Oil change

[TimF]

Ok people before you blast me for posting this, i read through other threads about what oil to use, and it just seems like a arguement of what type of oil to use that are over 14 pages for a simple question.

I currently use penzoil platnium full synthetic. I forgot what viscosity and im not by my car now so I can not look, ill post that later. Just want to know if this is good for my car or is there a better oil solution for my next change.

 

[brandonwh64]

A full synthetic is a good choice to use so I don't see you going wrong with that brand. I just changed mine with penzoil 10w-30 High mileage for my N/T

 

[Shake_Zulla]

You either want to run a full synthetic or regular motor oil the semi-synthetic is a joke. They only are required to put something stupid like 30% synthetic in it and the non-synthetic degrades at the same rate as regular oil so 70% of your oil is toast at 3,000 miles. People will preach that synthetic is the best, others will say that regular motor oil is just as good, but really the most important thing is that you change your oil on your mileage schedule OR THE SUGGESTED DATE. Both factors are important because when you pour oil into your car it starts to degrade whether you drive it or not.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Like stated keep below the 3000 mile makrker before you change the oil and don't worry about it..As long as it's not supertech oil, you will be fine..

 

[HULK]

I would recommend the fully synthetic, and how the previous posters said, don't forget to change it every 3K.

 

[Reefman]

I have never noticed much difference with either synthetic or old school dino oil. I am more concerned with changing the oil at proper intervals than the type of oil being used. When the talon ran as a daily driver I used to switch sometimes between synthetic and conventional oil. Never noticed a difference then either. So I will agree with the other posts that changing the oil at the 3000 mile mark or at the 3 month mark would serve you best.

 

[TimF]

sounds good thats all I wanted to be sure with.

 

[DSM1G90]

It's all based on molecules. Dino oils have different sized molecules that wears down along with evaporating (did you know that oil does evaporate after time..?), why the recommended 3K/3Mo oil changes. Plus Dino oils aren't as slick as Synth oils (why you don't use synth oils for break-in .. you'll never get that motor broke in properly..) due to the many different sizes of molecules.

Synth oils have the same sized molecules that doesn't break down, thus keeps the lubrication factor in place, no matter how dirty it gets - why one can keep it in the crankcase longer. Plus, with the same sized molecules, it can tolerate heat better and wears longer (being more slicker) is why the turbo owners loves the synth stuff.

In all due actuality, synth oils were basically created for the operator who just doesn't want to spend the time to do the simple prevent maintenance - the more frequent oil changes ... and the same reason holds for sparkplugs ("WHY do we have all of these fancy sparkplugs, when basic plugs actually do the best..?) - make them harder so they can stay in the head longer and not to be fussed with.

It's a lazy, not caring society... - DSM

 

[my dreamt dsm]

Just curious on why people change synthetic every 3k miles. Royal Purple recommends up to 7k miles if I read it right.

 

[97gst_spyder]

I run Brad Penn 20-50, no issues. Under $5 a quart. High Zinc content too.

 

[volcomsnow245]

Royal purple synthetic!!

 

[TimF]

I will stick with pennzoil. Thats what I have always used, really never seen other oils like royal purple (probobly just never looked). I have not had anybad experiences with it, other then my valve cover leaks, but thats probobly not cause of the oil though. I was thinking of throwing in some lucas to my next change.

 

[DSM1G90]

AMSOIL does 25K/1yr changes.
Mobil1 does 15K/1year changes.

..but you still have the change the filter out every 5K miles, so might as well do the whole thing.

So why does a more expensive oil like RP has a less oil changing freqency...? Just to get you to buy their product - what it looks like to me...

I use Mobil1 10w/30, but that's just me-can't see paying for extra per quart for purple food coloring mixed in with regular synth oils.

I'll leave Brad Penn oils alone-that's for the heavy modified motors that needs that brand.

