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o2 housing dump?

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it will damage the ears around you ROFL

but no it wont damage anything, think about it... Its only gunna open when the Wastegate opens which is at full boost.

Might wanna check for clearance first (rad fans, alternator. etc..)
 
...

you can't be serious.

But if you are, yes you will damage things. Fire can potentially come out of the O2 housing and light things on fire or melt them. Please be smart about this. you can use an O2 dump that opens only when your wastegate actuates but it is still routed down and out of the way.
What you should consider if you want a serious short exhaust, is to route your exhaust and O2 out let THROUGH PIPING to the driver or passanger side just in front of you wheel well.
this ensures that you won't light your self on fire and allows the hot gasses to be pulled away by the forward motion of the car(wind).
 
LOL i am serious. not for long, just a couple of runs so i can see how restricted my exhaustis. i just replaced a badly cracked masnifol and turbo with a new 2g manifold and a 14b turbo. somone suggested that my cat might be clogged. i figured if i had a huge increase in power off just the o2 than i should redo all my exhaust. can i do it teporarily?
 
I would not even do it once!
If you feel you must, at least put some sort or an extension on there so it dumps UNDER the car instead of on your radiator, oil return, oil filter or whatever else the turbulance under your hood causes to get hit with the exhaust blast.:|
 
I would at least bolt-on a pipe going closer to the ground. If you really like it, just hack your downpipe after the *90 and make sure nothing around it can catch on fire. Do it once, do it right.
 
I would not even do it once!
If you feel you must, at least put some sort or an extension on there so it dumps UNDER the car instead of on your radiator, oil return, oil filter or whatever else the turbulance under your hood causes to get hit with the exhaust blast.:|
 
It sounds likea good idea to you in your head maybe....But its really not. Like really really not! If you want to test without your cat...leave the downpipe on and remove the cat if you can. That way you are still using the downpipe to remove the hot gases and other moving particles to the underside of your car and out with the moving air...if you are looking possibly replace it anyways. IMO I would just buy the new exhaust if you think might anyways...problem solved.
 
ok, so i made a pipe about 10in long and welded somewashers on the sides and bolted it on, it aims the exhaust outa the way down under the car. i drove it.....it hit a little higher boost and then stuttered almost like at a rev limit or feul cut but i ran 20+ psi on my last 95 talon with the stock turbo and verry few mods, stock feul pump and injecotrs and it ran great all day. why wont this car run like that? only diff...this ones automatic :(
 
20psi+t25+stock fuel system does not equal great all day.

I'm assuming you didn't have anything to tune/log with either, otherwise you'd realize it wasn't running so great.
 
everyone tells me the stock wont run 20psi or more. but my first talon ould hit 20-25 everyday all day long. i have vids. i always thought maybee it was just a frankenstien all i had was a turbo xs bov, k&n intake, good plugs. etc. i later added an safc but it hit and held 25psi before the safc. i dont have one now. i would like to get one.
 
Most people would be surprised what boost you could hit with a mbc tightened down or WG line disconnected, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea.

The kicker is that you were likely making less power at 20-25 psi than a safe 15.
 
further day of boredom tinkering resulted in me bypassing my intercooler and sticking my 1g crushed bov ive been dying to try in btween turbo and throttle body. ... it resuted in a pipe poping off but what the hell it was fast as $hit . now i cant wait to get my piping made for the nice front mount i have bolted on my car but not used yet

here is what i got with this ghetto-fab setup:

YouTube - 95 tsi w/ 14b turbo
 
everyone tells me the stock wont run 20psi or more. but my first talon ould hit 20-25 everyday all day long. i have vids. i always thought maybee it was just a frankenstien all i had was a turbo xs bov, k&n intake, good plugs. etc. i later added an safc but it hit and held 25psi before the safc. i dont have one now. i would like to get one.

20psi really, truely means nothing. It's relative. It could be 30 psi. 20 psi with a stock fuel system just means there's a bottleneck somewhere between your compressor and your exhaust. . . Hmmm, where would that be:thumb:. The t25 can't flow more than the stock fuel system can deliver. In fact the stock fuel system can deliver enough to push a 14b to unreliable limits. A t25 only flows 25 lbs/min. A bone stock 4g63 can deliver that flow at 15 psi with a t25. 20 psi means that you make more boost and jeopardized the integrity of your turbo as Matt alluded.

