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Ok guys need help LETS SEE if you guys know your STUFF

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TheRealist

15+ Year Contributor
464
3
Dec 12, 2005
Chula Vista, California
Ok guys me and my dad are realy fustrated on getting my car started, well here's the proplem, we got my head rebuilt and put everything back on and connected everything.

Now the proplem is getting it to idle right, and engine moves when we start it. we bin at this for 3 weeks and still cant get it to run right.

Whats the idle soppose to be set at?? 750k? 750k below the 1rpm??

Could it be that my baterie is low?? we started it with jumper cables


Here are some videos


Start up and dies out: http://youtube.com/watch?v=arhVzR6cgyA <--also look at engine move on start up why does it do that?


Start UP: http://youtube.com/watch?v=gxxo6zlwUGQ


Before it would idle fine without dying out at 1500 but thats way to high

Cmon guys lets see if yah can help me out here
 
I kinda scimmed through the post but did you drive the car to let it learn how to idle again? I know most cars learn at 45mph for 5 miles the fastest. If your battery was low enough for your computer to go brain dead anyway.
 
SlowChild3 said:
I kinda scimmed through the post but did you drive the car to let it learn how to idle again? I know most cars learn at 45mph for 5 miles the fastest. If your battery was low enough for your computer to go brain dead anyway.
ROFL A car in a colma? ROFL
 
how long have you had this problem for?
i had the same problem but my car wont even start up
the damm engine is ceased >_<
but have u got it fixed?
 
OK GUys #### mechanics, there charging way to much, so i decided to buy a new batery tommorow, and Champion spark plugs, becuase that what we were using when my car did run good, so i hope that works, also on the camshafts aligned mint, should it be level with the head or be a little above it when we lign them up?
 
Also on top of the intake manifold there is a little whole were you can twist a screw it looks like what is that???
 
I bet that it's a boost leak!! I had a boost leak that I couldn't even see at all! Then did a test and it was HUGE! My car would run for a little bit, really rough, then die because the engine wasn't getting the amount of air that the MAS was reading but it was still dumping all that fuel in but not the air!

The biss screw controls the idle, hope that helps!

Brian
 
1 more thing i didnt mention bcuase i didnt think it was a proplem but hey here's a shot, when we rebuilt the head, we took out the lifters but we mixed them up, also we put them back in randomly since we didnt lable them, could that be the proplem?
 
I checked the Haynes Manual and Vfaq and they didn't say anything about a particular order but the lifters you had and then reinstalled could have been bad?!!? But do that boost leak I talked to you about, try with the easy things first, then if you have to work your way to the harder stuff! You just need to find out what you you are missing its air, fuel, or spark! If you find out what you are missing then you can eliminate the problems one by one, like if your missing spark test the pluggs, plugg wires, coil pack battery terminals etc... As for your oil pressure check and see if if the little black sensor just off the oil filter housing is plugged in all the way, its kinda sensative!:rocks:
 
Please please please do NOT use champion plugs...they are horriable. Id never use them, even on my lawn mower! pick up som NGKs if u can or at least some Boschs but NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER use champions they are JUNK!
 
TheRealist said:
1 more thing i didnt mention bcuase i didnt think it was a proplem but hey here's a shot, when we rebuilt the head, we took out the lifters but we mixed them up, also we put them back in randomly since we didnt lable them, could that be the proplem?

Nope, I did the same thing during my head rebuild.

As far as the car still not starting, I'm betting that it's something somewhat simple. In the video, nothing sounded bad when the car started up, till it died of course, but what I'm trying to say is that, so much has to be going right just for the car to start up, and then it idles and sounds good for a short bit. I really doubt that it's something crazy, but I could be wrong, I'm really just talking from past experience. Also, just changing out the spark plugs, it's not gonna help anything unless the ones you have in are absolute decroded pieces of crap. Stick with the NGks also.
 
Like the godfathers said before, check vacuum leaks, do a boost leak test, make sure all clamps are tight. Try even taking off some and reattaching them to be safe. Check spark plugs and go for anything NGK. BPR7ES or the 6's. I am running Iridium 9's right now just to see how they do. The 7's are for high temps so they are good on these high temp mitsubishi motors. Check the wires too. When I changed them out I didnt tighten them to 18inch pounds and found out why you need to torque by the book. I kept on popping the wire off. Tightened and worked great. Also go with a company that is known for good wires. MSD's are alright except they hit the head and seem to melt. I gave those to my friend. I just bought Magnacores and they are good. Alright I caught myself rambling. Check all of these and tell us what is up
 
TheRealist said:
The balance shaft has to be alligned? thats that little belt correct?? we didnt even touch that one we just left it on but we did align everything thats soppose to be alligned on the bottom , but we did change the timeing belt....

This immediately jumped out and I have to comment, sorry if someone beat me to it, but.....

I wouldn't remove the head without changing the timing belt, unless it only had limited mileage, which you did. I WOULD NEVER CHANGE THE TIMING BELT WITHOUT ALSO CHANGING THE BALANCE BELT. If it goes, it will more than likely take out the timing belt also, trashing your head. The only way I wouldn't change the balance belt is if it was eliminated, which yours is not.

Also, another reason for the vibration could be that you actually have 2 balance shafts, the one that is driven by the small belt, and one behind the oil pump sprocket. There is a specific procedure for "phasing" the "oil sprocket" balance shaft under the VFAQ.
 
Have you read over the timing belt job on the VFAQ? If not read and re-read that since it sounds to me like you are a little confused about the timing alingment. You said you can keep the car running if it idles at 1200. Is it idleing at 1200 when its in operating temp or just when the motor is cold?
 
Sivad87 said:
you know what, did you ever test your coil packs?
Yea and they were bad so we replaced them with new ones, also guys guess what

I GOT MY CAR STARTED, IT WAS THE CAS!

I BOUGHT THE MITSUBISHI T-BELT AND BALANCE SHAFT BELT AS WELL.
 
TheRealist said:
Yea and they were bad so we replaced them with new ones, also guys guess what

I GOT MY CAR STARTED, IT WAS THE CAS!

I BOUGHT THE MITSUBISHI T-BELT AND BALANCE SHAFT BELT AS WELL.
nice work. One question though, what is the cas?
 
thx guys for all the help at the end it was the CAS that was out of allignment 180dagress ill post a vid on how my car's running in a sec
 
I know how you feel, i hated when my timing belt and crank shfat belt broke. I loved when I heard it pure when i was done, good job and good luck with future modS!!!
 
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