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oil pressure relief valve?

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staflo500

Probationary Member
18
0
May 15, 2002
ankeny, Iowa
my oil psi is way high(over 100psi) and i was told to check the pressure relief valve but i have no clue what it looks like or anything so someone please help
 
The only pressure relief valve I know of is located on the oil pump cover assembly. VERY close to the oil pressure sending unit. You'll probably have to actually take the sending unit off to be able to get a wrench onto the relief valve cap (The cap is pretty big- like 22mm or something like that)
 
not really off-topic but . . . I know of the relief valve on the oil filter bracket . . . is there also one on the head? If so, where and is it the same type as the one on the oil filter bracket?
 
There's one on the Oil Filter Bracket also caleed the Oil Filter Housing - I'm unaware of one on the Oil Pump Cover.

There's one on the Oil Filter Bracket also called the Oil Filter Housing - I'm unaware of one on the Oil Pump Cover.

Defiant said:
No other relief valve, just the one on the oil pump cover.
 
Yeah, I just confirmed this with my FSM and the local Mits. dealer . . . just the one relief valve on the oil filter bracket.

Another question if I may in this thread (since they're closely related . . .) I've been having the high oil pressure creep up on me for about a year now. I first noticed it about this time last year while driving across Utah. It shot up to the 'H' mark, stayed there for a while, then came back down to roughly horizontal. *Fast forward to present* Now while cruising around 3k (like most ppl with the same problem), the needle is pegged at 'H'. There are some weird circumstances where it will actually be horizontal (has been run less than 10 min & cool gusty cross-winds blowing from the passengerside to the driver side), but 95% of the time, it's pegged.

If I take the relief valve out again, and clean it . . . again, to no avail- is there something else inside that has perhaps slowly gotten clogged up? (with what I don't know) Would perhaps a "GUNK" engine flush help? (I've read on the back of their bottle that it's not recommended for turbo charged engines though . . .)

At this point I'm frustrated (like many others I'm sure) and it seems that all of the threads I come across with a similar problem never got resolved/updated/closed. So any other ideas aside from checking the bypass valve again?

-Thanks in advance
 
Changes in Ambient Temps, Engine Temps, Oil Filters, BSE Kits & Oil weights are gonna give everyone changes like these - Manual says BELOW the Low Mark is Normal at Hot Idle - Midway is Normal at Normal engine Speeds - & up to Hi Mark is OK - Many guys have posted peak Oil pressures over 100PSI with the proper Aftermarket Gauge.
 
i believe the original one has 2 holes drilled in to it. i have the same high oil pressure problem after a rebuild & not removing the balance shafts on my 1990 dsm.

i replaced the spring which turned out to be a few mm's longer than the original spring due to it's age. that didn't help. so i drilled 2 extra holes in the plunger & that didn't help.
so i tried a total of 6 holes on it, that didn't help either.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
So either there's blockage somewhere or these stock gauges just aren't worth $hit :rolleyes:

I even went as far as to buy a new sending unit and that didn't do a damned thing. . .
 
IMO those holes are just to keep the Piston floating - 10 holes in it wouldn't lower Oil Pressure IMO... A hole in the END of the Piston would sure as hell drop it! - as well as a new Spring - although I don't think any of you have a high Oil Pressure problem anyway...
 
So where exactly is the valve I want to check? I have a friends 90 talon turbo that is running way high oil pressure. Its blown the valve cover gasket and oil blowes out. Can I take it out clean it and replace the spring? thanks Tug
 
ive got a 90 turbo, and i have this same problem. i wouldnt really mind other thatn when its cold it blows oil around the turbo and smokes/leaks for about 5 minutes. but you always smell oil inside. thing is i rebuilt this about a year ago when i bought it cause it had a locked up turbo. i got another turbo and put on it when i got done rebuilding it. i had the turbo apart beforehand so i could check it out(ive rebuilt several turbos and motors in these before). there was nothing wrong with the turbo so to my surprise when i got it running it now leaks oil out. i think if it had the proper pressure it wouldnt force it out like this. i too have taken out the relief valve and couldnt find anything wrong with it. i would sure as hell like to find out what the answer is to this. i would say the turbo smoking would have to be from too much oil pressure. the seals can only take so much. by the way , the car runs and boosts excellent and has for over 15000 miles.
 
I know this thread is rather old, but after doing some research on external oil coolers, I cam across some info that may have helped my old motor and the high oil pressures it had:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145227&page=1&pp=25

In short, if the oil bypass passage in the oil filter housing is enlarged a bit, it may help to bring down the high oil pressures (essentially like porting out the wastegate in a turbine exhaust housing to get rid of boost creep)

Wish I had found this earlier so I could have tried it . . . :mad:
 
does it matter what type of filter housing it is? you can port the pressure relief port of the water cooler filter housings correct?
 
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