. . .I see that you're running a 14b. Did you even log your injector dutycycle, timing, or even your narrowband o2 voltage, blah, blah, blah? :p Put a 7cm^2 turbine housing on your 14b and report back with a 20 psi at redline log.
 
20 psi to redline? hahahah. ive never boosted to redline. i couldnt see my gauge behind my camera LOL. ive actually never ran one to redline at wot. im afraid of watching ....wait for it...wait for it...BOOOOOOM!!!!!! SSSSSS.
until i am sure of how solid it is. but it was deffinatly "more powerful" and pulled alot harder @ 20psi and 18 psi than it did @ 8-13 psi. so i know its an increase. i dont have a wide band o2 so i dont know if it is efficient boost or not...go figure im not rich. but its comming along. any CONTRUCTIVE criticism?
 
further day of boredom tinkering resulted in me bypassing my intercooler and sticking my 1g crushed bov ive been dying to try in btween turbo and throttle body. ... it resuted in a pipe poping off but what the hell it was fast as $hit . now i cant wait to get my piping made for the nice front mount i have bolted on my car but not used yet

20 psi to redline? hahahah. ive never boosted to redline. i couldnt see my gauge behind my camera LOL. ive actually never ran one to redline at wot. im afraid of watching ....wait for it...wait for it...BOOOOOOM!!!!!! SSSSSS.
until i am sure of how solid it is. but it was deffinatly "more powerful" and pulled alot harder @ 20psi and 18 psi than it did @ 8-13 psi. so i know its an increase. i dont have a wide band o2 so i dont know if it is efficient boost or not...go figure im not rich. but its comming along. any CONTRUCTIVE criticism?

A stock car was made to go to redline, not to run without an intercooler. I'd give you some advice but I think you're more interested in defending your actions.
 
im sory but i think you made a mistake, did u ask about narrow band 02 voltage? thats completly useless. the o2 switches so rapidly at that exhaust flow it doesnt tell you $hit. and you also said duty cycle. that isnt as important as pulse width. id rather know when my injectors are actually spraying and when their told to open. duty cycle is just a calculated percentage of pulse width. my injector pulse width was the same as every other stock dsm ecu with stock injectors at 35-85 mghz.
 
DON'T boost past 15psi. You could flow as much at 20psi as 15 psi at 6K hense have as much power at 4K as one with 15psi at 6K would have. BUT your boost control doesn't dial down the boost by redline to keep the mass flow at the limit.

My advice is to enjoy that 14b. The best bang for your buck you can do for a 2g. Bar none! Get some 550s and a cheap FMIC. Get that 7cm^2 turbine housing I mentioned from a blown 16g turbo or they are sold used separately. You'll have the potential for 340+ crank hp, minimal lag, and minimal down time.

Duty cicle is calculated from pulse width directly.

It is NOT recommended to tune with narrowband o2 sensors like our stock units. But I assure you they do not cycle when you're at a flow exceeding the closed loop (fuel economy) map in the ecu. I was hoping you AT LEAST was looking at something! A dsm narrowband USUALLY hovers around .92-.88 volts at wideopen throttle by redline.

Boosting and not even getting your ecu out of open loop (hense the o2 sensor remains cycling) means that you've not pushed it enough to lead the injectors to 50% flow. Why mention 20 psi with the stock fuel system and fail to mention not running 20 psi to redline ????
 
ok, i have a front mount intercooler(not a cheap one) installed. i just dont have the money to pay the exhaust guy($60) to cut, bend, and weld my intercooler pipe to my car right now. as for the turbine housing from a 16g, is that a big? small? evo...6? will that go onto my turbo without problems,? and some 550's i got that part. ok
 
ok, thanks for the advice. im gonna look for the turbine housing after my intercooler piping. do i just need the housing or do i need the turbine aswell? but im positive i was in closed loop . and the o2 was cycling verry fast i was using a UEI oscilloscope i assure you it was sitching faster at higher temps in closed loop the galvanic battery (o2 sensor) is also AC and goes from like you said -8v to 8v normally.
 
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