odd clunking

[zalock]

I'm getting an odd clunking noise from the passenger side front wheel area when i let off the throttle. It happens every once in a while when i apply the brakes, but normally after i accelerate a little hard and let off. I do hear it everyonce in a while on regular bumps. The car is a 1997 GS. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Zac

 

[Catbox_95]

Could be a loose suspension bolt or a mis-aligned spring. Mine was doing the same thing (assuming this "clunk" sound is the same), and it turned out being 2 loose bolts, a shot bushing, and a turned spring.

Check out my mods. Under suspension, I have the most important mod of all - tightened all of the bolts that came loose or out for no reason.

Hope this helps...

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

My car recently made a clunking noise once and a while. Ending up being a wheel bearing going out. Easy way to check for that is to lift the front end off of the ground and put on hand on the top or the tire and one on the bottom and rock them back and forth. If it moves even the slightest bit your wheel bearing is going out. It's not to bad, about 42 bucks from a parts store but have to get it pressed in and out. Other than that I would check the tightness of everything and also check your CV axle's to make sure they are all greased up and not torn. They will tend to make noise as well.

 

[zalock]

thanks guys, when it warms up a little i'll take a look.
Zac

 

[zalock]

well i havn't got a chance to check it yet but now its doing something different also. about 75% of the time while just normally driving straight there is a persistant clunking sound comming from the same area. the rate is that of the speed at which im traveling(if i speed up it goes faster if i slow down it goes slower) but its always there when its there if you follow that . I have noticed that this will stop if i turn the wheel in either direction to make a turn. I also realized that this all started during a blizzard up here and am wondering if its possible ice related. Any help is always greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Zac

 

[Spidey]

From that description it sounds like your tie rod ends, that's what it was with my car anyway.

 

[zalock]

ok, if it is the tie rod ends how much am i looking at for fixing? How hard are they to replace?
Zac

 

[rowlex]

ok, if it is the tie rod ends how much am i looking at for fixing? How hard are they to replace?
Zac

If you have stock springs/struts I would also check to see if the strut is blown also. (Push down over the strut and try to make the car "bounce" if it bounces the strut is most likely blown).

Tie rod ends are pretty easy, basically take the wheel off pull the castle nut off the tie rod end then unscrew it (assuming it's the outer tie rod).

To check if it is the tie rod, jack the car up, grab the wheel and pull it in/out and see if their is any movement. Their shouldn't be.

 

[zalock]

pushing down on the car above the strut does not make the car bounce. If this castle nut is the nut in the center of the hub then i have a problem, they are so rusted in place i cant get em to brake free. I tried lasttime i had the wheels off.
Zac

 

[rowlex]

pushing down on the car above the strut does not make the car bounce. If this castle nut is the nut in the center of the hub then i have a problem, they are so rusted in place i cant get em to brake free. I tried lasttime i had the wheels off.
Zac

Ok the castle nut your looking at is for the axle not the tie rod. The one for the tie rod is behind the rotor on the opposite side of the brake caliper (IIRC a 12 or 14mm). When you jack the car up can you shake/pull on the wheel (or better yet put your hands at 9 and 3 o clock and push one one side while pulling on the other and vice versa) if their is movement that means the tie rod is shot.

 

[stunna2o1]

when you figure it out please let me know because i have the same problem

 

[BLUEBLOTCH]

Do a search on tie rod ends, I did those on my old talon. its NOT just a matter of screwing on and off, you have to make sure you get it back to where it is or your alignment it be AWFUL! Me and my brother didnt it and had perfect alignment befroe and after.

Its no bad to replace, $40 or so in parts and a couple hours. Beats $200 the mechanic wanted to charge me.

 

[swerv600]

check lower balljoints. My control arm went bad(curved one), made clunking noises when accelerating, hitting bumps etc. I paid like $250 for the control arm from the dealership because none of the other parts store carry them. Replaced it and noise gone. If thats you problem get an alignment done right after.

 

[BLUEBLOTCH]

check lower balljoints. My control arm went bad(curved one), made clunking noises when accelerating, hitting bumps etc. I paid like $250 for the control arm from the dealership because none of the other parts store carry them. Replaced it and noise gone. If thats you problem get an alignment done right after.

how does your control arm go bad?

Was it upper or lower??

It wasnt just the bushings???
TIA!

 

[Doug99RS]

The control arms can go bad a couple of different ways. There's a bushing at the body end that can dry out, fall apart, or tear. There's also a ball joint that can wear out causing excessive movement up and down or the boot can tear allowing dirt and debris to get in to the joint and wear it out.

The 2g's have a recall on the straight arms (lateral arm) but not the curved one (compression arm). If the boot is not torn but there is grease on the bottom side of the ball joint then it needs to be replaced. Talon owners can get this component replaced, when failing EXACTLY in the manor above, for the life of the vehicle. Mitsu owners are at the dealership's mercy.

The cluncking noise could be coming from a number of things. Loose caliper bolts, loose caliper bracket bolts, loose axle shaft nut, loose lugnuts. You could also have a bad wheel bearing which will frequently also have a roaring noise or clicking noise that will be amplified when you swerve side to side (loading and unloading the bearing). Most of the time a worn tie rod end WON'T exhibit itself in the manor in which you're describing your noise. You have a frequency that changes based on wheel speed. Tie rod ends are affect by steering input and suspension movement. Neither of which operate at a frequency.
Doug