I have a friend who has a 1996 Saturn SL that has close to 300K miles on it. Still runs like a top, no burning oil ..and never used synth oils, but just used good ol Quaker State 10w/30 dino and 3 to 4k oil changes.... that's all what matters, is to DO your prevent maintainence no matter what motor you use.

 

[Bud92gsx]

My buddy has a saturn with the same milage..With less than updated oil changes, and she still runs like a top..

I wouldn't suggest it, but it happens more than you think..

 

[TimF]

I heard a Saturn's are really reliable even though there American

 

[DSM1G90]

(not to drift to a Saturn topic here..but here goes..)


Lol .. my friend doesn't like car payments ... and keeps a car as long as he's allowed to since he figures that he paid that much for it, by dang, he's gonna get his money's worth out of it.

..and I'm, along with my parents, are the same way: run it until it can't run anymore.

Shops that does other service work on that SL ask him if this is a rebuilt, swap, or something else. For they've never seen a motor last this long, esp in a Saturn SL.

We had a 2001 Saturn L100 sedan that was sweet and we got it used with only 35k miles on it. By 59k, it was showing that it was going to be a maintenace hog living in the shops (cooling system is poorly designed...). The thing drove sweet, but the design of the 2.2L motor was very poor in my book. The bottom end was bulletproof, but the drivetrain that ran the DOHC configuration was horribly weak - they use a single row bicycle (roller) chain and nylon tension sliders to keep the slack down to a minimum. You know how belt systems work with the tensioner rollers absorbing the "pulses" of the belt, but with a chain and sliders, it's not too effective where one pulse on the chain can actually get snapped real quick.

When that chain snaps ( and it can snap at 20k up to 60K or anywhere), it really busts up the motor and head real bad where you just replace the motor itself. So, it went "bye-bye" and we got a KIA with the Mits designed 4G64 block with the DOHC, silent chain arrangement.

 

[TimF]

you can throw a 4g63 in a Kia?

 

[DSM1G90]

Hyundai, at the beginning, used a lot of Mitsu parts - mainly motor and transmission. I've seen Mits G32B's (1.5L) in early Excels. The early Sonatas used a motor similar to the 4G64. But Hyundai and Kia now design and make their own motors, but one can see "Mitsubishi" in the design.

Our Kia uses a Mitsu tranny , the F4A34 (four speed manual/matic) type.

 

[raiderrodney]

I went through the same process of researching motor oil. In the end...keeping it at the proper level and regular changes is definitely the most important thing. But all my research led me to Amsoil

 

[HULK]

Hyundai, at the beginning, used a lot of Mitsu parts - mainly motor and transmission. I've seen Mits G32B's (1.5L) in early Excels. The early Sonatas used a motor similar to the 4G64. But Hyundai and Kia now design and make their own motors, but one can see "Mitsubishi" in the design.

Our Kia uses a Mitsu tranny , the F4A34 (four speed manual/matic) type.

I have a 04 Kia Spectra, and everytime I open the hood I remember the eclipse.

 

[Bud92gsx]

My moms hyndai has a 4g63 in it..

 

[DSM1G90]

..and their automatics also uses DIA fluids - which includes the SPII or ATF+4 fluids.

AMC did the same thing back in the early 70's: used a lot of Chrysler and some GM in their vehicles. Their V8's had Dodge design written all over them (the way the distributor was positioned on the blocks) while the ignition system was GM (the older dists with the "window" on the side to set the points with an allen wrench...) and all the way up to the key design.

Dang, dating myself here, aint I ? (..)

 

[dwdsm]

I run the cheapest full synthetic I can find. It's usually valvoline. I agree it doesn't matter if you just change it when it's supposed to be changed.

My mom has a + 200,000 mile saturn and from what some mechanics have told me they bought the motors for the s series 1's and 2's from toyota.

 

[TSIMonsteR]

For a turbo vehicle, you need something with some zinc in it. I recommend Valvoline VR1, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Brad Penn, Enos, etc.

For N/A, or economy applications, get the synthetic thats on sale.

 

[TimF]

What does zinc do?