here's my questions. Yes I searched, but coulnd't find anything relative to my situation.
What caused this horrible shaking and loss of torque. Could my blance shaft belt have jammed and caused the timing belt to skip a tooth, And the timing being off is causing this shaking combined with the running on 3 cylinders of course
.Is it possible that I could have been driving around on 3 cylinders for awhile and not known it? Or is this something I would have definately noticed. The car has pulled pretty good since I've had it.
The car ran low on oil for a lil while...Is it possible that I could have bottom end damage....And that's why the engine shakes and shit, or is it more likely that the broken BS belt/valve/timing and the bottom ends fine?
On a slightly different subject...when I was undoing the head studs, I asked my teacher, wtf are these round headed studs, he goes " Oh there torqx (sp) , go grab one". So i grab one, and it fit pretty snug, crank on her, and she slips (oviously) so i'm like #### this and look in up on here to find it's a 10 mm allan. So I goto put it back in the first head stud to be removed in the sequence, and it wont fit. I goto my teach and say, it's not a torqx, and the studs ####ed now. He looks at it, tests the allan socket on the middle stud, and it fits.
Them I'm like " Don't undo that one you have to undo it in sequence" as I hold the sheet in his face, and he goes that's for installation, and starts crankin it off, I said No it's not it's for removal. By this time he's onto the one above it. He stops, Im like, sweet so my heads going to be warped now. He's like yeh well it will have to be resurfaced anyways, just go back to the normal sequence, so I start at the edges and work my way into the middle ones that are already undone. He told me that alluminum heads always have to be resurfaced when then get removed and put back on. I could see that,but will resurfacing cut it here, or is it going to be warped to hell and have to get shaved. What will be the result of his actions and not listening to me. I'm thinkin of asking him to pay for the machining on the heads surface....
Anyways, if anyone has any insight to what happened to my baby, lemme know, and I apologize for the extremely long post, if you got this far, thanks.
Thanks
Wayne


.
. I know I do because I can smell gas in the oil. But, I'm not shitting you guys, the car pull pretty good if it only had 3 cylinders...So I don't think my rings are going, at least I hope not.